1 step vs 2 step, is there any easy way to tell what is needed for my car?

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jam3s121

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I have a 07 mazda 3 true red hatchback, it has relatively low mileage (55k) and I believe the paint work is OK condition. It has light to medium swirl marks on it and I really want to remove them. Right now in my head I'm planning on getting a harbor freight or porter cable 7424xp DA.

I'm just totally lost as to what products I should try or use. Right now I wash my car with chemical guys/meguirs stuff but it has not been paint corrected. I clayed it with a mild clay about 4 months ago and I plan to go back over it with something slightly stronger to make the paintwork feel smoother.

Ideally I would like to do a 1 step process with something like chemical guys VSS (or comparable product) but I'm not really sure how much correcting it can do.. I just know I don't have a garage and my driveway is all rocks/dirt so 2 steps on my first go ahead might take me hours to do and it would become tedious to make sure there isn't any fine dirt/sand on my car while polishing it. I could go to my girlfriends but still, I can't occupy the small driveway for more than 5-7 hours max.


Obviously if I go with 1 or 2 step I also need some type of liquid wax to apply afterwards, or do I use sealant?

thanks.
 
I can't tell you what to buy, but, I would stay away from Chemical Guys and look at Meguiar's or if your wallet allows, look at the high-end stuff like BlackFire etc.
Also, Collinite is great stuff at a super price.
 
Meguiars
-ultimate compound
-ultimate polish.
-ultimate paste wax
-maintain with ultimate spray wax

can get all the above over the counter and easy to use ;)
 
I would agree with the Meguiar's Ultimate line

How you know what steps to do is do a test spot. Try just the polish on a 2x2 area and see if you get the results youre hoping for. If not try the compound then check if the defects are gone. If so follow up with the polish.
 
Due to your situation a good AIO might be the answer. Menzerna & Wolfgang make a quality AIO that can be used with the PC DA you are considering. Historically I was not a fan of AIO's but this new lineup produces great results. It will make your life easy and can be done a couple times a year to keep your car looking awesome. Combine these with good 2bucket or rinsless wash technique and you should be good to go.

Wolfgang Uber All In One, cleaner wax, all in one polish wax
Menzerna 3 in 1 Cut, Gloss & Wax
Or
3D HD Speed 32 oz.
 
You have a very soft clear like just about every Mazda i have seen. A good AIO, or Menzerna 2500/ 4000 combo. Look into a package from AG with the PC or Griots Garage 6" you wont regret either of those machines at all
 
In my opinion you cannot make any assumptions about what process is needed (1 step, 2 step, which pads/compounds etc) until you have conducted a test spot to determine what works best.

Even if paint hardness on certain models was consistent, which it isn't, you still have the variable of how DEEP into the clear the damage on YOUR car is.

'Generally' Mazdas will have softer paint, but here is a True Red Mazda 3 I detailed that needed some fairly heavy hitting to rectify, which goes completely against the perception of soft paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/86973-true-red-mazda-3-mps-detailed-lawrence.html

I have not used the Chemical guys polishes, so can't comment on them, and am a huge Menzerna fan so will naturally recommend something like

FG400 - for heavy cutting
PF2500 - for medium cutting
SF4000 - for light polishing/finishing

With the selection of the above polishes, you could adjust how much cutting you need in order to remove only enough paint to rid it of the damage, and no more.

You may be able to use any of the above as a 1-step, although on red, I would probably wanna follow the initial step (be it FG400 or PF2500) with SF4000 to restore clarity to the paint by removing any hazing the initial compounding steps introduced.
 
I would emphatically recommend the PC over the Harbor Frieght DA!

I would also recommend an AIO. Yes, all in ones arent better at everything, but its a matter of making your life easy and getting the best results with the least amount of effort. I have used Wolfgang Uber AIO and it is excellent.
 
Jaretr1 said:
I would emphatically recommend the PC over the Harbor Frieght DA!

I would also recommend an AIO. Yes, all in ones aren't better at everything, but its a matter of making your life easy and getting the best results with the least amount of effort. I have used Wolfgang Uber AIO and it is excellent.
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Why's that?

When I buy my DA do I need to buy a backing plate separate? Should I get 5inch or 6inch?

I was suggesting chemical guys stuff because thats what I'm familiar with.

I am highly considering an aio still, but I should probably plan to hit the car with some paste or liquid wax afterwards like right?
 
jam3s121 said:
Why's that?

When I buy my DA do I need to buy a backing plate separate? Should I get 5inch or 6inch?

I was suggesting chemical guys stuff because thats what I'm familiar with.

I am highly considering an aio still, but I should probably plan to hit the car with some paste or liquid wax afterwards like right?
Click to expand...

The purpose of an AIO is to eliminate the LSP step. Just use the AIO and call it a day. I really believe that keeping it simple is the best route to success and happiness.
 
Ebg18t said:
The purpose of an AIO is to eliminate the LSP step. Just use the AIO and call it a day. I really believe that keeping it simple is the best route to success and happiness.
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The car is 8 years old with 55k miles and never been polished. Doubt if an AIO will do the correction.
 
Rsurfer said:
The car is 8 years old with 55k miles and never been polished. Doubt if an AIO will do the correction.
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If someone has never done anything with it 8 years & 55k miles do you really think they are all of a sudden looking for a show car finish? An quality AIO with reset able correction ability will make a very noticeable difference compared to its current state.

OP - here is a link to read about the Menzerna AIO: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...1-review-black-fiat-punto-tato-technique.html
 
Rsurfer said:
The car is 8 years old with 55k miles and never been polished. Doubt if an AIO will do the correction.
Click to expand...


See my post on the black 2003 Thunderbird I just did that had 56k on it and had never been polished. Meguiar's D151 made a BIG difference on that car. It wasnt 100% but it was better than 65% easy.
 
I also do not have a garage as I live in an apartment. I use the 6 inch Harbor Freight DA with a 5 inch backing plate with good results for a hobbyist with a limited budget. I used the Pinnacle XMT 360 AIO on my mother-in-laws car which has only ever been waxed before me and a friends car that had virtually never been touched since he got the thing. I had good results with the Pinnacle XMT 360 and as a home user it is a product I will personally keep using. Also, you can use it in the sun which is a plus for me. Even though it cleans I still clay before applying and would recommend you do the same.

I like it because it creates little dust and you use it until it disappears and then move on to the next section. Plus you don't have to use a LSP. Even though you don't need a LSP I still top it with a good wax like Meg's NXT 2.0, because I already had some, to help get longer life and a little more shine. I also have Duragloss PBA and #105 which I was able to find over-the-counter at a great price, it is also easy to apply and lasts a long time. If you want a topper that lasts a long time you can't go wrong with Collinite Super DoubleCoat. When I get my wife's care ready for the winter this year I am going to apply the Duragloss PBA/105 and top it with the Super DoubleCoat.

Just remember don't expect miracles from an AIO. If you want to fully correct your paint you will need to compound (possibly even using a heavy duty swirl remover and aggressive pad), polish and seal/wax/coat. Determine what you are hoping to achieve and go from there to determine what products you will need.
 
Re: 1 step vs 2 step, is there any easy way to tell what is needed for my car?



lawrenceSA said:
...you cannot make any assumptions about what process is needed (1 step, 2 step, which pads/compounds etc) until you have conducted a test spot...
Click to expand...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...stions/24043-test-spot-story-behind-term.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...722-car-detailing-articles-mike-phillips.html
 
Ebg18t said:
If someone has never done anything with it 8 years & 55k miles do you really think they are all of a sudden looking for a show car finish? An quality AIO with reset able correction ability will make a very noticeable difference compared to its current state.

OP - here is a link to read about the Menzerna AIO: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...1-review-black-fiat-punto-tato-technique.html[/QUOTE



Why not just use Nu Finish. Does he really need a quality AIO as you put it!! Oh, and he will still get a very noticeable difference compared to it's current state at half the price.
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