2 Basic Maintenance Wash Questions

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SoonerGM

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Hi everyone,

This is my first post on autogeek, but I have been lurking and researching for a while now.

So I recently purchased a black Honda CRV. I have not clayed or polished the vehicle yet but I have washed and applied a sealant. I hope to be able to go through the clay and polish procedure in the fall.

The first problem that I am having is scratches from washing the car. They are not major, but I can already see them, and if I continue to add more scratches each week that it will become significant over time.

For my wash, I use the 2 bucket method. I use Mr. Pink for the shampoo and a SHMitt. I start by spraying the vehicle down with water to knock off any loose dirt. I begin with the roof and work my way down, 1 panel at a time, rinsing the mitt off between panels. I even treat the roof as 4 panels because it's such a large area. I am swiping 1 direction or sometimes a snake pattern, and often check the mitt for contaminants after each swipe. When I rinse the mitt off I scrub it pretty good and check and it looks pretty clean to me. I do not use a gritt guard however, because some of the threads discussing the SHMitt said the gritt guard ends up tearing up the mitt, and is not necessary anyway.

Something I noticed, sometimes I hear the mitt squeaking while I wash, even when I am not applying pressure. This is the only thing I can think of that is causing the scratches. Does anyone have any ideas for what may be the problem? Am I missing some basic step?

My other issue should be easier. I am 5'5" and obviously can not reach the roof of the vehicle. I can stand on the door jambs(not preferred), or lug the ladder around. I need suggestions on a good brush. I have read swanicyouth's review on the boar's hair brushes and I am impressed. However, I don't have the money right now to invest in that, and I am looking for something cheaper.
 
Grit guards are recommended in both buckets. They do help although not perfect.

Secondly, you make no mention of drying technique, which frankly is many times the culprit. You are obviously inducing the scratches either way.

I'd scrap the Schmitt and get a carpro wool mitt for starters. Buy one grit guard for each bucket. If an air dryer isn't an option, perfect your drying technique by dampening a quality MF drying towel with a product like Aquawax
 
silverfox said:
Grit guards are recommended in both buckets. They do help although not perfect.

Secondly, you make no mention of drying technique, which frankly is many times the culprit. You are obviously inducing the scratches either way.

I'd scrap the Schmitt and get a carpro wool mitt for starters. Buy one grit guard for each bucket. If an air dryer isn't an option, perfect your drying technique by dampening a quality MF drying towel with a product like Aquawax
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response.

Right now I have a Meguire's waffle weave drying towel. I fold it several times and flip to new sides regularly. I try to blot where I can. This last wash I sprayed UWW+ prior to drying. I appologize for not providing this information before. I can't rule out scratches from drying, there may well be some. However I am noticing new scratches between the wash and drying process. Then again, it may be scratches from the last time I dried.

A lot of you guys seem to have flawless paint! That's deffinitely the kind of result I hope to achieve some day.
 
Not sure if you should strive for perfection on a DD.
Especially on a black Honda, you could be :buffing: every weekend.
 
:welcome: To Autogeek Online!! :props:

Personally, I do not care for the SHMitt at all. I bought on just to try, and I did try it. I found it does leave scratches behind. It doesn't rinse well and all. Where it does excel is when I cut it into pieces and use it for applying trim & tire coating...

Today, I use nothing but the Micro-Chenille Wash Mitts. You simply cannot find a better washing mitt on the market today. The microfiber fingers agitate the vehicle's surface to release dirt particles and gather them between the deep strands. Loosened dirt will gather in the mitt, rather than being rubbed against the paint.

For added reach get one of those 2 step fold-able ladders found locally.

Do you have a polisher?

Polishing with a machine is A LOT easier and does a better, more complete, and more consistent job then you could ever do by hand.

If you're just starting out I would suggest a Porter Cable 7424xp Kit sold here....:props:

Basic steps in order are:

  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction & Polish
  • Seal
  • Wax
 
c8n said:
Not sure if you should strive for perfection on a DD.
Especially on a black Honda, you could be :buffing: every weekend.
Click to expand...

I know that you are right, but I absolutely want to improve my technique and make sure I have the proper products. If I can get those things down the paint will look better than most everything else on the road.

BobbyG said:
:welcome: To Autogeek Online!! :props:

Personally, I do not care for the SHMitt at all. I bought on just to try, and I did try it. I found it does leave scratches behind. It doesn't rinse well and all. Where it does excel is when I cut it into pieces and use it for applying trim & tire coating...
Click to expand...

LOL, that is awesome. Thanks for this little idea as well, at least the SHMitt won't be a total loss for me. How many pieces did you cut your mitt in to? Do you use the yellow side for anything?
 
You mentioned the squeaking; this to me means there is not enough lubrication from your soap. As someone who has had two Acuras, I understand the hassle that the soft paint presents. Fortunately, my mother drives an Acura, my father also drives and Acura and a Porsche so I wash soft paint all of the time now.
My suggestion is to invest in quality wash medias (Grit Guards, Mitts, Shampoos, etc.) because the investment is more than worth it. I do not mean you have to get a $30 wool mitt, but a quality microfiber chenille mitt is good. I also would say a Grit Guard (you don't HAVE to get two) is still beneficial even if you do not rub your SHMitt against it.
 
conman1395 said:
You mentioned the squeaking; this to me means there is not enough lubrication from your soap.
Click to expand...

Something I noticed with the SHMitt... it doesn't seem to release much soap while wiping. I have resorted to squeezing soap from the mitt to the area I am working on.
 
SoonerGM said:
LOL, that is awesome. Thanks for this little idea as well, at least the SHMitt won't be a total loss for me. How many pieces did you cut your mitt in to? Do you use the yellow side for anything?
Click to expand...

I used a utility knife and cut it up into maybe 3 X 3 inch chunks. I wasn't fussy and the yellow side was used as well.....:props:
 
A pre wash with the aid of a foam cannon helps ease my mind some. Two Grit Guards, an Incredimitt for top panels and a Micro-Chenille for lower panels. I also dry with a sheeting rinse followed by air. Any towel drying is performed by blotting, not rubbing. This is usually not necessary however. I have a Black Toyota and still polish every year.
 
I honestly believe that one of the MOST important steps you can take in preventing scratches is pre-rinsing with a power washer.

I know that's not what you probably want to hear, but rinsing with the water out of the hose just doesn't do it. Especially with just a coat of sealant on your car, sure that helps, but you can bet there's still tons of tiny specs of sand/dirt that accumulate on a daily driver that cling to the surface. Good technique and tools are 95% of the job, but pressure washing the car prior removes the majority of the debris that could potentially scratch. So when it does come time to wash, you're just washing a light dirt haze off the vehicle.

I'd start with a better wash media. Personally I use and feel the carpro merino wash mitt is the best and safest available, just my opinion, and a quality soap. Then when drying, try to remove as much water as possible without touching the surface, and when you do have to, make sure you blot and not rub.
 
I agree with ditching the sponge do-dad and pressure rinsing prior to washing. Get a cheap pressure washer and a MF mitt from AG. That will help. A hose just won't remove the dirt a pressure washer will. I've done some testing with this on wheels, and I can say its true.

When you do correct that paint, you may want to consider a coating. The coating won't prevent scratches, but it should help a bit.
 
I tend to add a little ONR to my wash bucket and it helps add the lubrication you need (squeeks) as well as will aid in drying at the end. A cap full or two will make a huge difference. Drying with a QD or Aquawax and a Guzzler towel. Once you have a good base coat of wax, the ONR will make it sheet almost dry.
The Grit Guards are key, think about it, you toss your tools into the rinse bucket and they sink to the bottom with all of the dirt and grime???? Even if you only buy one to start, get it in the rinse bucket.
 
chrislorl said:
I tend to add a little ONR to my wash bucket and it helps add the lubrication you need (squeeks) as well as will aid in drying at the end. A cap full or two will make a huge difference. Drying with a QD or Aquawax and a Guzzler towel. Once you have a good base coat of wax, the ONR will make it sheet almost dry.
The Grit Guards are key, think about it, you toss your tools into the rinse bucket and they sink to the bottom with all of the dirt and grime???? Even if you only buy one to start, get it in the rinse bucket.
Click to expand...

The Optimum No Rinse (ONR) also helps to soften the water. This helps keep the contaminants underneath the Grit Guard.
 
SoonerGM said:
Thanks for the response.

Right now I have a Meguire's waffle weave drying towel. I fold it several times and flip to new sides regularly. I try to blot where I can. This last wash I sprayed UWW+ prior to drying. I appologize for not providing this information before. I can't rule out scratches from drying, there may well be some. However I am noticing new scratches between the wash and drying process. Then again, it may be scratches from the last time I dried.

A lot of you guys seem to have flawless paint! That's deffinitely the kind of result I hope to achieve some day.
Click to expand...

I doubt its flawless on a daily driver.

Also, probably change the wash pad. Get a nice $10 mit from wallyworld. I say its the $10 one because i forgot the name but its $10. Its so nice n soft. Maybe use a QD or spray wax when drying. Also dont press so hard on the paint. Just slide the suds lightly. Rinse that mitt in a Gritt Guard.
 
stilltipping3 said:
I doubt its flawless on a daily driver.

Also, probably change the wash pad. Get a nice $10 mit from wallyworld. I say its the $10 one because i forgot the name but its $10. Its so nice n soft. Maybe use a QD or spray wax when drying. Also dont press so hard on the paint. Just slide the suds lightly. Rinse that mitt in a Gritt Guard.
Click to expand...


"Nice" and Walmart in the same sentence? I don't get it.....?????
 
If you keep it waxed/sealed regularly, I would try drying with an electric leaf blower. We use one on every car was wash and/or detail. It cuts out a ton of contact with the paint. Drying is where a majority of swirls usually come.

And a HUGE +1 on the pressure washer and foam cannon! It is absolutely essential IMO!
 
You should never push hard when washing or drying. Let the chemicals and media do the work, not your elbow.
 
KMdef9 said:
You should never push hard when washing or drying. Let the chemicals and media do the work, not your elbow.
Click to expand...

I was thinking that if u are pressure washing hard dirt granules against ur car then wouldnt that be scratching? it? I like to encapsulate the dirt with foam and make it rise off the paint before it moves. Then it can drip off or be washed off while the granules r lubricates so they will just wash away. I may be wrong but I feel this way at least.
 
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