1978 Chevy Corvette help

[Vegas Transplant]

This hand

Other than Mike, of course, there are those that I pay close attention to for varying reasons. Kinda like my personal detailing E.F. Huttons.

edit: as far as doctoring it up, you'll be fine.
Old neglected SS is fragile, and as Mike states, you may only have one shot at correcting if going total resto. That's why I use this product. If at a later date I want to throw the rotary at it, I'm good.

 

[piranah]

What was your process if I may ask? I can't recall the last SS white paint j that I worked on, but by coincidence I have one lined up Tuesday. It's in very good shape. Just stained and oxidized Toyota.



Looking at that paint, and seing that you're going to repaint in the near future anyway, being me, I would not want to go down the long road of multiple steps .
The pick up paint is trashed. Is very thin. Is very soft. Almost to the point of being unstable.
I filled one 16 ounce bottle from the gal., but don't remember how much was used. If I recall, there were only 3-4 panels that were SS.

I'm no paint expert, far from it. I just know what has worked for me on trashed SS paint that would not benefit from polishing/compounding.

I used a waterless wash on the car. Then did a good clay job. The clay process took me an afternoon, as I wanted to get every inch and make sure I did my best, it's worth it esp if your working on a classic car.

Then I buffed using megs #7. Follow Mike Phillips process for that. It's hard work but totally worth it. Then I did two layers of a cleaner wax.

I could still see spots where there was bird droppings that were not removed in time. I then attempted to buff using a pc 7424, orange pad, and xmt swirl remover. I could not tell a bit of difference after doing a test spot so I left it at that and did a carnuba wax to top it off.

Remember there is zero depth to white paint. It hides imperfections well though. Just take your time and it will come out better than you hoped.


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[Vegas Transplant]

...I could not tell a bit of difference after doing a test spot so I left it at that and did a carnuba wax to top it off.

Remember there is zero depth to white paint. It hides imperfections well though. Just take your time and it will come out better than you hoped.


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Thanks for your reply.
You got to know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em.

The Toyota is typical divorced professional mom, 3 car stable. Doesn't get much use except for running errands. Etchings, tar, waterspots. She's not paying, the referrer is. Gotta match the process with the customer. Focus on clean and bling using OPT. Haven't thought about the gloss inducing topper yet.

 

[mfrickman]

Finally got time to do a test spot with a one step AIO that I had. I did one side of the hood by hand. It turned out pretty decent.

To give some background, the paint is SUPER neglected. Flat, dull, and lifeless.

Process:
ONR wash
Nanoskin Speed Prep Sponge using ONR 4:1 for Lube/QD
PC7424XP w/ LC CCS White pad speed 5
CG AIO

I'm definitely not going for 100% correction but to at least get a reflection or two out of the paint haha

2-3 section passes and the product started to dust a lot. Lessened the pressure and made a final pass. Here's the results. I didn't do the nose, gas cap, or the rear bumper due to paint failure.

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[rmagnus]

Looks good. Tyr Meg #7 on the bumpers to rejuvenate them and you can then determine if you can polish them. Too bad about the egg etching on the side.

 

[mfrickman]

Yeah the etching sucks but we are trying to make due. Even though the AIO has sealant, can I still utilize megs 7 over the whole car or just use it on the areas I didn't polish?

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[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

but I'm trying to figure out if a very low micro-abrasive polish will be beneficial


or if I'm stuck with a non-abrasive polish like the M07.

Sure it would be and that's what my artilce states to do...


I always use an abrasive polish after the #7 treatment.

The #7 treatment is to take old, dry brittle paint and make it more workable and thus safer to abrade.


Did the above to this...

1955 DeSoto Firedome - Antique Single Stage Paint Restoration



Did the above to this...

Wayne Carini 1954 Hudson Hornet Original Paint Restored by Mike Phillips


Did the above to this...

4 Steps to restore single paint paint - 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE



I have a 1979 Corvette to do and I'll do the above to it to.

 

[mfrickman]

I've already polished the parts that were safe IMO. Can I follow up with the 7 on those areas too when I do the bad areas?

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[rmagnus]

Yeah the etching sucks but we are trying to make due. Even though the AIO has sealant, can I still utilize megs 7 over the whole car or just use it on the areas I didn't polish?

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I've already polished the parts that were safe IMO. Can I follow up with the 7 on those areas too when I do the bad areas?

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Yes absolutely especially the front and rear clip but do the entire car if you have the time. Its a glaze. Mike is the King of SS Paint and has written several articles such as the one he posted a link to. Megs#7 works miracles on this paint. SS absorbs so much more than CC paint. Once it's reconditioned you may find it's not so brittle to repolish again.

Like you said it's just a temporary fix but it's already looking so much betteer.

 

[mfrickman]

I don't have a garage. Would leaving the car outside while the no. 7 cured harm the curing process?

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[BillyJack]

I don't have a garage. Would leaving the car outside while the no. 7 cured harm the curing process?

I've always had a garage, so I can't say for sure, but I wouldn't expect any problems with leaving it soak overnight outside. Just be diligent about using a QD or WW product to remove any dust or dirt before you start any aggressive rubbing. I actually prefer to do a few "soaks" if I feel the paint needs it, 6-12 hours apart. It's hard to explain, but IMO, you can judge by the wiping effort needed to remove the M07 that the finish is saturated or if it needs more M07.
When your rubbing M07 over the paint and it feels like it's just gliding over the surface and not soaking in, you're done. As far as what compounds to use, you can go as aggressive as you dare, depending on the needs of a particular area. My favorite is Meg's M80 due to its high oil content, but I've used Meg's UC, Meg's D151, Meg's M03 and Blackfire TPS, all with pad choice determined by the amount of correction needed in that area. I've even dampsanded an area with 2000 paper if I felt there was enough paint left. Just remember that old lacquer is sometimes deteriorated "to the bone", especially on horizontal panels, so you can't always expect perfection.

Bill

 

[rmagnus]

^ +1

As far as not having a garage not the end of the world, thats what friends are for. If not I'd wait til the weather cleared on the east coast. I hear there has been lots of rain.

 

[mfrickman]

Thanks for the help guys! I'm waiting on the next sale to get the Meg's No.7 since I have a large order this go around and hopefully by then this rain will have finally quit. I'll update after I knock it out.

 

[BillyJack]

I just wanted to add a few tips that I hadn't thought of earlier.
When you're rubbing in the M07, use some "passion" as Mike P. says. I like to fold my terrycloth or mf towel to a 4'X8" pad, pinching it with my thumb and little finger against my 3 middle fingers with my palm flat on the surface, applying pressure. I've seen pics of Mike P. rubbing it it with all five fingers and his palm flat on the surface, but I'm just not that good, as the friction of the product and paint keeps unfolding my cloth. If you're doing multiple apps, it's not necessary to pack on the product. Rub it in well, but just leave a thin film remaining on the surface. When it's time for a subsequent app, knock off the heavier accumulations, but don't worry about getting the surface surgically clean, as we all know that M07 is a royal PIA to remove completely. You'll be working up enough of a sweat without making the process any harder than what it needs to be. Use your next pass to melt away any remaining product, as like dissolves like. Same with the final app if you're polishing. Just as a little motivation, here's a split shot of my roof on my Camino.

The driver's side (right side of the pic) was my test spot, shown after three apps of M07 and a preliminary buffing with M80. Compare it to the virgin side on the left.
Good luck in your endeavor. I hope I could be of some help.
Bill

 

[mfrickman]

Thanks a lot Bill. Will I benefit from the aggressiveness of the terry cloth or should I stick with MF?

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[rmagnus]

Thanks a lot Bill. Will I benefit from the aggressiveness of the terry cloth or should I stick with MF?

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I don't Want to answer for Bill as he is giving you some good scoop but based on your roof pics in post #24 I'd recommend MF towel. If it had more oxidation id go with a terry cloth towel for moe abrasion. The paint is in good shape, you've already polished it so applying a couple coats of #7 is meant to nourish the paint. It doesn't seem to have much oxidation on it.

Your bumpers will really benefit. Paint there is brittle and failing so feeding it some rejuvenating oils will really help and allow you to bring out some shine. Just be careful polishing near paint that has already started flaking off the bumper.

 

[BillyJack]

Thanks a lot Bill. Will I benefit from the aggressiveness of the terry cloth or should I stick with MF?

Terry has the benefit of more "bite", kinda like using a more aggressive pad on your polisher, but the friction between the cloth and paint is increased and the pad is always trying to bunch up or unfold as you're rubbing, slowing the process. I find the most efficient media for me is a generic mf cloth that has some woven texture to it. Not super-plush or thick, but the weave of the cloth holds a fair amount of product. You'll never hurt your paint with terry and M07, so try both and see what you're comfortable using.

Bill

 

[tuscarora dave]

Thanks for the help guys! I'm waiting on the next sale to get the Meg's No.7 since I have a large order this go around and hopefully by then this rain will have finally quit. I'll update after I knock it out.

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