1997 Honda Prelude oxidation on bumpers and hood

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fredcandetail

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Just wrapped up this detail and for the life of me I couldnt get it to work out cleanly...
Side panels came out perfectly as they were the least exposed to the sun but them bumpers hood and roof were still pink!
105 with a wool pad and 9227 at 1200 Rpms didnt cut it, literally.... The hood came out splotchy were in sone sections it cleared up but others it didn't and the bumpers still remained pinkish.... The customer addmitedly knew what could be attempted was but I felt like crap with the end result
105&205 were no good here and the BOGO optimum compound and polish absolutely suck balzania (sorry for the rant, but can I get a refund AG?)
I'm tempted to go back tommorow and wetsand them... Anyone have any suggestions for wetsanding 14 yr old bumpers and clear coat?
 
I would try working in some M80 followed by M07. I had a similar situation on a 1996 VW Cabrio. It was single stage, red and oxidized. It brought back the rich color.

It needs its oils back and those IMO are the best combo for chalky and dried up Single stage paint.

Oh yeah, I used my flex and a black LC pad. I tried it with my rotary but the heat and the thirsty paint weren't a great match.
 
I tried 9227 with a cutting pad, light cutting wool, heavy cutting wool and still some areas where the pinkish oxidation hid... Maybe wetsanding?
Or how do you know when it's just to far gone?
I didn't it was to far gone at first because it wasn't cracked or peeling, just dull.. So immediately I said I can get that cleaned up, finish wa flawless, no swirls but still some pink spots .. Really disappointed in my work on those spots today
 
cobalt9123 said:
Be ridiculously careful...Honda paint=soft paint.
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x2! After my correction on my 2000 honda accord, I washed it and I got some marring. I REALLY HOPE it's because of the poor quality sheepskin mitt I bought from Kragen. I'm going to order a new one soon from AG. Just a reminder when working on plastic bumpers, lower the pad color one step down because plastic holds heat longer than metal. This will increase the chance of striking through the paint even with a PC. :buffing:
 
Did you try a higher speed? 1200rpm is really low if you're trying to do serious cutting. Cutting on a rotary is usually around 1800rpms.
 
Lasthope05 said:
Did you try a higher speed? 1200rpm is really low if you're trying to do serious cutting. Cutting on a rotary is usually around 1800rpms.
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I have never used a rotary b4 but in the Hyper Cmpnd w/ Mike Phillips and Dr.G, Mike uses around 1500rpm with both the cmpnd and the polish. So seems with a paste you would want to be close to the same. Are the pads getting primed well and even? How's your arm speed? With having spots and not the whole panel still oxidized, it seems that maybe you should up the rpm and slow your arms down and make sure you are overlapping passes evenly. Just my two cents. I am sure you have all that down already. That's just the only things I could come up with. I have been wanting to try the Optimum cmpd/polish, but, after your comment on them I am having second thoughts. How about their use with a DA?
 
ShaunD said:
I have never used a rotary b4 but in the Hyper Cmpnd w/ Mike Phillips and Dr.G, Mike uses around 1500rpm with both the cmpnd and the polish. So seems with a paste you would want to be close to the same. Are the pads getting primed well and even? How's your arm speed? With having spots and not the whole panel still oxidized, it seems that maybe you should up the rpm and slow your arms down and make sure you are overlapping passes evenly. Just my two cents. I am sure you have all that down already. That's just the only things I could come up with. I have been wanting to try the Optimum cmpd/polish, but, after your comment on them I am having second thoughts. How about their use with a DA?
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M105 and the most other compounds working speeds are 1500-1800rpm. For the majority of people 1800rpm is the is the standard cutting speed and 1500rpm is the standard polishing speed. The only time I go even lower is if I am finessing the paint or I am using a compound that requires a slow speed (I.E. Einzett intensiv paste@1000rpm). It is best practice to follow the manufacturers recommended speeds. Besides the optimum polishes he used was not the new sprayable polishes.
 
Lasthope05 said:
M105 and the most other compounds working speeds are 1500-1800rpm. For the majority of people 1800rpm is the is the standard cutting speed and 1500rpm is the standard polishing speed. The only time I go even lower is if I am finessing the paint or I am using a compound that requires a slow speed (I.E. Einzett intensiv paste@1000rpm). It is best practice to follow the manufacturers recommended speeds. Besides the optimum polishes he used was not the new sprayable polishes.
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All good points/info. I know he was using the standard liquid Opt cmpnd/polish. I was trying to say that he should follow Opt's recs for rpm. And since Mike Phillips showed both hyper cmpnd/plsh work well at around 1500-1600rpm then I would assume that the reg opt-cmpnd would be close to those rpm settings and not in the 1200rpm range. I have only used the DA so that doesn't give me a lot of room to talk on this subject. I would think that failure is a strong possibility considering how old the paint is and that it probably has some of Honda's early attempts at clear coat. Hard to give a great opinion without seeing the paint firsthand. I will butt out of rotary talk until I have experience.:) Good luck with the hazing if you continue to work on it.
 
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