2 passes and still scratches

[cardaddy]

I used Meguiar's 6" MF pad to cut, and the 5.5" LC black and white pads for polishing and finishing. I heard about the rupes and its negatives around curves, which deterred me away from that machine. As for the Flex, it sounds very versatile. I didn't know you can use 4" pads with it as well, which would ease the process of polishing the curves on the side and the front. I dont know im still on the fence. I've got till early april to decide, so we'll c :xyxthumbs:.

Honestly;
Get more pads and more backing plates for the GG6. It is a VERY capable machine. I can tell you of hundreds of cars all in the "Luxury" or "Exotic" range, with many of them well into 6 figures that have been finished to perfection with the GG6.

At the end of the day, it is not the machine that gets the job done.... it is the man BEHIND the machine!

Just because a machine has brute force, does not mean it finishes better. (When the operator doesn't know how to best handle that brute force.) Were that true EVERYONE - EVERY - WHERE would still be using a rotary, or a pad on a drill.

Choice of pads, speed, pressure, arm speed, product (compound/polish etc.) pad size, amount of section passes....
These, just to name a few are just the tip of the iceberg in learning and/or figuring out what works for a given car with a given paint on any given day.

Then guess what?

Different car.... and IT ALL (possibly) CHANGES.

I mean certain exceptions can apply, like if they're both modern GM cars with metallic paint for instance. Then they're both going to be relatively hard paint and you can most likely treat them the same.




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online

 

[psnt1ol]

Honestly;
Get more pads and more backing plates for the GG6. It is a VERY capable machine. I can tell you of hundreds of cars all in the "Luxury" or "Exotic" range, with many of them well into 6 figures that have been finished to perfection with the GG6.

At the end of the day, it is not the machine that gets the job done.... it is the man BEHIND the machine!

Just because a machine has brute force, does not mean it finishes better. (When the operator doesn't know how to best handle that brute force.) Were that true EVERYONE - EVERY - WHERE would still be using a rotary, or a pad on a drill.

Choice of pads, speed, pressure, arm speed, product (compound/polish etc.) pad size, amount of section passes....
These, just to name a few are just the tip of the iceberg in learning and/or figuring out what works for a given car with a given paint on any given day.

Then guess what?

Different car.... and IT ALL (possibly) CHANGES.

I mean certain exceptions can apply, like if they're both modern GM cars with metallic paint for instance. Then they're both going to be relatively hard paint and you can most likely treat them the same.




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online

+1

I have several machines (Flex 3401, Rupes 21, GG, PC ,and a Makita). They all have their advantages and disadvantages. They can all get you there. It takes time and practice to learn how to get the most out of a tool.

 

[Paul A.]

ShaunD finally hit on what i was thinking. BMW Jet Black has a notorious reputation for being ridiculously soft and correction efforts by even some pro level detailers has caused some frustration with it over recent years.

I know i am late to this party and was happy to read you got it to your satisfaction but just wanted to mention that this particular BMW paint, many times, does not act like their typical medium to medium-hard paints.

 

[taej]

Ok, you guys convinced me to keep my GG6. I did not know I can use a 3" backing plate and 3" pads for this machine, but that helped me changed my mind. Now I can get in those tight spots. I guess I will invest my money on lighting fixtures for my garage instead :xyxthumbs:. By the way, I totally made a mistake for my first time. I forgot to wipe off the car with IPA after polish, and went straight to sealant...and as I was wiping a part of the car today, I saw smudging....if that's the right word. I guess I'll wipe the whole car with IPA and reapply the sealant this weekend.

 

[Velocitybts]

Be careful with the IPA wipedown. I find on black or dark blue cars I will get very faint scratches from the wipedown. It does not matter whether I spray the paint and wipe, or spray the MF and wipe lightly. I still get them. Switched to a damp MF and sprayed it and then lightly wiped, still got it. I tried GTechniq's Panel Wipe and the same combinations happened. For whatever reason for me, the dark paints hate me. So I moved to a Dawn (did use CG Citrus till I ran out) wash down. I really soaked the wash mitt and had a strong mixture of soap. I lightly spread it over the pain and let it sit. After a few minutes I washed it again and let it sit. Then rinsed and one more time. This did take all the leftover polish off and I am ready for a coating or LSP. Just wanted to mention this before you did the work. I would find out after everything and it took me a bit to find out how it happened. A lot of trial and error.

 

[Nth Degree]

So I moved to a Dawn (did use CG Citrus till I ran out) wash down. I really soaked the wash mitt and had a strong mixture of soap. I lightly spread it over the pain and let it sit. After a few minutes I washed it again and let it sit. Then rinsed and one more time. This did take all the leftover polish off and I am ready for a coating or LSP. Just wanted to mention this before you did the work. I would find out after everything and it took me a bit to find out how it happened. A lot of trial and error.

Keep in mind that Dawn prevents spots by breaking the surface tension of water. That gives the illusion that everything is stripped from the surface due to water not beading. I would not trust it as a final step before applying a permanent coating or you risk early failure of the coating.

 

[taej]

Be careful with the IPA wipedown. I find on black or dark blue cars I will get very faint scratches from the wipedown. It does not matter whether I spray the paint and wipe, or spray the MF and wipe lightly. I still get them. Switched to a damp MF and sprayed it and then lightly wiped, still got it. I tried GTechniq's Panel Wipe and the same combinations happened. For whatever reason for me, the dark paints hate me. So I moved to a Dawn (did use CG Citrus till I ran out) wash down. I really soaked the wash mitt and had a strong mixture of soap. I lightly spread it over the pain and let it sit. After a few minutes I washed it again and let it sit. Then rinsed and one more time. This did take all the leftover polish off and I am ready for a coating or LSP. Just wanted to mention this before you did the work. I would find out after everything and it took me a bit to find out how it happened. A lot of trial and error.

Thanks for letting me know. I will just use CG Citrus and rewash the car to get rid of the leftover polish.