The first one looks like an iron partical that has oxidized during a long time. When you use an iron remover on that kind of hard embedded iron partical. You can need to be doing several application of it. If it starts to bleed let it dwell for as long as possible and then rinse it off. Dry it and apply again and if it still bleeds you let dwell and not so long so it dries. Iron remover reacts on the oxidized part of the iron partical. That is why I recommend several applications. So the rust (oxidized iron) gets desolved. If you go to soon with the following claying you rip it out of the paint. And if to much of the oxidized iron is left you damage the clearcoat more than needs to be done. Many and my self included think that one application is enough to get it out. And many times even if you clay it it still is embedded so hard that it don't gets out of the paint. So an easy way is to apply the iron remover and see if you still get the bleeding from it. That is also what makes the difference with iron removers in how concentrated they are. The Carpro IronX is known for be very effective and is often worth what you getting from it.
The other pictures seems to be a mix of tree sap and tar spots from what I can see. And tree sap can be doing etching on the paint. A tar remover and see where it gets you. Apply on dry paint is the most effective. And sometimes a lightly aggitations with a mf towel or mf sponge gets it more effective. The same with the aggitations when you have applyied the iron remover a couple of times before you you do it. Then move on to clay the paint and polishing it.
And as long as the chemicals don't dry on the paint and you rinse them off thoroughly and even a wash after. You are going to be fine.
/Tony
