2006 Topless Mustang

Topless Stang

Topless Stang

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Hello,
I've been bitten by the detail bug and after many google searches I found this site. I was first interested in all the products available for sale, then I found all of the info in this forum. But so far I haven't found answers to some of my questions, so I figured I'd join and post a few things myself.

I purchased my car used last September and the finish was in good shape. Since then I have put about 25K additional miles on the car. I have usually been good about washing the car every week, but I haven't been doing that these past few months. After moving into my new house w/garage I have a place to treat my baby right. I know it's tired of the automatic car washes and power car wash bays. This leads me to my real questions(If you're still reading lol).

I was initially looking at getting one of the Poter Cable 7424XP kits, but after reading on this site apparently the Flex XC 3401 is a much better unit. This my first foray into the detailing scene, so my skills are nonexistant. My question is...knowing my skills are poor should my initial investment be in the Flex machine? I'll be working on my car, my girl's car and possible down the road I'll be purchasing a late model honda for commuting. I see there are quite a bit of accessories available for Porter Cable, but the Flex unit doesn't have that many(That is weighing on my mind). From what I can tell, even if my skills get much better, there's only so much I can do with the Porter Cable Unit. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Also, I wanted to be sure I had the multi-step process down..

Wash
Dry
Clay
Wash
Dry
Polish - Start with a White Pad, go to Orange if needed
Wipe
IPA
Sealant - Gray Pad
Wax - Blue Pad

Are the above steps correct?

I have a black convertible top so I was also looking at Forever Black Black-Top Dye, 303 Fabric/Vinyl Convertible Top Cleaner & Protectant. Is anything else recommended?

For my first go at it I was looking to use the Pinnacle Twins or the WG 'Twins', followed up by Klasse High Gloss Sealant. I had a question on waxes...What's the difference between Pinnacle Souveran Liquid Wax & Spray Wax? Is there a difference or could I got the cheaper route and get the spray and just use it with my DA?

Sorry for posting a book....I just had some questions prior to spending close to $400 lol
 
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All seems good to me except there is no need to re wash after claying if you just use water or QD and wipe as you go. Also I would not apply sealant or wax with a buffing pad as it soaks up waaaaay to much product. Good luck
 
Are you using LC pads? If so the orange pad is a light cut and should be used before the white that is a polishing pad.
 
SpotlessDetail said:
All seems good to me except there is no need to re wash after claying if you just use water or QD and wipe as you go. Also I would not apply sealant or wax with a buffing pad as it soaks up waaaaay to much product. Good luck
Click to expand...

You wouldn't use a Grey or Blue pad to apply sealant or wax? I was thinking this would be better than using my inexperienced hands since I've never really done this before. For my first go I was going to use some cheaper product to help out my learning curve.
 
No really learning curve for wax or sealant. Pretty much idiot proof. You can do it but you will use alot of product thats all. The learning curve comes in when you start polishing and compounding by machine. Nice car by the way.
 
sullysdetailing said:
Are you using LC pads? If so the orange pad is a light cut and should be used before the white that is a polishing pad.
Click to expand...

I planned on using LC pads. I read that you should try using a white pad first instead of going straight to an orange pad because a white pad is a slight cutting pad. My plan was to buy the PC kit with 5 pads. I was going to choose 3 white 6.5" pads, 1 gray 6.5" pad, 1 blue 6.5" pad and 2 orange 5.5" pads. The two orange pads are for swirl removal, the white for light polishing and the gray pads for applying sealant and wax. I was going to keep one white pad separate and never use it. It's purpose is to reside under microfiber bonnets.
 
SpotlessDetail said:
No really learning curve for wax or sealant. Pretty much idiot proof. You can do it but you will use alot of product thats all. The learning curve comes in when you start polishing and compounding by machine. Nice car by the way.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. At first I'm going to use the DA, once I get more comfortable I'll use my hands. Thanks for the compliment, but after a couple months of dirt it's no longer a nice car lol. What are your thoughts on my other questions?
 
Since I have done numerous Mustangs in year rance the paint is a little on the hard side. I would suggest the PC kit with Meguiars 105 and 205 with the 5 inch pads. For your top I would go with the 303 protectant. Your process is fine. I prefer to wash after claying myself and then an IPA wipedown before I start polishing. You also want to so an ipa wipedown after every polish step so you can get a true reading of the finish. You want to use a finishing pad(blue ccs) to do your final polishing step. On applying your lsp I do all of mine by hand.

About your wax question, the liquid and spray are not going to be as durable as a paste would be and a sealant will last a little longer than a wax. Depending on what you are going for is what will depend on whether you use a wax or selant.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
Since I have done numerous Mustangs in year rance the paint is a little on the hard side. I would suggest the PC kit with Meguiars 105 and 205 with the 5 inch pads. For your top I would go with the 303 protectant. Your process is fine. I prefer to wash after claying myself and then an IPA wipedown before I start polishing. You also want to so an ipa wipedown after every polish step so you can get a true reading of the finish. You want to use a finishing pad(blue ccs) to do your final polishing step. On applying your lsp I do all of mine by hand.

About your wax question, the liquid and spray are not going to be as durable as a paste would be and a sealant will last a little longer than a wax. Depending on what you are going for is what will depend on whether you use a wax or selant.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. I heard the Megs 105 & 205 has a bit of a learning curve. I just read up on the whole IPA process today and thought I would include it. How many polishing steps are there...I thought it was just one? So if I understand you right this should be the process..

Wash
Dry
Clay
Wash
Dry
IPA
Polish with Megs 205 - white or orange ccs pad
IPA
Polish With Megs 105 - white ccs pad
IPA
Apply Klasse Sealant - blue ccs pad
Apply wax after curing - blue ccs pad

You said the last two steps should be done by hand and not with the DA? I think I may be missing something...using my above steps which step is the LSP...wax or sealant + wax? What is the gray pad used for? If the above steps are all I'm going to do would I even need a gray pad? You were comparing wax and sealants...you shouldn't use both? I don't mean to sound like an idiot...I'm just trying to make sure I get it right before I invest any funds.

About the vert top...the 303 protectant is on my list as well as the cleaner and the black dye. That process would be...

303 Cleaner
Wash
Dry
Dye
Protectant

Is that right or should I wait a few weeks to apply protectant? My main goal is to get my car looking good of course lol. I plan on doing a few upgrades next spring(super charger & GT500 Conversion) so I want my current paint to look as good as the freshly painted parts I will be adding. I also wanted to try to enter some local car shows next year too, and since this is my daily driver(sometimes up to 700 miles a week) I need to pick something that's decently durable, but also decently priced.
 
Topless Stang said:
Thanks for the response. I heard the Megs 105 & 205 has a bit of a learning curve. I just read up on the whole IPA process today and thought I would include it. How many polishing steps are there...I thought it was just one? So if I understand you right this should be the process..

Wash
Dry
Clay
Wash
Dry
IPA
Polish with Megs 205 - white or orange ccs pad
IPA
Polish With Megs 105 - white ccs pad
IPA
Apply Klasse Sealant - blue ccs pad
Apply wax after curing - blue ccs pad

You said the last two steps should be done by hand and not with the DA? I think I may be missing something...using my above steps which step is the LSP...wax or sealant + wax? What is the gray pad used for? If the above steps are all I'm going to do would I even need a gray pad? You were comparing wax and sealants...you shouldn't use both? I don't mean to sound like an idiot...I'm just trying to make sure I get it right before I invest any funds.

About the vert top...the 303 protectant is on my list as well as the cleaner and the black dye. That process would be...

303 Cleaner
Wash
Dry
Dye
Protectant

Is that right or should I wait a few weeks to apply protectant? My main goal is to get my car looking good of course lol. I plan on doing a few upgrades next spring(super charger & GT500 Conversion) so I want my current paint to look as good as the freshly painted parts I will be adding. I also wanted to try to enter some local car shows next year too, and since this is my daily driver(sometimes up to 700 miles a week) I need to pick something that's decently durable, but also decently priced.
Click to expand...

First you are not an idiot, ask away and I will be more than happy to you in the correct direction. You just want to want to make sure you have your ducks in a row and there is nothing wrong with that.

O.k., on to the 105/205. These are very easy to use with the pc, slight learning curve with a rotary but not as bad as some have made it out to be. Just from experience your paint is on the harder side, with that being said you will probably need to strt out with 105 on a white polishing pad. If that does not remove all the defects step down to an orange pad. Now just because you go over the paint with one pass doesn't mean you will not have to go back over again with the same process to remove the defects. If the orange pad is needed I would suggest going back over the vehicle with a white pad and 105.

205 is there finishing polish, this would be used after 105 on a finishing polishing pad. This process is going to clean up the slight marring left from your 105 steps and bring the gloss, shine and depth to the paint. Once again you might have to go back over the car again to get it where you want it.

During these steps I use an IPA wipedown to get the true finish.

Lets see, now you are done with your final polishing, you can go about this two ways. If the dust is in alot of cracks or you have excessive dust I would wash the vehicle to remove this. If the dust isn't bad I would just do an IPA wipe down. On to the next step.

Once you are done with the above step you are ready to apply your lsp of choice. Durabilty seems to be your thing so I would go with a sealant. I like the Wolfgang sealant, very easy to use. Klaase is a pain to use if you do not have it mastered. As far as applying your lsp I prefer to do it by hand, thats me, others use a finishing pad, like a red one on the pc at low speeds.

As far as the top you have it down, I have never had to use a dye so I can not tell you about its use, but other than that you seem to have it down.

If this is a little vague, just pick it apart and ask more questions and I will answer them for you. I hope this helps.

This is what I guess you want your car to end up looking like after your mods-lol.
vette694.jpg
 
Topless Stang said:
I planned on using LC pads. I read that you should try using a white pad first instead of going straight to an orange pad because a white pad is a slight cutting pad. My plan was to buy the PC kit with 5 pads. I was going to choose 3 white 6.5" pads, 1 gray 6.5" pad, 1 blue 6.5" pad and 2 orange 5.5" pads. The two orange pads are for swirl removal, the white for light polishing and the gray pads for applying sealant and wax. I was going to keep one white pad separate and never use it. It's purpose is to reside under microfiber bonnets.
Click to expand...
Ya your right. I taught you were useing the white pad then fallowing with orange.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
First you are not an idiot, ask away and I will be more than happy to you in the correct direction. You just want to want to make sure you have your ducks in a row and there is nothing wrong with that.

O.k., on to the 105/205. These are very easy to use with the pc, slight learning curve with a rotary but not as bad as some have made it out to be. Just from experience your paint is on the harder side, with that being said you will probably need to strt out with 105 on a white polishing pad. If that does not remove all the defects step down to an orange pad. Now just because you go over the paint with one pass doesn't mean you will not have to go back over again with the same process to remove the defects. If the orange pad is needed I would suggest going back over the vehicle with a white pad and 105.

205 is there finishing polish, this would be used after 105 on a finishing polishing pad. This process is going to clean up the slight marring left from your 105 steps and bring the gloss, shine and depth to the paint. Once again you might have to go back over the car again to get it where you want it.

During these steps I use an IPA wipedown to get the true finish.

Lets see, now you are done with your final polishing, you can go about this two ways. If the dust is in alot of cracks or you have excessive dust I would wash the vehicle to remove this. If the dust isn't bad I would just do an IPA wipe down. On to the next step.

Once you are done with the above step you are ready to apply your lsp of choice. Durabilty seems to be your thing so I would go with a sealant. I like the Wolfgang sealant, very easy to use. Klaase is a pain to use if you do not have it mastered. As far as applying your lsp I prefer to do it by hand, thats me, others use a finishing pad, like a red one on the pc at low speeds.

As far as the top you have it down, I have never had to use a dye so I can not tell you about its use, but other than that you seem to have it down.

If this is a little vague, just pick it apart and ask more questions and I will answer them for you. I hope this helps.

This is what I guess you want your car to end up looking like after your mods-lol.
vette694.jpg
Click to expand...


Thanks for breaking it down for me. I appreciate all of the info. I think you just sold me on the Megs products lol. I think I have it now as far as the whole process. Heavy polish/defect removal, light polish, LSP. The LSP is either a sealant, wax or both. That last step is where I got confused. As far as pads go I didn't see you mention a gray pad. Is it even needed, or would I be successful with just orange, white and blue? As far as claying goes I was also looking at the Paintwork Clay Pad. have you ever used that? It looks like it would go a long way to speed up the process.

As far as the car goes that's close...there's a few differences. The first major exterior mod I'm doing is the spoiler. I purchased a Roush spoiler(in gloss black) and I'll be adding that to the car as soon as I finish detailing it. I have some water spots under the factory spoiler that HAVE to come out prior to mounting the new one. That's what actually sparked my new interest in detailing. I also have a set of 20" black Shelby Redlines to go on it and some gloss black GT side skirts. I'm currently working on a new set of winter wheels. I purchased a set of 17" gt gray bullits. I'm painting them black with a white lip before I put them on. I'll also be adding a fiberglass Shelby KR hood replica. I could talk about my mod plans all day lol. I think I'll be making my purchase tonight though...still reading up on which machine would be better for me. Thanks for the great walk thru.
 
As far as clay goes you can use the Mother's stuff you can get locally.

Just to make it clear you want to start off with the least aggressive method, but from experience with your paint you will need to start with 105.

Personally as far as the tools are comcerned you can't go wrong with a Porter Cable, they are one of your top tool makers.

Keep us posted on your car. :props:
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
As far as clay goes you can use the Mother's stuff you can get locally.

Just to make it clear you want to start off with the least aggressive method, but from experience with your paint you will need to start with 105.

Personally as far as the tools are comcerned you can't go wrong with a Porter Cable, they are one of your top tool makers.

Keep us posted on your car. :props:
Click to expand...

Ty sir...I'll do that. I think I'm set on a polisher. I'm going to go with a PC7424XP. I was sold on it first, then I started to read that the Griot ROP has more power which would help with doing corrective work. Its also around the same price as the PC, so I was going to get the Griot...that was until I started to look at warranties. Apparently everywhere I've lived has a repair shop where I can get the PC serviced...I can't say the same for most other brands. Looks like I'll be picking up a PC7424XP. One more question...as far as pad selection goes:
2 - 5.5 Orange CCS Pads
3 - 6.5 White CCS Pads
2 - 6.5 Gray CCS Pads

Do I need to pick up any Blue pads if the kit comes with 2 flat red pads? I could switch to 1 blue and 1 gray if needed.
 
It is never a bad thing to have too many pads. I would also pick up some blue pads and if you plan to use the pc to apply your lsp I would also pick up a couple red pads.
 
It seems like you are getting some great advice on the paint aspect, so I will chime in on the fabric top. You do not need to dye. Your top is not old enough and modern fabrics will barely fade over their useful life so that step is not needed.

Just protect it with Fabric Gaurd, this is what I use and the 303 slightly darkens the fabric by itself as well.

Photo0470.jpg

Photo0472.jpg
 
I doubt he has a cloth top. The Shelby comes with a cloth top, the GT's have to be ordered that way. I will be surprised if his top is cloth.
 
Topless Stang said:
Ty sir...I'll do that. I think I'm set on a polisher. I'm going to go with a PC7424XP. I was sold on it first, then I started to read that the Griot ROP has more power which would help with doing corrective work. Its also around the same price as the PC, so I was going to get the Griot...that was until I started to look at warranties. Apparently everywhere I've lived has a repair shop where I can get the PC serviced...I can't say the same for most other brands. Looks like I'll be picking up a PC7424XP. One more question...as far as pad selection goes:
2 - 5.5 Orange CCS Pads
3 - 6.5 White CCS Pads
2 - 6.5 Gray CCS Pads

Do I need to pick up any Blue pads if the kit comes with 2 flat red pads? I could switch to 1 blue and 1 gray if needed.
Click to expand...


As far as pads go you might take a look at the new LC Hydro-Tech pads, I have used them a liked them and others are giving good reviews as well. They would replace the Orange and White CCS pads Cyan would replace Orange and Tangerine would replace White. They are available in other sizes besides the 6.5" I linked as well. Lake Country Hydro-Tech 6.5 Inch Foam Pads, water-based polish pads, foam buffing pads, hydro tech pads

I'm a newbie I got along with them well. I did a review of them here. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/20999-review-new-hydro-tech-6-5-pads.html

They are worth a look for sure.
Good luck with your project! :buffing:
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
I doubt he has a cloth top. The Shelby comes with a cloth top, the GT's have to be ordered that way. I will be surprised if his top is cloth.
Click to expand...

Huh, thats interesting. You learn something new everyday! Well, I guess my post is now based on the slim chance he got the fabric top then. ;)
 
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