1971 Dodge Coronet Original Paint Extreme Makeover with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze

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1971 Dodge Coronet Original Paint Extreme Makeover with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze


At my September 2012 Detailing Boot Camp Class, one of my students asked me about my article on how to restore antique and original single stage paint. He has a number of old Dodge's and actually drove one to my class.

I explained to him the technique for rubbing-out oxidized, old brittle single stage paint using a product that's been around for single stage paints since the Model T and he followed my directions and below are the results.

Here's what Craig wrote to me in an e-mail...

Craig Parker said:
Hi Mike, I finished the Coronet today around 6:30 pm. Included are some before and after photos.

I have others, but these show the dramatic before and after, this is my first single stage paint correction, I learned a lot, so glad that I was able to attend your class in Sept this car was a lot of work, and all work took place at Wright Patterson AFB in Ohio.

Thanks Mike!


Before

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After

1971_Dodge_Single_Stage_011.jpg


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1971_Dodge_Single_Stage_013.jpg


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Nice work Craig!



:)
 
Here's the class Craig attended, note the cool cars I use for training purposes as I like to make my classes both educational and also fun and memorable...


Pictures & Comments from September 2012 Detailing Boot Camp



Here's Craig learning the way of the Flex 3401 on a 1940 Ford Coupe...

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Here's Craig learning the way of the rotary buffer on a 1966 Corvette...

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Craig Parker aka Craig Parker!
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Detailing Bootcamp Classes
My next class coming up is May 4th and 5th and again I'll have a number of cool cars here to work on plus some modern cars so you get a wide range of training experiences.

Register for the May 4th & 5th Detailing Bootcamp Class

These classes will fill up fast so clear your schedule and reserve your seat: 1-800-869-3011


:xyxthumbs:
 
If you ever have the chance to restore the original single stage paint on a "Barn Find" or any other classic or SIV, which stands for Special Interest Vehicle, please read my article before you start for a few tips and techniques that will help you to preserve and revitalize the old, dried-out and brittle paint.


The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints


NonAbrasiveMethod012.jpg





In most cases, you only get one shot and restoring, antique single stage paint and if it's important to you to preserve the originality of the car, the #7 treatment is your best shot at success...


:xyxthumbs:
 
Very nice car. The paint color is a bit interesting. I wonder what the color is.
 
This car brings back so much memories. It was my first car I purchased after H.S. !!! Many Many moons ago.
 
I checked an online source - stock colors:

Citron Yella
Medium Green Metallic
Moss Green Metallic
Green Gp - probably not it
 
Before Craig started this project he called me at work to discuss, one of the things I discussed with him was the IMPORTANCE of getting GREAT BEFORE SHOTS.

You have to get the "before" shots BEFORE you start to work on oxidized, single stage paint or you'll,

A: Never get the chance again (because you can't go back in time)

B: If you start to polish the paint before you take the first before pictures it kind of ruins the effect.​

Craig did a great job of getting the before pictures. :dblthumb2


Before
1971_Dodge_Single_Stage_001.jpg



After
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If you're ever in a position to do an extreme makeover on a classic car with single stage paint, be sure to read through my article on capturing the "before" pictures in this article...

The power in the after shots is created in the before shots


Can't tell you how many times I've heard or read of someone saying something like,


Sorry, but I didn't get any before pictures...


Once you start working on oxidized single stage paint, you'll lose your change to get pristine, "before" pictures. So slow down and take a moment to get good before pictures.

The power in the after shots are created in the before shots...


:)
 
What a dramatic turnaround!


I agree. When I first saw the paint it looked like it was about as far gone as any neglected paint I've ever seen or personally restored and yet he brought it back.

It looks like a metallic finish, if so that means this is the most difficult paint to restore because not only does the paint oxidize, but the aluminum flakes in the paint also oxidize and it's not realistic, or possible to polish off the oxidation off of each single flake, so you just do the best you can do.

I sent Craig the link to this thread and he is a member of this forum, so hopefully he'll chime in and maybe share a little about the process he used to bring this dead paint back to life.

Like how many times he rubbed the paint down with the #7 before starting to compound it.


:)
 
Thanks Mike for the thread, yes this car was my first extreme makeover and single stage paint, Chrysler paint code for this car is GF3 which translates into medium green metallic. The roof is single stage paint also but I'm not sure of the color.

I followed what Mike Phillips wrote about in The secret to removing oxidation and restoring a show car finish to antique single paints quite closely, although the 1973 Continental in the article appeared to be much more cared for than the Coronet.

This car sat in Montrose Colorado for years without any protection. The paint felt like 320 grit sandpaper, no need for a baggie test here. First I washed it because there was just too much debris and contaminants that had to come off, I followed this with clay which brought the surface to at least a condition to apply the Meg's #7.

I applied a total of 4 applications, the first one I left on for 24 hours, the other 3 applications were applied and removed in the same day. I used a total of 1 1/2 bottles of Meg's #7, and a lot of elbow grease, this is a big car and will give you a workout!

I started the correction using Meguiar's Ultimate compound using the Flex 3401 and white Lake Country buffing pad, I initially had a Kompressor pad but it tore so I continued to use the smart pad.

Single stage paint loads up fast as I had to clean the pad after every section pass. Next up was the Wolfgang finishing glaze 3.0 to remove any trace swirls left by the Ultimate compound, I followed the Wolfgang finishing glaze with XMT 360 this added some gloss to the paint, and LSP was Collinite 476s as this car will be staying outside.

Total time for this makeover was 50 hours, products used were:

Meguiar's Gold Class shampoo
XMT speed clay
Flex XC3401 VRG
Meguiar's #7
2 terrycloth wash cloths (for Meguiar's #7)
Meguiar"s ultimate compound
Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0
XMT 360
Collinite Double Coat Auto Wax #476
Meguiar's foam applicator
DP Wheel Cleaner
Flex Foam Tire Dressing Applicator
DP Gloss Tire Gel
Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer
Super Soft Deluxe Microfiber Towels
Detailers Krystal Vision Glass Kit

This makeover was a great experience for me using what I had learned at Autogeek's Bootcamp, and my previous experience using the rotary buffer, I've since detailed two other cars both with clear coat, after working with single stage paint , clear coat is much easier.

:)
 
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I had a 1970 Challenger SE in the same color. It was very popular back then.
 
Wow!! What a dramatic turn around. I can't believe how beautiful it looks now. Amazing that's all I can say!
 
Mike, what is the advantage of this method over using a cleaner/wax or AIO product via DA? That is the method I personally use and have seen others here use with great success, and it certainly seems like a lot less work that applying #7 by hand several times
 
First, just so I know because in the article I talk a lot about how this article is for neglected, oxidized antique and original single stage paint on cars that important to the owner to preserve the original oxidized single stage paint. This would mostly apply to antique and classic cars.

So if you don't mind me asking...

Have you read the article?

And I mean this in the nicest way. It's kind of long because it's VERY DETAILED. If fact, it has pictures like this to show WHY to rub single stage paint down with the oily #7 and that's because there's something taking place inside the paint that won't take place if you just compound or use a one-step cleaner/wax.



This is key...
Saturation Application --> The First Application
This is a mostly unknown technique and that is to let the first application penetrate and soak into the paint for up to 24 hours before wiping the product off. The idea being to really apply the product wet and work it in really well and the walk away.

The idea is to allow the heavy concentration of oils to penetrate and seep into the paint for maximum saturation before removing the product and continuing with the process. In this case I finished applying the first application of #7 around 9:00 pm and then left the #7 to soak in until the next day. I started wiping the product off then next morning right about 10:00am.

Some will argue if this works or not but my experience is that with a porous single stage paint it does in fact help. One thing for sure it can't hurt.

Paper Test for Capillary Action
If you place a few drops of #7 onto a piece of paper and then monitor it over a few days you will see the oils in the #7 migrate or seep away from the actual drop of product. It does this through capillary action and the same thing can work to your car's paints' advantage if it's a single stage lacquer or enamel paint.

I placed a few drops about the size of a nickel on a piece of standard printer paper around 3:00pm.

7CapillaryAction01.jpg


The next day I took these pictures at approximately 10:00am, (19 hours later), note how the oils in the drops of #7 have migrated outward via capillary action.

7CapillaryAction02.jpg


Feeder Oils penetrate or feed the paint
This same effect can take place in a single stage paint but not only will the oils travel horizontally, they will also travel vertically, that they will penetrate downward "into" your car's paint and this is where the term feeder oils comes from as the oils penetrate into or feed the paint. The result is they will condition the paint restoring some level of workability as compared to just working on old dry paint, and they will also bring out the full richness of color, something that will showcase the beauty of your car's paint.



When you ask about,

Mike, what is the advantage of this method over using a cleaner/wax or AIO product via DA?

The advantage is that if you own a classic or antique car and it's IMPORTANT to you to do everything you can to save the original paint, then ONE thing you can to is revitalize the old, brittle, dried out paint by gorging it with the polishing oils found in #7 Show Car Glaze, a non-abrasive, pure polish that's been around since the era of Model T's when single stage paints were first being invented for the car world.

Again, I actually cover all this in my article and that's why I'm wondering if you've read the article?


That is the method I personally use and have seen others here use with great success, and it certainly seems like a lot less work that applying #7 by hand several times


The techniques I share in my article on this forum and also on AutoTraderClassic.com are optional. This means you don't have to use them. My two favorite detailing tasks in order are,

Restoring antique single stage paint on "barn finds"
Wetsanding a new paint job for a show car finish on Special Interest Vehicles


The goal of both is to do the job right the first time.

In the case of restoring single stage paint it's because all my life I've seen what I call Caveman Detailers whip out their favorite caveman compound and destroy original single stage paint to the point that now the car MUST be repaint.

In the case of wetsanding a new paint job on a Special Interest Vehicle, it's because most of the time I see others do this they use archaic methods, archaic products and tools and the end results is a finish with,

Pigtails
Tracers
Holograms
Thin paint


All of the above could have been avoided by having someone do the job that actually knows what they are doing.


As far as using a one-step cleaner/wax to restore single stage paint I do believe there is a time and place and I know from experience over the last 30 years that "yes" it can be done, I'll show you below.

But my article that you're asking about is more targeted at the person that owns something cool and old that still has the original paint but the original paint is in BAD condition and it's IMPORTANT to "them" to do everything they can to preserve the original paint and that means rubbing the paint down first with a very oily product that has about 100 time-proven years of success at restoring and maintaining single stage paint.

I don't know of any other product that can make this claim. None.


Now here's how your restore single stage paint using a one step cleaner/wax and make about $100.00 per hour doing it.

How to use a one-step cleaner/wax to maximize profits


All too often I see people new to detailing get all caught up into performing elaborate, multi-step procedures to create show car finishes on daily drivers. Nothing wrong with this if you need experience or you're trying to showcase your talents. The problem however is that all too often you end up working for peanuts by the time you divide your time into your profits.


Below is an example of reducing your steps to a minimum while still creating dramatic improvement that will blow your customer away with the simple approach of using a one-step cleaner/wax.


Process
Step 1: Machine polish all exterior glass to remove road film and water spots.

Step 2: Clean and dress tires.

Step 3: Wipe vinyl top down and apply dressing.

Step 4: Wipe paint clean using clay lube.

Step 5: Clay paint.

Step 6: Clean, polish and protect paint using a one-step, cleaner/wax applied by machine.

Step 7: Machine clean and polish chrome at end of paint polishing process using same pad and one-step cleaner/wax.

Step 8: Wipe down door, hood and trunk jambs with a little cleaner/wax on a microfiber towel.
Done.
Less than 4 hours and I didn't rush. I didn't work slow but instead worked methodically through the above steps with each step building and/or adding to the forward progress of the previous step.


Car: 1970 Oldsmobile 442 Convertible W30


Before
This car is in good condition but the paint was oxidized and thus dull and lifeless. It was rough to the feel with contamination as was the exterior glass. A greasy tire dressing was used and it smeared over the white letters staining them black and brown. The chrome was stained with some type of film causing them to look dull instead of bright and shiny.

Oldsmobile_442_W30_001.jpg



Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay formed into a patty ready to clay the hood...

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The contaminants you see here are off just the hood. After claying the hood I clayed the trunk lid and then all of the vertical panels.
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Paint machine polished using a polishing pad and a one-step, cleaner/wax...

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After

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Photography 101 - The low down front grill shot

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The real deal
Yes, this is an authentic Oldsmobile 442 with the W30 package as you can see by the orange inner fender wells.

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Tip: Have a detailing package for everyone
Regardless of how much this car is worth on the market, the owner doesn't know the difference between a squirrel or a swirl and didn't want to pay a lot to have it cleaned up. As a detailer you need to have a package for everyone to suit their needs, not yours. Or walk away and move onto greener pastures.


Newbie Mistakes
I see a lot of people new to car detailing that perform multiple step procedures to create a show car finish but at the end of the day have so much time, labor and materials into the job that they end up working for peanuts.

So work smarter, not harder and to do this start by evaluating your customer first and match your services to their needs, not yours. For more information on this topic, see tis article...

A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business
Match your services to your customer





On Autogeek.net
Below are the products I used for the above car...

Pinnacle GlassWork Water Spot Remover
Machine polished all exterior glass.

Pinnacle Signature All Purpose Cleaner
Cleaned old tire dressing off tires.

Pinnacle Clay Lubricant
Wiped exterior paint clean before starting and also used with detailing clay.

Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay
Decontaminated paint.

XMT 360 Corrects, Cleans, Seals
Cleaned, polished and protected exterior paint by machine, door, hood and trunk jambs by hand and chrome trim and bumpers.

Flex XC 3401 VRG Dual Action Orbital Polisher
For all machine polishing steps .

CCS 6.5 inch Pink Cutting/Polishing Foam Pad
For all machine polishing steps.

Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel 32 oz
To dress tires and vinyl top.



:)
 
I have indeed read both of those articles(and most of your other ones in fact, haha). My confusion came from the fact that in the #7 article, you touted it as a way to save the paint vs "caveman rubbing compounds," which to me speaks more of a product like M105 or Ultimate Compound than an AIO product like M06.

As I understand it now though, youre saying the big advantage of this process is to help "condition" dried out paint so to speak?
 
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