06 G35 Oxidation - What's needed?

V

vertico

New member
Joined
Nov 14, 2014
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
I have a 2006 Infiniti G35 that oddly has medium oxidation on one side of the hood and along both A pillars. The rest of the car is in pretty good condition but with faint swirls.

I am new to paint care but do know that I am going to need a DA.

Can you point me into the right direction as to what pads/compounds/polishes/sealants or waxes that I should use to restore my oxidized panels and what to use on the remainder of the car?

I am mechanically inclined just a bit confused on what to use and when.
I've looked through some of the sticky's but can't seem to locate any solid info on removing oxidation with a DA so any help or advise is greatly appreciated.

Thank You!
 
:welcome: to AGO! :welcome:

First, if you're close to another member you might be able to get some up close, and personal help. :dblthumb2:

As you can see in my avatar, I have a 06 G35 as well. :D

Oxidation isn't a problem for any DA. Although it's odd that you have it. May be some sort of solvent based product that got wiped/smeared on the area you are having problems with perhaps?

I'm thinking it may actually be some sort of airborne contamination that you picked up while driving, being as it's on only one side of the hood AND the A-pillars. :dunno:

All of the INFINITI paints are base/clear coat so that's the good news. The bad news is it's not the hardest paint out there. In fact, my red one is so darned soft it you friggin' LOOK at it funny it'll swirl!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek:

When you say "faint swirls" that makes me think how mine looks after I've spent 3 days buffing and sealing it then washed it ONCE. I've actually never seen a G35 with "faint swirls", moreover they are generally a swirled mess. ;)

Now if you have a metallic color (which MOST are) they hide swirls better. :xyxthumbs:


So.... first I guess we talk about washing.
You are doing 2-bucket method, right? ;) If not, GET TWO BUCKETS. :)
(And a clean, fresh, microfiber wash mitt.)

Paint decontamination. You ABSOLUTELY need to decon the paint. Be that a fine grade clay, or something along the lines of the rubber systems like Nanoskin, mitts, towels, etc.

Wash it good, really good. Then throw a light bit of soapy water on one surface at a time and go at it with your 'decon' system of choice. Honestly, the newer rubber based systems are pricy, but considering how long they last, and the FANTASTIC JOB they do, they are a bargain! (Not to mention if you drop one you can just wash it off and keep using it, where if you drop clay it's instantly thrown in the trash.)

So once you've thoroughly decon'ed the thing and gone over it again with a good light wash/rinse you're ready.


If you have a DA like the Porter Cable or Griots Garage that's a start.
Get the 5" backing plate as that'll be large enough, yet either of the machines will handle them no problem. Plus.... the smaller 5½" pads are MUCH less expensive than the 6½" pads.:dblthumb2:

Next would be pads, you'll need Lake Country orange and white AT THE VERY LEAST, (and 3~4 of both). Wouldn't hurt to have black and blue as well.

You can start doing your "test sections" with an over the counter compound like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and the white pad to see if that'll correct it where you want it. If not.... move to the orange pad. Afterwards you'll use the white pad (and then the blue one) with Ultimate Polish to finish it down.

I'm not so sure though that you'll get the correction that you need, (and the car deserves) with UC. :dunno:

Another alternative is Meguiar's 101 which will REALLY cut that paint well while not leaving it completely full of micromarring (if you're careful). For the timid it's not!

Easier to work with however would be Menzerna FG400 and then try a "TEST SECTION" (as mentioned above) with both pads to see which one does the job without doing too much. Working with FG400 is a breeze, and on hard paints it'll literally finish "LSP" (sealant) ready. (Not so much on softer INFINITI paints, but it's darned close.)

After the FG400 you can go to the white or black pad and start working down SF4000 then switch to the blue pad primed with SF4000 and it'll REALLY pop!

From there, two choices. Grab either Menzerna Power Lock *or* Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. I've used both, WG is AMAZING! If you want to try one you can get locally, grab Meguiar's M21 2.0 as it's a great sealant in it's own right. I use it on more vehicles than the first two, (although WG is IMO a better sealant).

You CAN however top M21 2.0 with Meguiar's #26 Yellow Wax (liquid) which is also a sealant, AND will give you a depth and clarity that'll make you sit back and just go "HOOOLLLLEEEE Moses!!!!".

Again.... WELCOME to AGO! :D
 
Pictures Please

Include close-UPS and sun shots
 
Cardaddy pretty much summed it up.

You are going to get 100 different answers on product/pad combos. For me when it comes to paint correcting i choose none other then wolfgang products and lake country pads. Since youre new to polishing thats what id recommend because in my experience wolfgang products are pretty fail proof especially for new comers. Ill compile my recommendation for a shopping list.

Nanoskin (fine) sponge
Portercable Wolfgang kit (comes with total swirl remover and finishing glaze)
Wolfgang uber compound
Lake country 5.5" flat pads in orange white and black (3 each)
5" backing plate


Do a test spot first though. Also if you have a picture that would really help because my definition of oxidation might be different then yours. For all I know it could be clear coat failure.
 
Thanks for the info guys!

Cardaddy, not only do we share G35's but also I am North of Atlanta ;-)

Mine is a Diamond Graphite 6MT Coupe.

I did find out after I purchased it (which was 6 years ago now) that it had been in an accident prior but it wasn't reported until after I purchased it!

I still find it odd that the hood only has an issue on one side. The panels that I suspect were replaced however look fine.
Yes I do not have the eye yet to determine how bad swirls are. My swirls may be worse than I am letting on.

The weather is gloomy here so tonight i'll try to get some pics in the garage of the damage.

This is great info, more than I expected ;-)
I'll get some pics posted and follow up from there.
 
vertico said:
Thanks for the info guys!

Cardaddy, not only do we share G35's but also I am North of Atlanta ;-)

Mine is a Diamond Graphite 6MT Coupe.

I did find out after I purchased it (which was 6 years ago now) that it had been in an accident prior but it wasn't reported until after I purchased it!

I still find it odd that the hood only has an issue on one side. The panels that I suspect were replaced however look fine.
Yes I do not have the eye yet to determine how bad swirls are. My swirls may be worse than I am letting on.

The weather is gloomy here so tonight i'll try to get some pics in the garage of the damage.

This is great info, more than I expected ;-)
I'll get some pics posted and follow up from there.
Click to expand...

Tell ya what... PM me and I'll give ya' my cell #.

I'm literally 30 minutes south of downtown.

If you can come down on a Friday or Saturday we (you/me) might just be able to make it happen. :) (Or at least get you started off on the right foot.):thumbup:

FWIW CarMomma started taking off Fridays through the end of the year a fewweeks back. ( Gives me a bit more help lately.) :D

Orrrrr there is a guy in Conyers that I've worked with, that puts up a lot of show & shines that'll be more than happy to relieve ya' of a grand or so. ;)
 
Thanks for the offer Cardaddy but due to lack of free time and a crazy schedule I think I'll be tackling this one myself. Plus it gives me an excuse to buy absolutely everything I need. :xyxthumbs:

Posting pics of the damage, let me know if this is indeed oxidation (pretty sure it is).
The last pic is of the left side of the hood which you can see is in considerably better condition than the right.

Sorry I could only get garage pics under LED lighting for now.
 
Walking out the door and I'll give you a better reply later. But, that hood just looks like massive amount of swirls which is what I expected.

The top of that a pillar next to the sunroof however it is pretty bad clear coat failure. Most likely from YEARS of abuse and being parked in the Sun.... and never EVER having a proper sealant put on it!

Offer still stands though... buy what you want, or try a few here. I've got the hundred different pads then you can figure out what it is you need from there.
 
OK, back now and have had a chance to look at the photos on my laptop (rather than my phone). It's going to be a lot of work, and boy does it look like it's had a hard life. :dunno:

Here's what the A pillar and roof *should* look like.
IMG_05765.JPG

IMG_06162.JPG



What concerns me about the CC failure is just HOW CAREFUL you need to be with it. :eek:

I'd treat it like an old, dry, single stage at first. Take some Meguiar's #7 and apply it by hand with a foam applicator, let it sit, (not in the sun) for as long as you can. (Although with it freaking BELOW FREEZING around here lately, the sun might be a good thing!:dblthumb2: Remove it with a clean foam pad, then repeat. You can buff it with a black (or maybe white) 4" pad if your careful. Once the #7 has put some moisture back into the paint you might be able to clean it up with Megs Ultimate Polish. Again, blue/black/white pads at the most.

Really hard to say 'exactly' what you'll need as it's a trial and (not exactly error) process. Which is why I ended up with a couple (or 3) dozen :rolleyes: different compounds and polishes sitting around the house. :laughing:

The hood I think will clean up, but BOY is it hurting!
Something tells me the entire car looks like that too. It's gonna' take some time for sure.
I'd just want to be really careful and don't try to go too far, too fast. Then there's just how much correction you really want. Might do a little and fill it with a glaze and be fine. Just need to keep going back at it on a maintenance schedule of sorts. Long as it's waxed (well sealed actually as hardly anyone actually uses a REAL (as in totally) carnauba wax anymore) it should be fine for a couple months at a time. (The glaze will look good, but it'll wash off, and out of the swirls in about 2 washes however.)

I mentioned Friday or Saturday as that's when I'm not by myself. Now if you want to get some 'hands on' and a bit of on-the-job training..... ;) I'm sure we could work it out anytime during the week. Don't mind showing you a few techniques and/or products. Might make it a bit easier to get a handle on it down the road.
** Wouldn't be the first one to drop by 'Casa De CarDaddy' for 12~17 hours.** :)
Ask MitchLiving (he drove from Athens) when he came down. (And didn't leave till almost sunrise the NEXT FRIGGIN DAY!) :rolleyes:

OTOH, you might like to see a few of the bazillion microfibers sitting around here. ;) :buffing:

I just need a little lead time to figure out my schedule. (Been going to physical therapy twice a week lately, that combined with THREE different doctor appointments and an MRI coming in the next 2 weeks and I'm a busy boy.) Just head down towards Exit 224~222 on 75 and take a Left and you're almost here. :dblthumb2:
 
This is going to be a tough one.... the pictures of the hood almost look like the early stages of CC failure... Be sure that this is in fact just oxidation prior to really diving deep into buffing out the paint.

It's unfortunate but a lot of 05-06 nissan's and infiniti's (specifically altima, maxima, and G35's) have an "internet" known issue with the clear coat. I say internet because if you search you will find a ton of consumers complaining about it, but Nissan has done nothing to help.

I'd take up the offer from Cardaddy for some assistance just to have some experienced eyes on the problem prior to jumping into this one alone. :dblthumb2:
 
Can say I'm familiar with "Opticolor restoration kit". OTOH It looks like you did pretty well there.:thumbup:

I would have taken those headlights out to work them though. ;) Its really not hard at all. You jack up one side and turn the wheel all the way in one direction, loosen a couple of the screws for the inner fender well and pull the inner fender well back then you can reach up inside of there and get to the bolts for the headlights. ;)

They're really pretty easy to remove overall. I've had mine out twice to change out the fog light bulbd and once you do it first time... it's really not that hard next time around. :)

The hard part is if you have the 19" wheels, which SERIOUSLY puts a cramp on available space. (Without removing them of course.) And YEP, I'm too stubborn to remove them! :laughing: (Although without the wheels in the way the lights can come out in literally minutes.):thumbup:
 
Thanks Cardaddy,
Yes I do indeed have the 19" rims and due to time and laziness didn't feel like pulling the lights out in order to do the job. Taping off the lights was not difficult and application was easy due to being all by hand. Step 1 I had a type of polish that I used a microfiber to rub on the lens which stripped off all of the oxidation. I repeated that step to ensure I got well around the edges and then there was a final step in which I had a can of a clear coat type sealant to protect the lens.

I believe this kit should be long lasting but only time will tell. Anything else I can do to protect the lens from future damage?

Also to tap on the paint issue a little I plan to purchase the following
Griots DA Wolfgang Combo *Includes Swirl Remover and Finishing Glaze
Lake Country 5" Backing Plate
Lake Country Orange Pad x3
Lake Country White Pad x3
Lake Country Blue Pad x3
Wolfgang Uber Compound
Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Car Wax
Nanoskin fine sponge

Anything else I should consider or need?
 
Forgot to add Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant

I see you mentioned this and I am assuming a sealant like this will prevent further damage better than a wax alone?
 
vertico said:
Thanks Cardaddy,
Yes I do indeed have the 19" rims and due to time and laziness didn't feel like pulling the lights out in order to do the job. Taping off the lights was not difficult and application was easy due to being all by hand. Step 1 I had a type of polish that I used a microfiber to rub on the lens which stripped off all of the oxidation. I repeated that step to ensure I got well around the edges and then there was a final step in which I had a can of a clear coat type sealant to protect the lens.

I believe this kit should be long lasting but only time will tell. Anything else I can do to protect the lens from future damage?

Also to tap on the paint issue a little I plan to purchase the following
Griots DA Wolfgang Combo *Includes Swirl Remover and Finishing Glaze
Lake Country 5" Backing Plate
Lake Country Orange Pad x3
Lake Country White Pad x3
Lake Country Blue Pad x3
Wolfgang Uber Compound
Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Car Wax
Nanoskin fine sponge

Anything else I should consider or need?
Click to expand...

That's a pretty good list. :xyxthumbs:

Considering how bad your paint is, I'd *STILL* get Meguiar's #7 and go over your paint really carefully with the blue pad, leaving it on for a while, then removing it. From there you can switch to the white pad and do it all again. Meguiar's #7 is a pure polish and will do a lot to help the overall condition of your paint.

Just be REALLY careful buffing those A,B, even C pillars. The tops of the A pillars looked really iffy. Something tells me the roof (perhaps along the leading edge) is in similar shape.

What else to get?


Lots, and LOTS of Meguiar's spray bottles. You can get 6 for $17.99 (less any discount... say 15%).
Meguiar's Detailing Spray Bottles 6 Pack- Your Choice!


Don't forget brushes.

There are the small and large Daytona brushes (Speedmaster Combo), as well as AT LEAST the large and medium Wheel Woolies. Might as well get the Mothers long handle brushes while you're at it. ;) Then you'll do good to pick up a few more brushes. Something like the Carrand brushes will do. Their Deluxe Interior Brush is great for carpets, but also is great for tires!:props:
Of course they have a tire brush, and then there is their 2-pack of Brush & Shine Tire Dressing Applicators. Switch to those and you'll never go back to the times of messy foam tire shine applicators. :)

How about cleaning around your lug nuts? This T handle foam unit is pretty handy. (Plus it has a notch where you can hang it on the side of your bucket.) :D

Between this puppy and a boars hair brush you'll be able to get anything out there done. :xyxthumbs:

And I take it you went and check out the towel sites? ;) Nothing wrong with 20~30 of each of your favorites.:props:
 
First, to the OP, welcome to the forum and the (potential) addiction :xyxthumbs:

I don't want to sound unreasonable, but take CarDaddy up on his offer! He is a master at the craft and I'll guarantee you'll get more out of an hour or two spent with him in terms of the learning curve than hours and hours of reading here. He's made you a great offer!

Anywho...good luck and let's see the results!
 
rms64 said:
First, to the OP, welcome to the forum and the (potential) addiction :xyxthumbs:

I don't want to sound unreasonable, but take CarDaddy up on his offer! He is a master at the craft and I'll guarantee you'll get more out of an hour or two spent with him in terms of the learning curve than hours and hours of reading here. He's made you a great offer!

Anywho...good luck and let's see the results!
Click to expand...

Rob..... thank you, I mean seriously..... thank for the kind words.:cheers:

With the week I've had I'll take what I can get dude. :)
(Someone we ended up with yet another thread closed down after being attacked (yes again):rolleyes: by a local detailer with a grudge.) :argue:

It is really nice however to know that others appreciate my efforts. :props:

I certainly don't pretend to know everything there is to know about detailing (or anything else for that matter) :laughing: ..... (although I'm sure we've all run across those that believe THEY do, (yet won't share that 'secret process' no matter who you are....) wink wink.... nod nod).:poke:

At the end of the day..... Lord willing.... I will be able to seek out knowledge and techniques from those that are willing to share. And hopefully I will be able to practice what I know, and what I've learned, then share what I can along the way.

I used to be a Scout Master and we always would tell our pack when going out camping... "Try to leave it better than you found it." If we could all do that here, then all the effort, tired eyes, sore backs, and hours spent typing are all worth it. :D

Again, thanks Rob for the kind words.:dblthumb2:
 
Yes! I forgot to mention that i have already purchased a few things Meguiars #7 included :-)

I now have that along with the nanoskin fine sponge, a TON of microbiber towels (those have already come in handy!) meguiars microfiber wash mit. I probably mentioned some of that already.

I had two buckets but i recently moved to a new house and somehow lost them in the move!? I thought people were crazy when they say stuff is lost in a move but i am missing two large buckets, looked everywhere!

Anyways, i am out of town right now for at least the next two weeks so it will be some time before i'll be able to update this.

I will start as you say with the #7 to rejuvenate the spots on the hood.

I soon will be purchasing the Griots and the wolfgang selection. A little sad i missed the no exclusions 15% off sale the other day on the DA. Hopefully tomorrow will reveal a similar special?? Will see!

Thanks for the t handle recommendation. Lugnuts are always a challenge! I do indeed have the 19" rims which is one part of the reason i didn't want to remove the headlights ;-) taping it off was easy enough. It considered raising the hood to get it out of the way but it would have blocked my light so i taped it off and went to town. I showed my results to a few people at work that had tried other headlight restoration kits and they said they didnt get results nearly ad good as mine!

One question on that is there anything i can do further on the headlights to prevent oxidation or hazing? The last step of the opti color is a permanent (or so called) clear coat. Is that enough and will it last?

Anyways, I'll follow up when i get back from a show next week!

Thanks cardaddy for the advice and recommendations. I really appreciate it ;)

One last comment, you nailed it when you mentioned the car likely sits in the sun. At night its in the garage but it sits in the hot Georgia sun for 9+ hours a day in the summertime in a wide open parking lot. I liked my last job when we had a parking deck for multiple reasons!
 
I'm not sure why but the new Meguiar's Microfiber Polish (not the finishing wax) works amazing on oxidation removal.

Sent from my N9810 using AG Online
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
I'm not sure why but the new Meguiar's Microfiber Polish (not the finishing wax) works amazing on oxidation removal.

Sent from my N9810 using AG Online
Click to expand...


Interesting, do you get good results using it with a foam pad or just with the microfibers?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top