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I hear you. I'm washing my cars today and I'll give your method a try.

I like that method. It makes more sense than using Reload an hour after application. I have standard Cquartz on my DD and I am so impressed I plan to coat my "good" car. I never thought I would be a coating advocate.

I pressure rinse, foam, wash mitt, and then pressure rinse. I have to be in a cool spot in the shade though or the soap dries too fast. Sometimes I just spray a little more foam if an area is drying too fast. Why waste all that wonderful foam lubricant by rinsing before going to a TBM?

How long do you wait between coats? Do you use reload for both coats?

I don't think you'll ever get 150 scratches out without going through the CC at the very least. I think it's going to need to be re-clear coated.

Did you use Reload during your application? I am still trying to find out if the Reload step is really necessary.

It depended on how the cannon was adjusted. I actually am getting just as much foam using diluted soap and a different cannon adjustment. With full strength and the cannon knob turned a half turn from full CCW I could certainly get a mountain of foam. You couldn't even tell what kind of car it was!

I used a similar approach to Setec only I just went with two spigots a hard and a soft. The hard water spots no matter how I dry the car. The softened water offers a spotless rinse every time. If you have hard water you will probably end up with a water softener at some point. It sure beats...

So about a 10:1 ratio. I'm using Optimum Car Wash right now, but I'm always trying something new. At a 10:1 ratio though my current gallon will last me for years.

What do you use for a dilution ratio with your soap cannon? Dummy me was using no dilution at all and realized this probably wasn't right.

For those of you who have used CQUK is the Reload really necessary if the vehicle is kept dry during cure?

Leaf blowers are designed to be used outside in potentially wet environments. I wouldn't worry about getting electrocuted.

Then again, you could always go with a chamois. ;-)

UC is a SMAT just like 105. I got frustrated with the amount of time it was taking me to compound with a 7424 so I bought a Flex 3401, and I'm pretty happy with it. I still break out the rotary if the scratches are deep enough to warrant using it.

Thank you. That's exactly what I was looking for. Nice post and great job on the Bimmer!

Right now I have Cquartz on my DD and i like it. Just because I like to try new stuff I was thinking about giving PBL paint coating a shot next. I have the wheel coating on my wheels and the glass coating on my windshield and it seems like good stuff. I am having a hard time finding any posts on...

According to Carpro Cquartz UK was developed for cooler temperatures and yet I see more references to it than regular Cquartz. I have Cquartz on my DD and have no complaints. Is there a reason so many of you prefer Cquartz UK over the standard Cquartz?

Absolutely, Bob. No LSP will ever make a poorly prepped car pop. I've tried for years to no avail. Once you have the shine the LSP keeps it that way. Jeff

I bicycle too, but you have to use your head. The road I take to leave work is narrow, curvy, hilly, and loaded with blind spots. When work lets out it's packed with traffic by people who are in a hurry to get home. About a year ago I used to see the same bicyclist each night riding a bit wobbly...

Never mind, I found DUB.