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So the ONRWW and duragloss are holding up ? I think the AIOs really don’t last the oils or whatever fillers they have that bead come off with any sort of water and soap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fastest would be duragloss rinseless with the aquawax already in it. Or the optimum rinseless wash and wax. Both are rinseless products with protection some say ample enough if used on a regular basis Let’s face it a multi bucket hose wash takes time Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t get it either. It’s like blurring the license plate of their own car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks amazing bro Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would probably just go to an ONR with OCW regimen Clay with the OCW and keep the car clean with big red sponge and ONR with Optimun car wax every other wash or so Really won’t get easier than that unless you just take it to a car wash Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

UFF is great especially for the $ and ease of use. I wouldn’t be afraid to try to push it for many months. There is no modern Klasse. They all apply that same way if they are the same type of product. You need to figure out your wants. Way easier to use a paint cleaner like megs cleaner wax...

I plasti dipped some wheels for winter. Worked great. Easy to touch up after a couple years too. When I sold the wheel/tire set they still looked fine. I used it because the wheels I was using were not perfect and the plastic dip covered nicely and gave a new look. I wouldn’t plasti dip the...

Oils don’t really last from the 3m finishing stuff. Looks great initially though The durable stuff doesn’t typically have an overly wet oily look so it will actually tone down the gloss. Usually the highest point of gloss on your paint (as read by a gloss meter) is when it’s freshly polished...

The pump to make pressure first I ever saw of that was dri wash n guard it was in the 90s here in the states that it was being pushed on the car show scene. Before Zaino was in the Midwest anyways. Glare just never took off here. Even Honda and Yamaha had it relabeled for there own “polish”...

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First one looks like a rust bloom spot. Should come off with an AIO, iron remover, clay etc. Second one hard to tell may take a bit of polishing even compound to remove Hopefully you will get it handled with out breaking the bank or your sanity Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I week or two worth of beading and or real protection would make this a great product as someone could merely use this for everything in one for exterior Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Considering it’s 135 for the coating itself that’s a pretty great deal. Worth a shot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed with Eldo. Clay then use PowerLock since it seems you talked yourself into it as a top runner I would agree on the every 3 months new sealant application as well A nice gentle weekly wash is better than a heavy every 2 week wash. More work but it’s about keeping contaminants off the car...

You know what even if it does have some sort of magic durable fillers as long as the car looks great for long time it doesn’t matter to most Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man that thing looks good bro Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed on the Gyeon leather cleaner. Pulls dirt off you didn’t know existed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More of a question for CG don’t think it’s a popular product around here. You get into the detailing marketing speak of “up to” duration of protection If you take your seat and clean it with some APC then protect half and leave the other half unprotected and spray some water on the protected...

Lots of waterless solution and lots of good quality towels it can be done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They used to send out those small trial packs of Griot’s and stuff too as parts of the boxes. Like really those are just freebies not actual value Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk