1992 Mazda B2200... The Beater truck.

[Stocktastic]

Well, My dad and I picked up this '92 Mazda from my Uncle for ... $400.

It's in rough shape paint wise, and my have a bad head gasket. No big deal, really.

Anyway, in between rain showers this morning, I started polishing.

Did this test spot with M105 on a Red CCS pad.

I HATE SINGLE STAGE PAINT!!!!

Before...

Test Spot...

I'll get better pics with my DSLR when it's not raining.

 

[Matt S.]

Can't wait to see how it turns out.

 

[Matt S.]

Also, you said you used a red CCS pad?

 

[fancyfootwork]

Total steal for a vehicle.. Can get the parts fairly cheap and do your own labor. Looks like a great project car! I also can't wait to see the finished results. Gonna turn that $400 into $1000.

 

[SeaJay's]

Also, you said you used a red CCS pad?

I saw that too...I think you need to step up the aggressiveness of that pad. The red CCS pad is meant for sealants/waxes.

 

[TLMitchell]

Also, you said you used a red CCS pad?

Made me sit up and scratch my head too. Maybe he's trying to minimize the effects of red SS paint transfer on the pads. :::shrug:::

So, why do you hate SS paint? It may booger up your pads but it has the potential of the most amazing results!

TL

 

[Spicy McHaggis]

Why do you hate single stage paint? I actually don't mind working on SS paint, it's generally really soft and easy to correct. Other than taking a little more time to get the pads totally clean I don't really see a difference.

 

[Stocktastic]

I was using the red pad to minimize transfer, which is why I hate SS paint. :lol:

What are you guys using when it comes to cutting oxidation like this?

 

[J1nx93]

Try some Meg's #7 Show Car Glaze for SS oxidation. Check out Mike's article on it:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

 

[Stocktastic]

I think I'm gonna go pick some M07 up!

 

[Crazy Amos]

Try some Meg's #7 Show Car Glaze for SS oxidation. Check out Mike's article on it:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

+1 or M80 Speed Glaze depending on how much cut you need. I personally havent been able to use it because when I needed it, my local store was out. BUT, Mike recommended it and said it is like #7 on steroids. Same great oils with some cut.

 

[J1nx93]

Sounds good. Be sure to take pictures!

 

[Stocktastic]

Sounds good. Be sure to take pictures!

Will do.

It's raining again.



Oh well, it's fun to watch the water sheet off the other 3 cars, haha.

What pad would be optimal for M07?

 

[J1nx93]

Well Mike used a terry cotton towel for applying it. The M07 is completely non-abrasive and the cotton towel works as small abrasives. I was planning on using my DA for applying it myself. My best guess would be use either a white, black, or blue? I'm not positive but my guess would be a white since it has light cutting power, which in my mind would be similar to a cotton towel that helps lightly cut? I'm no pro so let someone else make the final answer! :xyxthumbs:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

+1 or M80 Speed Glaze

Mike recommended it and said it is like #7 on steroids. Same great oils with some cut.

M80 is a cleaner/polish, it contains diminishing abrasives and the same polishing oils as #7, so it is like #7 on Steroids.

As you chew off the dead paint you're going to NEED to clean your pad often, get some terry cloth towels that you don't mind getting red pigment on as cleaning your pads on the fly will transfer dead, red paint to the towels.

From my article list...

Pad Cleaning

Why it's important to clean your pads often...

How to clean your foam pad on the fly

Will do.

What pad would be optimal for M07?

#7 has no abrading ability, in the article I wrote on restoring antique paint, the context was aimed at people working on something older, antique and valuable at least to them, so they don't want to risk removing too much paint so I show how to remove dead paint using,

• #7 Show Car Glaze
• The "Nap" of terry cloth towel, this is the abrasive (the nap)
• Elbow Grease

If you want to chop off all the dead paint using a DA Polisher then get some aggressive foam pads, or the purple Kompressor, or the Surbuf pads.

Aggressively buffing out the paint will likely leave micro-marring so you'll want to remove this also.

Another option would be to use a medium to strong cleaner wax with an aggressive pad, see these articles,

Dodge Neon Extreme Makeover with Dodo Juice

KISS Detail - Extreme Makeover - Toyota Highlander


Any aggressive compound will chew that oxidation right off. As mentioned previously, single stage paints will tend to be softer than most basecoat/clearcoat paints except for single stage white paint.

I cover both points above in these two articles,


The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints

The Lesson White Paint Teaches Us



All of the above articles are on my article page and you can get to it by clicking the link in my Signature Line

Looks like fun to me, I would buff out a single stage paint job over a basecoat/clearcoat paint job ANY day...

Just finished this one except for wax...

The single stage paint was sooooo easy to buff, sanding marks from "the other guy" literally removed themselves.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Well Mike used a terry cotton towel for applying it. The M07 is completely non-abrasive and the cotton towel works as small abrasives.

Correct. You beat me to posting that...


Serisously... I wouldn't use #7 first, you can if you want to re-moisturize the paint and thus make it more workable but for this you would apply using probably something kind of aggressive to at the same time remove some of the dead paint and get the oils to the paint under it.

Any foam cutting pad would work, or Surbuf pad, or the Purple Kompressor. The Purple Kompressor is very aggressive and would probably work very well for this but be careful, on a DA Polisher, Kompressor pads can easily throw splatter dots.

There's so many ways to tackle dead, oxidized paint, just about any compound will work, Optimum Hyper-Compound would probably do a great job and it's easy to work with.

If you use a compound first to chop off all the dead paint, THEN come back and apply the #7 and you'll really see the full richness of color come out...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I did the below truck using a rotary buffer, wool pad and M80 Speed Glaze

The truck above is a 1993 Toyota Truck and the owner purchased it new, it's never been painted and the above is the original single stage paint.

:xyxthumbs:

 

[slickooz]

I did the below truck using a rotary buffer, wool pad and M80 Speed Glaze

The truck above is a 1993 Toyota Truck and the owner purchased it new, it's never been painted and the above is the original single stage paint.

:xyxthumbs:

Looks Great Mike! I'm planning on getting an rotary for this reason. Can DA get the same results without wool pads?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Looks Great Mike! I'm planning on getting an rotary for this reason. Can DA get the same results without wool pads?

Yeah with more time...

The rotary works so well for maximizing gloss on a single stage paint... but you could get the same results with any DA Polisher, Flex 3401 and Cyclo.

The pictures above actually go to a Rotary Buffer article on MOL that I wrote years ago after doing an Extreme Makeover at a MOL TNOG

:xyxthumbs:

 

[VW 91]

Is it ok to use 105 on singe stage, heavily oxidized paints?