1998 Oxidised boat. Opinions Needed!

[gabrielgiggs]

Decided to join autogeek forums to seek out the various opinions. I'm a first-timer, and am working on my 1998 Searay 270. Have read through the forums quite a bit, but as you know, forums are filled with contradicting opinions and so I thought that the best way would be to post some pictures and get some opinions.

Firstly, I'm not exactly sure if this hull is considered as lightly, medium or heavily oxidised, but it does look like medium to me. There's no shine one it right now, and it does look slightly chalky.

I've been experimenting with numerous products and various foam pads - Buff Magic + Pro Polish, Meguiar's M67 One step Compound + M45 Polish + Collinite Wax & the whole range of Meguiar's foam pad but result hasn't exactly been stellar. All of these have been done with a Meguiar's DA Polisher and according to most instructions that I've seen online. A total of 2 - 3 compounding passes, followed by 2 passes of polish and 1 wax. Attached is the result of the test area.

I'm really looking for that deep gloss, but I'm not too sure if my expectations are too high, and if these results are actually considered "good enough". Basically, I'm hoping to get a finish that is 90 - 95% new without wet sanding, and current results has been a little disappointing - There's a shine, but hardly a deep gloss and shine is really only visible at certain angles.

I'm considering investing in a Rotary + wool combination, but having read the meguiar's forum, the DA Polisher with the Burgundy cutting pad has been considered as a better alternative, and I've tried that and yet am unsatisfied with the results.

Can you experienced detailers out there take a look at my image and processes and point me in the right direction?

Would going rotary really bring about a big improvement?

Pictures!

=136876361&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1]1998 Sea Ray Restoration Photo by gabriel_ong1 | Photobucket

1998 Sea Ray Restoration Photo by gabriel_ong1 | Photobucket

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

To that looks like medium oxidation, bording on light oxidation.

Gel-coats seem to really like wool cutting and finishing pads on rotary buffers for maximum gloss instead of foam pads on any tool.


Check this out... note that all the pictures and the process are documented in the link below, I just copied a few of the before and after pictures.


Pictures: 2000 Baja 232 Boss High Performance Extreme Makeover


BEFORE

AFTER

Hows that for clean and glossy?


Here's depth and reflection...

 

[Nick McKees37]

Check out Marine 31 Gel Coat Heavy-Cut Cleaner Wax. This product will remove the oxidation and surface staining in one step while depositing a durable layer of wax.

If you don't have access to a high-speed rotary polisher as Mike said, you can make the best of your DA with Lake Country Thin Foamed Wool Pads. These pads provide more cut than a conventional foam pad and, thanks to their thin design, are able to be efficiently rotated on a DA polisher.

Marine 31 Gel Coat Heavy-Cut Cleaner Wax + Lake Country Thin Foamed Wool Pads = shiny, well protected gel coat (in one step!)

Marine 31 Gel Coat Heavy-Cut Cleaner Wax

Lake Country Thin Foamed Wool Pads

:dblthumb2:

 

[gabrielgiggs]

Thanks Mike & Nick for the recommendations. I would be quite keen to try the Marine 31 products given glowing recommendations.

I'm thinking about the thin foamed wool pads too but have yet to see much results around.

Speaking of which, if I were to get a rotary, would you think that it makes a big difference the brand of the rotary? Say a Makita vs a regular Bosch/ HF one. I'm not exactly looking to use it for the long-run so thought if I could get away with an average one. What do you guys think?

 

[BillE]

I'll just add...from some of my experiences, there are SOME gel-coats that just won't pop. They seem to only just so shiny and deep and no matter what else you try...that's it. I should also add, this can happen on (even) new boats/RVs.

Frustrating as all get out (along with A LOT of un-family friendly words, LOL).

Bill

 

[Nick McKees37]

Thanks Mike & Nick for the recommendations. I would be quite keen to try the Marine 31 products given glowing recommendations.

I'm thinking about the thin foamed wool pads too but have yet to see much results around.

Check out this thread: 16' Key Largo Center Console Boat Detailing Class with Marine 31

Speaking of which, if I were to get a rotary, would you think that it makes a big difference the brand of the rotary? Say a Makita vs a regular Bosch/ HF one. I'm not exactly looking to use it for the long-run so thought if I could get away with an average one. What do you guys think?

I'm not familiar with Bosche's line of rotary polishers, however I can tell you that we've carried Makita for years and complaints are virtually non-existent. The Makita 9227 is built like a tank and will surely provide years of dependable service.

I'm not a fan of buying "temporary" tools. The entire point of purchasing a tool is to make a task easier, so why sell yourself short and get something that's only going to last a year or two, tops?

 

[gabrielgiggs]

Thanks for all the replies!

One more question;

Typically, with the kind of oxidation that you are seeing, how many pass would be required to bring about such a shine, say with a Rotary + Wool pad?

 

[primo spaghetti]

i cant recommend wool and a rotary enough for gelcoat.

i have the makita 9227 and it is a beast.

 

[Nick McKees37]

Thanks for all the replies!

One more question;

Typically, with the kind of oxidation that you are seeing, how many pass would be required to bring about such a shine, say with a Rotary + Wool pad?

A wool pad on a rotary polisher cuts through oxidation pretty quickly - it wouldn't take more than a couple passes before you start to reveal the shiny gel coat underneath.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Watch this...

Before and After Video
[video=youtube_share;VAJqcruBfSA"]Video showing before and after[/video]​

 

[gabrielgiggs]

Thanks for all the feedback so far. I'll be working on these suggestions and shall post back my results soon.

 

[Shtexas]

Good Luck on your boat. I'm finishing up my summer long restore of my Sea ray 340.
You should think about rebedding all of your deck hardware and checking all your through hulls for any signs of leaking while its out, if you haven't already. Should be done every few years. I had to deal with damage caused by slacking in this area.

 

[jmorlan]

My boat was pretty neglected and oxidized when I got it.
I can vouch that the marine 31 is decent stuff.
I went to town on most of the boat with only a PC 7424 and yellow lake country pad. Took a while. But it got 90% of it out.

To make it perfect i hit it a bit with a rotary and wool and a finishing pad.
I don't have any before shots. But here's a quick snap after

Sent from my futuristic Apple device while in my office doing nothing.

 

[scrubs147]

What would you recommend for a finishing pad for a rotary polisher?

 

[gabrielgiggs]

Hey Guys,

I finally managed to get round to using a Rotary and a wool pad but I'm not sure what to really expect out of a 15 year old gelcoat.

The finish is glossy, though it doesn't look deep. In a way, it looks flat, like a thin, shiny surface. Is there any way to actually achieve the deep, new look?

I've tried compounding, followed by a polish, followed by a pure polish + wax. Is there a particular thing that I should do to achieve that deep gloss look?

 

[aplusmarine]

Hey Guys,

I finally managed to get round to using a Rotary and a wool pad but I'm not sure what to really expect out of a 15 year old gelcoat.

The finish is glossy, though it doesn't look deep. In a way, it looks flat, like a thin, shiny surface. Is there any way to actually achieve the deep, new look?

I've tried compounding, followed by a polish, followed by a pure polish + wax. Is there a particular thing that I should do to achieve that deep gloss look?

If you have compounded, and the surface is clean (no oxidation, or hazy areas).
I would polish with a yellow wool pad, then use 3m's ultra machine polish with a foam waffle pad.

Finish with collinites 925 fiberglass wax, and apply with a buffer. Buff the product in slowly. Hope that helps.

 

[Nick McKees37]

Hey Guys,

I finally managed to get round to using a Rotary and a wool pad but I'm not sure what to really expect out of a 15 year old gelcoat.

The finish is glossy, though it doesn't look deep. In a way, it looks flat, like a thin, shiny surface. Is there any way to actually achieve the deep, new look?

I've tried compounding, followed by a polish, followed by a pure polish + wax. Is there a particular thing that I should do to achieve that deep gloss look?

Can you be more specific about the chemicals used?

 

[Shtexas]

After all of that compounding and polishing your test spot should shine like a diamond. It's very hard to polish through gelcoat which is sprayed between 15-30 mils depending on the quality. It is possible though. Do you see any small pores in the finish when you look closely? If so don't polish anymore, it's too thin. If that's the case there are other options you have for finishing the boat.

 

[ken tuep]

You wont really get depth on gelcoat, its basically like a single stage with the pigment in the gel. If you had clearcoat over the top, then you could get depth.

If you want it to look really wet, put it in the water and enjoy it!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Re: 1998 Oxidized boat. Opinions Needed!

Hi Gabriel ,

Just read your PM, going to reply to you here as I prefer to keep typing time on the public side of the forum not in private messages.


Like mentioned, you won't get a lot of depth or sharp reflections out of a white, gel-coat finish but you can get great gloss.

Gel-coats tend to like wool pads better than foam pads for correction and polishing work. I have not used the Presta Super Cut Compound you mentioned but I've read that this is an aggressive and fast cutting compound which should work to remove the oxidation.

If it's not getting the gel-coat as clear and glossy as you like then the next thing you can try is wetsanding the hull as this will completely remove any old deteriorated gel-coat. Then compound out your sanding marks and you should be to a clear, glossy surface.

Next you can either use a less aggressive polish or go right to a one-step cleaner/wax.

The goal is to clean up any scouring or haziness left by the aggressive compounding step and both approaches will work.

The benefit to using a one-step cleaner/wax is after you're done the hull will have some protection on it. If you polish only, then you'll still have to come back and wax.

I'd recommend getting the Marine 31 Gel Coat Heavy-Cut Cleaner Wax, this with a wool FINISHING pad, not a cutting pad should be more than enough to remove any of the deeper swirls left by the compound and the associated haze with compounding while restoring a clear, glossy surface that's protected.

I'd do all of the above via Test Spots and be sure you have dialed-in a process that works to one small area before buffing out the entire boat.


No sure where you live but I have an upcoming boat detailing class just have not set the date yet.

Next Boat Detailing Class - 24' Shearwater Extreme Boat Detail


The black gel-coat hull on this boat is oxidized...