2 part scratch question

Supergus1

Supergus1

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I have a 2012 Toyota Tundra (dark blue metallic). I've got some(what looks like) towel scratches and swirls. I started working on the tailgate with these steps:
-washed
-clay
-Meguire's Ultimate Polish

The UP didn't remove the scratches so I tried Meguire's SwirlX. That didn't work either.
Should I try Meguire's Ultimate Compound, then UP, then wax?

The second part of my question is this: How often should I clay? Do I need to clay at all if I use a paint cleaner every time I wax (2-3 per year). Thanks in advance.
 
UC, UP and then wax is a good first step. Do a baggie test (use a zip lock bag) to see if you need to clay again.
 
Thanks. After I did all the above mentioned steps I did the baggie test. I couldn't believe there were still contaminants in the paint. I had used Blue Magic for clay. Ended up re-claying using a little more pressure and that seemed to help. Original scratches still there though.
 
Were you doing this by hand and what applicator were you using?
If you were trying to level paint with UP or SwirlX by hand, it would tough. With a DA, it would be possible depending on the paint.

I would go with UC.
 
UC with MF compounding pad at the highest setting on PC DA 7-8 passes would be perfect. I know that there are naysayers about Megs UC and I have used it on light to medium imperfections with the combo that I mentioned with flawless results.
 
Supergus1 said:
I have a 2012 Toyota Tundra (dark blue metallic). I've got some(what looks like) towel scratches and swirls. I started working on the tailgate with these steps:
-washed
-clay
-Meguire's Ultimate Polish

The UP didn't remove the scratches so I tried Meguire's SwirlX. That didn't work either.
Should I try Meguire's Ultimate Compound, then UP, then wax?

The second part of my question is this: How often should I clay? Do I need to clay at all if I use a paint cleaner every time I wax (2-3 per year). Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I know that paint, my buddy Mike has it on his Tacoma. You're going to have to use *at least* Ultimate Compound and an orange, if not a yellow pad. Or maybe some 101 and a white or orange pad. Honestly, for what the 101 costs it's worth it to get the Megs MF system, which is only twice the cost of 101 and has a bottle of 300 and 301 plus 4 pads and a backing plate. :dblthumb2: (And of course the Megs apron they throw in the package)

Once you try that system on your Tacoma you'll be hooked. ;)

Do you need to clay before each wax? Maybe not, just depends on the baggie test. (I use my hand, but it's the same thing.) I just don't like putting a sealer coat, (wax or sealer) on top of paint that's not glass smooth and clean. Doesn't mean you can't do it, and doesn't mean I *don't* do it. (Just that I don't LIKE to do it.) :laughing: Customer isn't paying for it, then it doesn't get it.

Plenty of nice spray waxes these days that'll be more than fine. The trick is the more you wax it.... the less tar bombs, bird poo, road grime and such will stick to the paint. The cleaner it is, the easier it is to keep clean, which translates to the easier it is to wax. (IE might not need claying.)

Although...... if you're like me (and most everyone else here) in the long run you'll find claying as a bit cathartic, just as a lot of the other things you/we do to our cars..... and will end up doing it anyhow. :laughing:
 
sorry I didn't mention this but I'm doing this all by hand, and Meguire's products are what I happen to have on hand.
 
So here's where I'm at.
This first photo in the upper right shows what the entire truck looks like. Not too bad (I thought)

This is a Sweeeet scratch from a pants button or belt buckle. Do I need to resort to using a DAO (which I don't have).

This photo is after UC twice, UP twice, and SwirlX ..... TWICE! The large horizontal scratch is still there(since I bought the truck)

WTH? The paint/CC is new (Maybe two years since the truck was produced) Can I get this finish show quality and keep it that way?
 
Supergus1 said:
sorry I didn't mention this but I'm doing this all by hand, and Meguire's products are what I happen to have on hand.
Click to expand...

Supergus1 said:
So here's where I'm at.
This first photo in the upper right shows what the entire truck looks like. Not too bad (I thought)
http://s258.photobucket.com/user/supergus1/media/006_zpsc73ea046.jpg.html
This is a Sweeeet scratch from a pants button or belt buckle. Do I need to resort to using a DAO (which I don't have).
http://s258.photobucket.com/user/supergus1/media/007_zpsba7c01af.jpg.html
This photo is after UC twice, UP twice, and SwirlX ..... TWICE! The large horizontal scratch is still there(since I bought the truck)
http://s258.photobucket.com/user/supergus1/media/008_zps1f370081.jpg.html
WTH? The paint/CC is new (Maybe two years since the truck was produced) Can I get this finish show quality and keep it that way?
Click to expand...

Oh my... "but I'm doing this all by hand"
Better you than me brother. :eek: I'd pass if I had to do even a door by hand. That'll wear you out in no time.

"Not too bad (I thought)"
Looks like Mike's, typical for most DD's. More than I'd do by hand though. ;)

"after UC twice, UP twice, and SwirlX ..... TWICE!"
Nice going so far. :dblthumb2:
Did you do SwirlX after UP? Just wondering, 'cause it should be before.

I'd say, YES you can get it to where you want it, and KEEP it that way. It's more about using different practices, proper practices, that keep it from getting swirled worse with every wash. Two bucket method, (or at least a practice that rinses any and all mitts before they go back into the soapy water) followed by a drying method that doesn't add swirls. Even my wife uses a blower these days to aid in the drying. :)

Does it take more time to follow through with those practices? Oh Heck Yes!!!

Although, (as my wife has had to RE-learn) it's easier to KEEP it clean than it is to let it get ragged out and keep getting it BACK to BEING clean. I'm almost as guilty as she is when it comes to her Denali as it's her DD and when she doesn't feel like washing it, if *I* don't feel like washing it then it just doesn't (or wasn't getting) done.

Everyone (well most everyone) likes driving a clean vehicle more than a dirty one. Once I got her to the point where she (well, one of the two of us) would KEEP it clean then she realized that it is just easier to keep it that way. I've started ONR'ing in the evenings, and or one of many QD's or DG AW, Megs 156 etc and by doing so it takes a LOT less time to clean it than spending 2~3 hours on a Saturday just washing and applying a LSP.

Maybe you're lucky enough to have a Harbor Freight in your area? (Seems I've been seeing more and more guys picking up their DA there.) Sure its an expense you originally didn't want to have, but the long run is it only takes a short time to get your vehicles back into shape, and KEEP them in shape. Not a bad trade actually. :xyxthumbs:
Besides.... it's a ton-o-fun!:buffing: :D
 
Thanks for the info Cardaddy. Actually I used the SwirlX AFTER the UP :doh:
Thank God I only worked on one panel instead of claying the whole truck. I remember telling myself "complete one panel at a time" I almost clayed the whole truck; then I would have had to wax it all!
 
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Supergus1 said:
Thanks for the info Cardaddy. Actually I used the SwirlX AFTER the UP :doh:
Thank God I only worked on one panel instead of claying the whole truck. I remember telling myself "complete one panel at a time" I almost clayed the whole truck; then I would have had to wax it all!
Click to expand...

I heard that! :D

Mike Phillips has actually said before he likes to do jobs sometimes where you do the entire thing, compound to wax, one panel at a time. Takes longer, but think about it... if you start on the roof and finish it then you're not dragging equipment on it, with the chance of messing it up. Same thing for the hood, fenders, etc. Just move from the top down and you're good to go. :)
 
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