2 Rupes in 3 years.

I think the light pressure technique is why all my pads are dying on the Rupes. Without pressure, the velco interface is taking the brunt of the friction from the machine. When I get the Boss 15, I will try to use it like a normal polisher, applying about 10 to 15 pounds of pressure and see if the pads keep dying on me. I have been using the PC for about 3 weeks now and not a single pad died. The only difference I can see is that I apply pressure on the pad while working. I have been using the machine at speed 6 only.
 
I think the light pressure technique is why all my pads are dying on the Rupes. Without pressure, the velco interface is taking the brunt of the friction from the machine. When I get the Boss 15, I will try to use it like a normal polisher, applying about 10 to 15 pounds of pressure and see if the pads keep dying on me. I have been using the PC for about 3 weeks now and not a single pad died. The only difference I can see is that I apply pressure on the pad while working. I have been using the machine at speed 6 only.

Were you using a washer mod and/or high tool speeds?
 
I think the light pressure technique is why all my pads are dying on the Rupes. Without pressure, the velco interface is taking the brunt of the friction from the machine. When I get the Boss 15, I will try to use it like a normal polisher, applying about 10 to 15 pounds of pressure and see if the pads keep dying on me. I have been using the PC for about 3 weeks now and not a single pad died. The only difference I can see is that I apply pressure on the pad while working. I have been using the machine at speed 6 only.

Have you seen how Rupes recommend to prime their pads? Think the green rupes pad is the most sensitive to need to be primed thoroughly. You hold the polisher on the somewhat same spot for 20-30 seconds and then reload with the useally dots of polish. The prime with polish before prime working the pad or how to describe it. Read this instead to get it right lol

Tech Tips with Todd - Pad Priming - RUPES USA

/Tony
 
Have you seen how Rupes recommend to prime their pads? Think the green rupes pad is the most sensitive to need to be primed thoroughly. You hold the polisher on the somewhat same spot for 20-30 seconds and then reload with the useally dots of polish. The prime with polish before prime working the pad or how to describe it. Read this instead to get it right lol

Tech Tips with Todd - Pad Priming - RUPES USA

/Tony

Blue and grey also benefit from this priming technique.
 
Were you using a washer mod and/or high tool speeds?

Yes using washer mod. I usually use speed 4 to 4.5 when doing compounds or AIO. When applying waxes or using CarPro Essence, I use speed 3.
 
Have you seen how Rupes recommend to prime their pads? Think the green rupes pad is the most sensitive to need to be primed thoroughly. You hold the polisher on the somewhat same spot for 20-30 seconds and then reload with the useally dots of polish. The prime with polish before prime working the pad or how to describe it. Read this instead to get it right lol

Tech Tips with Todd - Pad Priming - RUPES USA

/Tony

I don't use Rupes pads. They are twice as expensive as any other pads including the ones I like the most: Meguiars Microfiber cutting disks.

I have gone back and forth between priming and not priming pads since everybody feels differently about it. Can't say I have seen any noticable difference between doing it or not. But honestly, I really doubt that priming would have any impact on the velco failing on the pads. It is supposed to make pads more effective at correcting. Also it prevent dry buffing with part of the pad.
 
Yes using washer mod. I usually use speed 4 to 4.5 when doing compounds or AIO. When applying waxes or using CarPro Essence, I use speed 3.

Light pressure + Anti Spin = Longer pad life. It regulates the excessive rotation, which is really brutal on pads, and brings up the oscillation, which isn't as hard on the pads. It keeps things in a state of balance.

I fried a few pads running the Duetto modded on higher speeds, even using both light and moderate pressure.

The washer mod seems to work better with aftermarket pads/liquids.

When using some of the Rupes proprietary accessories on a washer modded tool..

Cons:

1. Larger open pore Blue, Green, and Grey pads are almost completely unusable. The excessive rotation throws the liquid out from under the pad, rather than "mashing", or working it into the paint under the pad.

2. Excessive rotation prematurely exhausts the lubricants in the formula, causing excessive dusting, and unsynchronized abrasive cycling. This could lead to compromised defect removal, and marring of finish.

3. More vibrations, and erratic behavior by comparison to a non modded tool.

Pros:

1. Great with the new microfiber finishing pad. The pad is so dense that when covered with abrasives, it has so much drag that it resists rotation. On a modded tool it will spin normally, comfortably.

2. Usable with yellow and white pads.

I would never suggest anyone do what they don't want to do, but just some observations while in use.
 
Well I just received both my new Boss 15mm and my Torx 22D today. So I will be able to see if I get the same issues with pads. GG includes the washers to mod the machine, which is a very nice touch.
 
Well I just received both my new Boss 15mm and my Torx 22D today. So I will be able to see if I get the same issues with pads. GG includes the washers to mod the machine, which is a very nice touch.

That would be great to know.

Thank you for conducting the experiment!
 
Well I just received both my new Boss 15mm and my Torx 22D today. So I will be able to see if I get the same issues with pads. GG includes the washers to mod the machine, which is a very nice touch.

How are you liking your new polishers? Any feedback?

ScottH
 
Yes using washer mod. I usually use speed 4 to 4.5 when doing compounds or AIO. When applying waxes or using CarPro Essence, I use speed 3.

Without the washer mod, I run the Rupes at 3-3 1/2—capable of defect removal.

I never needed to use the washer mod, but can assume that as long as there’s proper pad rotation, there’s no need to be up to 4-4 1/2. It seems like you are just creating the unnecessary byproduct of heat—resulting in shorter pad service life.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
Without the washer mod, I run the Rupes at 3-3 1/2—capable of defect removal.

I never needed to use the washer mod, but can assume that as long as there’s proper pad rotation, there’s no need to be up to 4-4 1/2. It seems like you are just creating the unnecessary byproduct of heat—resulting in shorter pad service life.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline

Even being fairly new to high speed random orbitals I have noticed this as well,,I had a pad break loose just the other day and even though it was well used I noticed the pad face was cool to the touch but where it loosend up from the velcro was very warm.

I was running about 3 or 3.5 on an orange LC pad using Megs 205 ,RBL Rupes knockoff and basicly just goofing off putting a shine on a back row hoopty,,thats what I save my old pads for and try new things out on.

I am guessing this kind of heat transfer is pretty much par for the course
 
Even being fairly new to high speed random orbitals I have noticed this as well,,I had a pad break loose just the other day and even though it was well used I noticed the pad face was cool to the touch but where it loosend up from the velcro was very warm.

I was running about 3 or 3.5 on an orange LC pad using Megs 205 ,RBL Rupes knockoff and basicly just goofing off putting a shine on a back row hoopty,,thats what I save my old pads for and try new things out on.

I am guessing this kind of heat transfer is pretty much par for the course

Think it's dlc95 that has written about the different hook and loops on the backing plates suits different velcro on pads. When they are not a match the wear and tear on the velcro is high. And with the power from the longthrow action it can be hard on the pads velcro. Can be something to think of but hard to know what's suits the backing plate you use.

I think that I will be testing to turn down the speed on the polisher. Think it's Jason Rose that uses very low speed when he polishing. 3-4 when compounding and 1-3 when polishing. The abrasives is so effective and of high quality that more speed is not needed. It's like the high speed rotary polishing is also almost not needed anymore. You don't need to go over 1000rpm with how the abrasives is today. So there are different technique to get to the same end goal. Find something that works and polishing on :)
 
Think it's dlc95 that has written about the different hook and loops on the backing plates suits different velcro on pads. When they are not a match the wear and tear on the velcro is high. And with the power from the longthrow action it can be hard on the pads velcro. Can be something to think of but hard to know what's suits the backing plate you use.

I think that I will be testing to turn down the speed on the polisher. Think it's Jason Rose that uses very low speed when he polishing. 3-4 when compounding and 1-3 when polishing. The abrasives is so effective and of high quality that more speed is not needed. It's like the high speed rotary polishing is also almost not needed anymore. You don't need to go over 1000rpm with how the abrasives is today. So there are different technique to get to the same end goal. Find something that works and polishing on :)
I'm not 100% certain, but I believe most of the long throw polisher plates are made with micro hooks.

Rupes had a problem with the mk2 grey easy release plates, because people typically mash the pad into the panel, thus causing the excess heat to melt the hooks.

Sometimes day to day wear in loop material can cause friction. As the loops wear, the fit isn't as tight and snug allowing for excess movement. This movement is heat generating friction.



Sent from my SM-G920T using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Think it's dlc95 that has written about the different hook and loops on the backing plates suits different velcro on pads. When they are not a match the wear and tear on the velcro is high. And with the power from the longthrow action it can be hard on the pads velcro. Can be something to think of but hard to know what's suits the backing plate you use.

I think that I will be testing to turn down the speed on the polisher. Think it's Jason Rose that uses very low speed when he polishing. 3-4 when compounding and 1-3 when polishing. The abrasives is so effective and of high quality that more speed is not needed. It's like the high speed rotary polishing is also almost not needed anymore. You don't need to go over 1000rpm with how the abrasives is today. So there are different technique to get to the same end goal. Find something that works and polishing on :)

I’ve been saying this for a long time. I rarely go above speed 4 for any reason. Moving higher will increase pad wear and heat. Everyone wants more power for their RO polishers, try working on technique instead. I’m still using my first generation Rupes 21 for horizontal surfaces with no problems. If you think you need more power grab a rotary or Flex 3401, but if you already own a Rupes just fine tune your technique. I love the people that want to increase the power of the Rupes Mini. It will already melt the pads on 6, why? Heat is the enemy and running at a higher speed creates more heat. Sorry for the rant.
 
I’ve been saying this for a long time. I rarely go above speed 4 for any reason. Moving higher will increase pad wear and heat. Everyone wants more power for their RO polishers, try working on technique instead. I’m still using my first generation Rupes 21 for horizontal surfaces with no problems. If you think you need more power grab a rotary or Flex 3401, but if you already own a Rupes just fine tune your technique. I love the people that want to increase the power of the Rupes Mini. It will already melt the pads on 6, why? Heat is the enemy and running at a higher speed creates more heat. Sorry for the rant.

Same here.

No washer. Never over speed 4.

Guys like to do the mashcrank. Speed 6, standing on the tool.
 
when I got my RBL I went balls out at first but after awhile I realized I was causing more work for myself.

After some googling I found the Autogeek website and that helped me slow down,find proper pad selection and product selection,,this site has really helped my gameas far as High Speed Random orbitals are concerned.
 
The PC is "old faithful".

I've been really lucky with the Rupes stuff I have, but I only really use it for high end paint correction/enhancement lately. I also don't use it outside of their system, which means no washer mod or aftermarket pads/polishes (Not because the other stuff doesn't work - it just doesn't work as well - in my hands). Even on my cart with deep sides, I stepped on the cord last summer and the thing fell head first on the cement driveway, cracking the cap (Duetto) where I grip the polisher... The PC has proven to be very robust in that situation - not that I try to make a habit of stepping on cords resulting in a polisher crash!

If I know the power outlet might be suspect, or the environment is questionable, I just take the PC, and get to work. Between microfiber pads and advanced compounds, there isn't much it can't do. The one I usually use is a 2006, I found used on ebay for $45.00 or so + shipping. My 2011 7424xp I got new, and that thing has been put through It's paces... Of course I also have the 3401 that is also on stand by for those huge jobs like bucket trucks, campers, and trailers..

I have yet to go on a job without one of those two PC's. Even if I don't use it, It's presence brings a certain peace of mind.

Old Faithful is so true. I had to reach for the PC this past weekend because my Rupes 21 was dead and it only received minimal usage, but man my arms were itchy. I'm going to purchase the Makita DA now. I'm sending the Rupes in for fix, but if it dies again, I will use it as a huge pad drier.
 
Old Faithful is so true. I had to reach for the PC this past weekend because my Rupes 21 was dead and it only received minimal usage, but man my arms were itchy. I'm going to purchase the Makita DA now. I'm sending the Rupes in for fix, but if it dies again, I will use it as a huge pad drier.

I don't get the tingly hands, but being a drummer for 32 years might have something to do with that.

I find that the weight for the 6" plate works great with the 5" plate/pad set up. The added weight helps with the extra weight of the pad + liquid. Based on pure physics even that small amount of weight brings inertia to help it maintain rotation. However, with a 3, or 4" pad, it will vibrate. That's why I have a dedicated tool with the 5" weight for smaller pads.

I'm not a fan of 5 or 6" plates with the 5" weight. The 7424 feels sluggish and weak with them unless cranked up to 5 or 6.

I know years ago the theory that these weights made a difference was dismissed, but I say try it for yourself and see.
 
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