Epoxy stuck on paint want to go stronger than MS

new2me

new2me

New member
Joined
Oct 29, 2013
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Bought a used Honda Accord 2007 18,000 miles. After a week or so of ownership, noticed that there is some type of hard glue all down the side of this #######. I got some reducer from the body shop up the street for free (just a little bit) it seems to work a little, but requires much elbow grease and still leaves some behind. The stuff they use is some PPG and really expensive. Anyway I only got a little off and am at my wits end. Goo Gone doesn't touch it. Mineral Spirits will take the smallest strings off, but requires lots of work (ten times the amount of work of the reducer), and I feel like I am tearing up the clear coat getting it off that way (with reducer or MS). Been using an old credit card wrapped in a towel.

So I am ready to pull out the big guns. Yeay or neigh on ACETONE or LACQUER THINNER? Some people says they do it no big deal, others say you'll shoot your eye out kid!

I am looking for something inexpensive and locally available. Yes I searched a lot about this, just want a second opinion. What are my options? This stuff is jack-hammer hard!

I realize most reducers are just acetone, but the PPG stuff has all types of junk in it acetone MEK etc.

You would consider Lacquer thinner stronger than Acetone yes?


IMG_07821.jpg

those aren't scratches its hard glue everywhere all the way down the side

IMG_07811.jpg
sorry bad iphone pics, thanks in advance.

btw I love this forum everyone is so cool. I have learned a lot by lurking on here for a couple months. If you contribute give yourself a pat on the back for teaching me.
 
Why don't you try a heat gun or a steamer and see if you can get it to a gel like form where you can peel it off or scrap with plastic razor if not you may be looking at repainting that section
 
I already tried heating with a hair dryer and scraping. It didn't get any softer. Didn't phase it. I don't have a steamer. I don't want to get the panel too hot.
 
I'll sub to see the solution you find.

Before trying a strong solvent like Acetone or MEK or Lacquer Thinner, I would attempt a good soaking with WD-40. Soak a rag and apply to the area and leave it be for a while. Because it is a vertical surface you may have to be creative to hold the rag but I am sure you can rig something up.

Other possible thing to try would be soaking with gasoline? (never tried myself)

Just my 2 cents!
 
go to a local hobby store and buy a bottle of ca glue de-bonder...i would test on the paint un the bottom lip of the rear bumper first to make sure it is safe for the paint.
 
Dr_Pain said:
I'll sub to see the solution you find.

Before trying a strong solvent like Acetone or MEK or Lacquer Thinner, I would attempt a good soaking with WD-40. Soak a rag and apply to the area and leave it be for a while. Because it is a vertical surface you may have to be creative to hold the rag but I am sure you can rig something up.

Other possible thing to try would be soaking with gasoline? (never tried myself)

Just my 2 cents!
Click to expand...


soak the middle of the towel and tape the towel on all corners to the panel
 
Meg's body solvent looks like it is discontinued. It's not listed on their web site. Shows back ordered on auto geek.
 
Yeah I looked around a bit too it's sold out every where but an alternative would be stoners tarminator, and paint thinner may help but what I would do is tape off the section use the reducer from the auto body shop, and the mineral spirits since you know they work then just replace what ever body color or clear coat that get damage if any
 
If that's marine epoxy it's tough to get rid of. Most solvents won't put a dent in epoxy except for MEK. The problem with mek is how strong and toxic it is.
I had some marine epoxy drip onto my trunk lid in a boat yard once. I had to use mek to remove it. I wet the trunk lid, wiped the epoxy with the mek soaked towel, then thoroughly rinsed the area with hot water. I had to do a light polish on the area afterwards and reapply my lsp.
 
WOW!!
That glue's adhesive has really bonded to your vehicle's paint.
Super Glue-ish type of bonding.

Will be no easy task to remove it without the underlying paint
being affected (damaged) to some extent or another.

I've taken a solvent like Naptha (Zippo lighter fluid) and broken adhesives' bond to paint.
Other petroleum-based solvents (like you want to try) on a soft cloth may do the trick.

Go about it slowly, while being focused on watching the glue/adhesive soften.
Gently wipe. Repeat as necessary.
Hopefully the paint won't soften as well.

Good Luck.


Bob
 
It is a pain to remove for sure. The big issue you have is that the problem paint is likely of comparable durability to the paintwork. Anything that will reliably remove the epoxy is very likely to remove your paint. MEK would likely be a good bet here but I would be extremely cautious as that is one solvent I would never knowingly apply to paintwork.

If you cannot get if softened with some more mundane solvents (acetone possibly but xylene would jump to mind), then I would try mechanical means. Whether that means scraping or sanding, I do not know.
 
here are some more pictures. I have done a lot more research and have decided that I am going to try some xylene and if that doesn't work, then some acetate. I was also considering some goof off (already tried goo gone). I am just wondering if it is even worth the risk of damaging the paint further, when the car is clean its really hard to notice anyway.
IMG_0742.jpg
IMG_0746.jpg
IMG_0753.jpg
yes that is a scratch above, it looks way worse than it is cause I was touching it with my fingers and now the car is dirty.
IMG_0754.jpg
ignore the haze above car is just dirty.
IMG_0755.jpg
 
I ran into a similar situation. Friends Toyota was covered all down the passenger side. He tried paint thinner and gas to no avail and asked me to give it a shot. Tried tarminator and acetone - neither had ANY effect. Took me several hours using my McCulloch steamer and a mf. I had to steam each spot for 30 seconds and rub vigorously with the mf. After 30-45 seconds, the contaminant? was back to original consistency. I offered to continue with the wheel wells, but friend was elated with the results and decided to call it a day. Steam is awesome!
 
I personally would use blend prep and a scuff pad (similar to sanding with 3000). Then a 1500 grit stone on the larger high spots; treat like dust nibs. Then polish out.

My course of action!
 
Re: Epoxy stuck on paint want to go stronger than MS *Update*

Acetone works great!:xyxthumbs:

Xylene did not work for me, all it did was help me dull the clear coat in an inconspicuous area. (probably also from too much rubbing)

well the Xylene wasn't doing anything for me. So I mustered some balls and tried a spot on a wheel with acetone, then went on to try a metal body panel (the rear door). My process is damp a micro fiber with acetone, then put on epoxy for about 6 seconds or so, then rub a small bit, then scrape lightly with card, then wipe off epoxy crumbs and repeat.

The paint doesn't seem to mar or fade at all, course I am not leaving it on for an extended period of time, and the acetone flashes at a medium fast pace, after I put it on, it flashes quick and before you know it, there is none left on your rag either.

Thank you all for all of your input and replies.


Even though the acetone works, this is still a tedious process.

Once I get some more time on my hands, I will eventually take it all off, clay the car then wax, maybe seal too.

start
IMG_0930.jpg


after some dwell time 6 seconds or so, then light scraping with a plastic card.
IMG_0931.jpg


then done.
IMG_0932.jpg
 
I am happy to hear you found a product, and process that will work for you, and yes it may be a hassle/pain but it's your baby
So take that time, and put that love, and nurture into the process cause at the end both of you will be happy, and lastly thanks for keeping us posted
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top