2002 745 BMW paint correction questions?

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2002 745 BMW paint correction questions?


I get e-mails all the time from people with questions about detailing their cars. While I prefer people to join our forum, become part of our community and then post their questions to the forum I know not everyone in the world is going to do this so I always do my best to share the nutshell version of an answer I would invest the time and resources to type out if I were typing on the forum. That's because you can do so much on the forum and so little in an e-mail and typing time is limited.




Mitchel said:
Hey there mike, I completely detailed my car In my own garage about 3 months ago, and my car is looking great!!!

I used the wolfgang uber compound, finishing glaze, and paint sealant.

I used 3 different types of pads along with the Chicago electric dual action polisher from harbor freight.

I got some swirl marks and spider webs a couple days after.


Is it because of the pads?
Is it because I did not use swirl remover in between?

I would greatly appreciate it, I love your website, and you've done everything just how I would do it!

Thanks for listening and thank you in advance for a response.

Mitchel


Hi Mitchel,


It's never any fun telling people this but here goes anyways....


Clearcoat paints are scratch-sensitive, this means that even while modern clearcoat paints a (generally speaking), harder than traditional single stage paints, they still scratch very easily.

Because they are harder, it's difficult to remove them and thus one of the biggest reasons so many people have switched over to machine polishing instead of hand polishing in the last 30 years.

Here's my article that explains about the scratch-sensitive characteristic of clearcoat paints.


Clearcoats are Scratch-Sensitive



As to your question...

Mitchel said:
I got some swirl marks and spider webs a couple days after.


I guess my first question would be...

How did you wash the car or wipe it down?

You see, the way paint gets swirls and scratches is caused by the way it is "touched".

I know that can seem very simple but it all goes back to how clearcoats are scratch-sensitive.

Recently another gentleman send me a similar question via e-mail and I explained how to touch the car carefully and softly.


How to prevent swirls and scratches on black BMW X5


If the scratches just appeared with no touching, i.e. you didn't wash or wipe the car down then it's possible you didn't remove them in the first place and they are now showing back up as the wax or sealant wears off?

The products you used are top notch and capable and able to do the job right the first time. The most important step is the first step as this is where you remove the swirls and scratches.

If you didn't remove them but instead just masked them then this could be either your technique or the pad you used wasn't aggressive enough or both.

In my life, I've demonstrated how to remove swirls and scratches by machine millions of times and often times someone watching will say,

That's what I did wrong

Meaning after watching the correct technique they spotted something that told them they were doing something wrong with their own technique.

Happens a lot....


:)
:)
 
I always think if the swirls re-appear a short while later; you probably never removed them in the first place. Things like filling of the polish and not scrutinizing of your work in the most critical of light sources could be the reason why you think they were initially removed and they were not.

Of course it is possible to re-swirl the car up again.
 
Thank you for the response!!
As to my answer, I believe I figured it out.
Pressure was not applied in some spots when compounding/finishing glaze, and the pads I used were $4 each and ripped halfway inbetween the compounding and glazing.

I will order the pads off your sight and re do these steps.

I clay bar before I compound and use dishwasher detergent for the first wash, meguiars wash after I Claybar it.

Thanks!
 
Thank you for the response!!

Stepping out on a limb here but I'm going to guess you're Mitchel and you've joined our forum?

Congratulations!

Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:



As to my answer, I believe I figured it out.

Pressure was not applied in some spots when compounding/finishing glaze, and the pads I used were $4 each and ripped halfway in-between the compounding and glazing.

I will order the pads off your sight and re do these steps.

Click the link below, watch the video and if you scroll down you'll find the links to the backing plate and pads you want and need.


Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation



I clay bar before I compound and use dishwasher detergent for the first wash, Meguiars wash after I Claybar it.

Thanks!

If you're into car detailing, and it appears that way since you've purchased a DA Polisher, then I'd recommend getting a copy of the second edition of my first book.

It's this one...




This is good too...


How to Properly Use the Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher Updated!
PorterCableDVD.jpg




This one is very good too... its brand new to the market and although it shows all Meguiar's products the TECHNIQUES apply to any dual action polisher, pads and chemicals.

meguiars-g110v2-dual-action-polisher-express-kit-4.gif



Of course, it's always most important to use high quality compounds and polishes as it is the abrasive technology, the stuff touching the paint that is most important.




:)
 
Just a word of advice, and I'm sure Mike will concur - never cheap out on pads and polishes. You can get away with cheap other stuff sometimes, by good quality pads and polishes are essential.

All the pads and polishes they sell at AutoGeek are top notch.
 
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