1st Application To Brand New Car?

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Zeus63

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I"m expecting a custom ordered 2016 CLS in black exterior paint. Although I detailed cars for money when I was younger, I'm far from a pro, and there werent nearly as many products as there are now. I've read here about claying a new car and why, but is it absolutely necessary? I'm planning to lay Klasse AIO, then Klasse paint sealant, and then wax with Pinnacle Souvereign. Is this acceptable? Car will not be garaged for most of the time. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks!
 
It's surprising how much contaminants a new car comes with. They sit in shipping yards sometimes from weeks which have heavy iron particle fallout. Then spend a few days on shipping trucks etc. New cars often have some paint defects just from the shipping and handling. Some even get dent repair in the dock shops. So yes I would clay a new car and iron decon followed by light correction/polish. Klasse twins are good but there are newer and easier products to work with unless you are working by hand then Klasse twins work well by hand.
 
Welcome to AGO and congratulations! Bear in mind you have asked your question regarding claying here. Is it necessary? Certainly not however the answer here will be "you probably should". The reason being is that you want to prepare your new paint with the best possible paint surface to then lay down some wax, sealant or coating. Chances are the paint in transit from the factory has picked up something in the paint that washing alone won't remove. The best way to tell is to place your fingers into a zip lock baggie and feel your paint after it is washed. If it feels rough it would benefit from a clay process to smooth it down and remove that stuff you're feeling.

And, as pheerix mentioned, it's gone to another level of paint prep before wax and thats an iron remover. Another step to clean the paint of ferrous particles that could potentially turn to little rust dots over the life of the paint.

As far as Klasse products some here love them. By all means they are a quality product. Whether to then top it with Pinnacle Souvereign gets mixed opinions. Some say don't bother while others like "toppers". My suggestion would be to lay down your Klasse as planned and then do a small section with Souvereign and see if you notice a difference in appearance before doing the entire vehicle.

Again, welcome.
 
Thanks for the quick response, guys. I'm certain I will feel imperfections on the surface of the paint, which means I should clay, and I will. Guess I was just hoping someone would say I shouldn't, lol. I've paid people to detail my other vehicles, including claying, but I've never actually done it myself. What is the best and safest clay out there for new cars finishes? Also, Pheerix mentioned that there are better and easier products to work with other than Klasse. What are they? I will be doing everything by hand.
 
Look into the clay alternatives like Nanoskin prep sponge/towel and Optimum Opti-eraser and clay towel. Big benefit is that they are washable if you happen to drop them on the floor. As you know if you drop a traditional clay bar, you throw it away. Probably will only need the fine grade since it's a new car. Use it on the glass first to break it in to reduce the chance of marring paint. Always use lots of lube. Klasse AIO is great by hand. You won't get much correction with any product by hand anyway. Sealant wise I've really come to like the "wipe on, walk away" sealants like Wolfgang Liquid Seal, Blackfire Crystal seal, and Optimum Opti-Seal. You literally just spread around and it flashes dry and clear. No letting it haze for an hour and buffing needed. You can layer it as soon as an hour after application too.
 
I'll go through it. Actually have been going through info here all week. Not a bad thing, but actually so much info, and varying opinions, that it confuses my direction, lol. Thanks!
 
The safest way to start the claying process is to chemically remove as much of the iron contaminants as possible with a product like Car Pro IronX or Optimum Ferrex. Every car is different, but after iron decon as described above, it shouldn't be necessary to use anything but an ultra fine clay on a new car. Whatever the latest equivalent is to Sonus SFX ultra fine clay...I'm sure there are many.

These days a lot of people on here like nanoskin sponges or towels in lieu of clay. Same function. These products have pros and cons compared to clay.

Klasse AIO is very easy to use. It has a chemical cleaner in it which can be use useful for any remaining contaminants. On the downside, it has very little in the way of abrasives to remove any scratches or minor swirl marks if the car has them. If it does, I would recommend something like Blackfire SRC Polish or Menzerna SF4000 instead.

Klasse SG can be finicky, but if you have applied it before, it's not too bad. There are dozens and dozens of great sealants out there these days, all are pretty good. On this forum, Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant gets a lot of praise and rightly so (looks great). For ease of use, I really like Prima Hydro MAX. For durability, I would choose a coating like Optimum Gloss Coat. You will get dozens of other recommendations.
 
Zeus63 said:
I'll go through it. Actually have been going through info here all week. Not a bad thing, but actually so much info, and varying opinions, that it confuses my direction, lol. Thanks!
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I hear you on that! Last time I detailed a car all you did was wash and paste wax, and then Armor All came out and revolutionized car detailing lol. So many products and applications I feel like mind will blow up sometimes!

Luckily there are a lot of great folks here to steer you in the right direction...
 
Pheerix, sounds good! Can these clay alternatives be purchased here, and if not where? As far as lube, when I watched them clay my autos, they used the same auto shampoo (diluted in water) as they used to wash the car. Is this acceptable and safe? Definitely will look at the finishes you mentioned.
 
And yes, I also go way back when waxing was done with the original (yellow can) simonize. Honestly couldn't beat the protection and finish, at least back then. Of course it took hours on end and the equivalent of an 8 work-out day. I guess man then became civilized? I have used many of the newer products since.
 
Having taken delivery of 3 brand new cars myself as well as working on my clients car directly from the dealerships here is what I would recommend

Wash > Iron X > Clay > Polish > IPA Bath > Seal/Wax

The absolute basics. It's quite insane how contaminated clay can get from being used on a brand new car. Either way, this is what I do and will continue to do on new cars.
 
I thought iron x was a substitute for claying? I guess not. Can all of the aforementioned items be purchased here?
 
Zeus63 said:
I thought iron x was a substitute for claying? I guess not. Can all of the aforementioned items be purchased here?
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I would not say Iron X is a substitute for clay but an addition to a thorough decontamination. Yes, everything you need for a proper decontamination, preparation and finish is available at AG.
 
Thanks! I appreciate the advice! Now just have to decide which products to use.
 
Another aspect of the new age waxes/sealants/coatings is to apply them SUPER THIN. I'm like you and remember the old Simonize days and we'd lather that stuff on sometimes thinking "crap, more must be better, huh?". Sure, we'd be pounding that crust off with a hammer and chisel but GD what a shine! Todays products are developed to be super effective at thin. Laying these things on too thick incurs more headaches than its worth. Sometimes if i think its too thin i just lay down another super thin layer a week later.
 
vantagesc said:
The safest way to start the claying process is to chemically remove as much of the iron contaminants as possible with a product like Car Pro IronX or Optimum Ferrex. Every car is different, but after iron decon as described above, it shouldn't be necessary to use anything but an ultra fine clay on a new car. Whatever the latest equivalent is to Sonus SFX ultra fine clay...I'm sure there are many.

These days a lot of people on here like nanoskin sponges or towels in lieu of clay. Same function. These products have pros and cons compared to clay.

Klasse AIO is very easy to use. It has a chemical cleaner in it which can be use useful for any remaining contaminants. On the downside, it has very little in the way of abrasives to remove any scratches or minor swirl marks if the car has them. If it does, I would recommend something like Blackfire SRC Polish or Menzerna SF4000 instead.

Klasse SG can be finicky, but if you have applied it before, it's not too bad. There are dozens and dozens of great sealants out there these days, all are pretty good. On this forum, Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant gets a lot of praise and rightly so (looks great). For ease of use, I really like Prima Hydro MAX. For durability, I would choose a coating like Optimum Gloss Coat. You will get dozens of other recommendations.
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If you decide to chemical clean tape up the window chrome molding,if not it will damage it.
 
OK, it sounds like layering thin is the way to go with most, if not all of the newer products. Alot of great info here.
 
Quick question about machines for polishing, waxing, etc. Which are best and easiest to use? Is there any chance of "burning" finish? I have handled one, but never actually used it on any of my cars. It would be for personal use. Also what pads, how many, and for what purpose? Earlier in thread I mentioned ordering a 2016 black CLS. Yesterday my wife ordered a 2016 pearl white lexus RCF. I also have a 2015 diamond blue matalic C350. It would be used on all of these. Still deciding on products, and not sure if I decide on a machine purchase, if that changes things as far as products to use?
 
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