2006 Topless Mustang

ASPHALT ROCKET said:
It is never a bad thing to have too many pads. I would also pick up some blue pads and if you plan to use the pc to apply your lsp I would also pick up a couple red pads.
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Ok, so I'll add some blue pads. I believe the 5 pad PC kit comes with a couple of flat red pads.

ASPHALT ROCKET said:
I doubt he has a cloth top. The Shelby comes with a cloth top, the GT's have to be ordered that way. I will be surprised if his top is cloth.
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That's correct. At first I thought it was fabric since it's called sailCLOTH...but it's vinyl...go figure :bash: I can thank this site for figuring that out. I just wanted to dye it because it looks like it's kind of faded. I want it to 'pop' a little more. I'll clean it and use the protectant and see how I like that. I just wanted to get most of what I needed in my first order. I would have to pay for shipping on a $12 product. Thanks to all for the advice. I'm piecing together my order now and I'll post up what I got afterwards. Hopefully I can get some more tips on the products I chose then.
 
Has anyone had experience with the Clay pad attachment? I'm trying to find out what tools can help me shorten my time.

Based on recommendations I'm going to go with WG's paint sealant 3.0. I was looking at using PB's World Natty's Paste wax...has anyone used that combo? Thanks again!
 
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The new PC 7424XP is a great tool and should tackle most of what you come up against on you Mustang. Since you're new to machine polishing, check out this thread as it's pretty detailed in all aspects of using this tool for correction work.

Tips and Techniques for using the PC 7424XP Dual Action Polisher to remove Below Surface Defects


Dana likes to do an IPA wipe down after each step when he details cars and that's his method and it works for him and you're welcome to follow his advice as there is no right or wrong way when it comes to buffing out a car when it comes to a step like this.

My personal preference is to just move forward in the process, that is after using your first step product, in this case the M105, move on to your second step process the M205, no IPA wipe down in-between.

Most chemists formulate their product to have a chemical synergistic compatibility, That is the chemist best knows how to make all the follow-up products in a system because they formulated the initial use or first step products in the system.

I'm not sure I've ever read any car wax manufacture recommend to chemically strip paint after using their products before going on to the next step.

But just to make sure everyone's clear, this is a personal preference and no one will deny that Dana aka Asphalt Rocket is not good at what he does, so feel free to try his method but I want to point out in this thread for everyone that will read it into the future, that it's not recommended by the manufacture of the M105 and M205 to chemically strip the paint and it's not necessary if you do a Test Spot first and insure that you're getting the results you''re looking for in your Test Spot.

Then the idea being if you're getting great results in your Test Spot, (which you can do an IPA wipe down to insure you're getting an accurate reading of your results), then there's no reason to wipe the entire car down if you're simply duplicating what you did in your test spot to the rest of the paint on the car.


Here's a thread that talks about chemically stripping the finish with lots of pictures that show why it's not necessary if you're using good technique to start with.

1-Step versus 3-Step Process by Hand


Test Spot
Here's a thread with a video that explains how and why to do a Test Spot before attempting to buff out your entire Mustang. This video uses a Flex 3401 but the principals apply no matter which tool you're using and even if you're working by hand.


How to do a Test Spot using the Flex 3401

The above is a portion taken from this write-up

1957 Chevrolet Belair Extreme Makeover - Flex 3401 & Wolfgang Smackdown!



White paint can be more difficult to see before and after results because of the nature of light colored cars, sometimes it helps to look at the surface from an angle.

Using a single line of tape on a horizontal surface and then only buffing on one side of the tape will make seeing before and after results easier so you can make sure you're getting the results you want and to give yourself the confidence you need to move forward.

Even though white paint is more difficult to see before and after results, you can see them and if you don't have good sunlight available then another option is the Brinkman Swirl Finder Light.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/new-car-care-products/21256-brinkmann-swirl-finder-light.html


How to use the Brinkman Swirl Finder Light

Using the Brinkman Swirl Finder Light is pretty straightforward but here's a few tips to get the best results when exposing swirls.

You want to hold the Brinkman Swirl Finder Light about 12" to 16" away from the surface you're inspecting and hold it at an angle so that the light bounces back to your eyes.

Correct distance to hold the light from the finish
BrinkmanSwirlFinderLight007.jpg



Swirls in the clear coat finish surrounding the dual Xenon light bulbs
BrinkmanSwirlFinderLight008.jpg



Correct hand position when inspecting for swirls - Comfortable, ergonomic grip
BrinkmanSwirlFinderLight009.jpg



Incorrect position - Puts stress on your wrist
BrinkmanSwirlFinderLight010.jpg




:)
 
Thanks Mike for those very detailed responses. The funny thing is most of the links you have posted I already have bookmarked lol. I wanted to have most of the info I would need prior to ordering and using any products. I have one question though. I see in some of the links an IPA is recommened, but I do remember seeing you say that chemical stripping of paint is a no no..I think you referred to it as 'working backwards'. I didn't think of doing an IPA as chemically stripping the paint. In my searches last night I settled on also picking up the Mothers California Gold Pre-Wax Cleaner. So if the IPA step is performing a chemical strip of the paint should I substitute the Pre-Wax cleaner in instead? I'm not trying to ruffle any feathers, it's just that I plan on having the car for a while and want to keep the paint up as long as possible before having to repaint.

This was going to be the process I adopted for my first time:
Wash
Dry
Clay using Clay Pad Applicator and Mothers California Gold Clay Bar
Wash
Dry
IPA
Polish with M105 with White CCS LC Pad(Orange if needed)
Polish with M205 with White CCS LC Pad
Wash with Pre-Wax Cleaner
Dry
Apply Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with Blue CCS LC Pad
Apply 2 coats of Poorboy's World Natty's Paste Wax after sealant cures with Flat Red LC Pad

Any steps you can recommend being added or taken away? Or any product substitutions prior to my purchase?
 
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Stang -
I was in your shoes not to very long ago when trying to decide what to get to get started.

I agree with Dana (Asphalt Rocket) on the Meg's combo being what you need. Keep that in your cart. I also agree that you can use some OTC clay to get you going there and possibly save you a little money now (you will just have to do that math).
From what I have read since I made my purchase and other thoughts on your questions is this:
IMO you don't need a clay pad attachment. Claying isn't hard to do and when you have the surface lubed properly, you can breeze through a clay session pretty quickly. Plus with the clay in your hand you get to feel what is going on.

If I had known then what I know now, I would have bought the Griot's DA (although it wasn't available when I made my first big purchase) and 5.5" polishing and cutting pads. 6.5" works fine for wax and sealant application, but I still end up using some 5.5" red pads I have usually on my sealant (spreads better for me).

Dana is right - you can never have too many pads, but think of this...with fewer pads and a pad washer you will accomplish just as much work, and have a pad cleaner. It isn't a bad idea though to have at least 2 orange and 2 white pads. Understanding that you are only wanting to maintain your vehicles, I am not saying you need a pad washer. But if you get to where you are detailing vehicles much at all, it might be a good thing to consider.

As far as sealant and wax go - if you have read for any time (and it seems like you have) then you know what the preferred ones are. IMO, AG sells great stuff and you can't go wrong with any of the popular ones. It's all opinion after you know you have a good product. Like Mike says: "Find something you like and use it often".

I will say this in regards to the PCXP...I have used mine quite a bit since purchasing it, and have only been disappointed a few times when it would stop turning (with what seems no pressure hardly at all, and holding it as flat as possible). It isn't a bad machine, and I don't wish I didn't have it, but with a slightly more powerful version at the same price (Griot's), there's not much reason not to bite on it.

DLB
 
Thanks Dalton. I've been reading non stop since Tuesday lol(My fiance hates this site now...I told her wait until I get the stuff and detail her car and see if she feels the same lol) I was looking at the clay pad applicator to speed things up a little since this process seems like it will already take a whole day. When I posted what pads I planned on using I didn't specify sizes. After talking to Dana I looked at the M105 & M205 and found out that it's cheaper to get the kit. Plus with the kit you get two MF towel and two 5.5 orange LC pads. That's what's in my car now. So far I have:

MF Bonnets
4 Shamrock MF Towels
Long Handle Tire/Wheel Brush
303 Vinyl Convertible Top Cleaner
303 Aerospace Protectant
Paintwork Clay Pad Applicator
Mothers California Gold Clay Bar
Snappy Clean Pad Cleaning Powder
Meguiars Swirl-Free Kit
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
Poorboy's World Natty's Paste Wax
Mothers California Gold Pre-Wax Cleaner
Duo Spur Wool & Foam Pad Cleaning Tool
Shoulder Holder Microfiber Detailing Apron
Pinnacle Micro Rejuvenator Microfiber Detergent Concentrate 16 oz
3M Scotch 233+ Premium Automotive Masking Tape 36 mm x 32 m


I'm still contemplating everything before I pull the trigger. It seems like I add something after every post! I have everything in there but the DA. I was all set to get the 7424XP based on what I've read and also because I looked at warranties...there's a repair shop for PC Tools in ever place I've lived! That's a huge point....it seems like the XP and the Griot RO are close in all aspects...but the RO has a slight edge in power. I don't know if I want to trade that slight increase in power for relaible service. I keep reading you can do good things with both and that they are on par except for speed..so I figure it will take a little longer to dial-in my technique with the XP as opposed to the RO. Is the XP that bad for corrective work? This may add a new wrinkle in my selection process....
 
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Topless Stang said:
I have one question though. I see in some of the links an IPA is recommended, but I do remember seeing you say that chemical stripping of paint is a no no..I think you referred to it as 'working backwards'.
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The working backwards topic is discussed here,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...roduct-methodology-remove-waxes-sealants.html

Topless Stang said:
In my searches last night I settled on also picking up the Mothers California Gold Pre-Wax Cleaner. So if the IPA step is performing a chemical strip of the paint should I substitute the Pre-Wax cleaner in instead?
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The Mother's Pre-Wax Cleaner is a paint cleaner that you would apply by hand and it would more or less be doing what the M205 is doing, (kind of), that is it's a product used to lightly clean the surface to prepare the surface for application of wax or paint sealant.

Some would say you would want to wipe this off with IPA to remove any polishing oils or ingredients it leaves on the surface.

The idea of wiping with an IPA or something like it is to remove any possible fillers so that you can clearly see the finish quality from your process and to remove any substances that could interfere with the adhesion or bonding of the wax or paint sealant.

In your process, if it were me, after wiping off the M205 I would go straight to your LSP or last step product.


Topless Stang said:
I'm not trying to ruffle any feathers, it's just that I plan on having the car for a while and want to keep the paint up as long as possible before having to repaint.
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No worries, everyone here is mature and discussion forum are for discussing and sometimes that includes different opinions or point of view on how to perform a particular procedure.

Topless Stang said:
This was going to be the process I adopted for my first time:
Wash
Dry
Clay using Clay Pad Applicator and Mothers California Gold Clay Bar
Wash
Dry
IPA
Polish with M105 with White CCS LC Pad(Orange if needed)
Polish with M205 with White CCS LC Pad

Wash with Pre-Wax Cleaner - The Mother's Pre-Wax cleaner is a hand applied paint cleaner, it's a creamy lotion, not a concentrate you add to water like a car wash.

Dry
Apply Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with Blue CCS LC Pad
Apply 2 coats of Poorboy's World Natty's Paste Wax after sealant cures with Flat Red LC Pad

Any steps you can recommend being added or taken away? Or any product substitutions prior to my purchase?
Click to expand...

Skip the pre-wax cleaner step, after wiping off the M205, if you were happy with your test spot results, then go straight to the WDGPS 3.0

Note the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant is an oxygen activated paint sealant and should be left in a moisture free environment for 12 hours before returning the car back to service in order to maximize protection, gloss and slickness.

My guess is that you also don't want to top the WDGPS 3.0 for after 12 hours for the same reason you don't want to get it wet.

Also, when topping one product with another product, first do a test section and make sure you choice of topper is actually improving the results of your initial product.

If you coat over the entire car with your choice of topper how can you tell if it actually improved the results or not?

On white paint by the way, you're not going to get a lot of depth, mostly just gloss.


:)
 
As always Mike you give great info. thanks for the follow up...you just save me some $$ lol. I was reading that it was good practice to add a wax as a topper to most of the sealants here, so that's why I added the Natty's. I just wasn't sure if I'd want to pony up for one of the pricier waxes and not like what I saw. My other option was to get the 2 pack DoDo juice sampler since I could get 2 different waxes, but since I've never waxed my car before I wasn't sure if 30ml would be enough. Granted I wouldn't need as much as most cars since I don't have a roof. But now if I read you right since I have a white car and I won't see that much depth adding a wax may be pointless and a sealant would be good enough. What are your thoughts on that and also what are your thoughts on using the clat pad applicator? I was sold on it since I figure it would shorten my detail time...but now I'm hearing that you can do just as good of a claying job by hand.
 
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Topless Stang said:
As always Mike you give great info. thanks for the follow up...you just save me some $$ lol. I was reading that it was good practice to add a wax as a topper to most of the sealants here, so that's why I added the Natty's.
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I wasn't trying to stop you from topping with Natty's or anything, just giving you some guidelines to work by.

One of the problems with trying to top Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 is that it's pretty hard to beat the results this product achieves all by itself.

From the Wolfgang webpage in the link below,

Wolfgang Concours Series Car Care, paint sealant, german car care products, wolfgang paint sealant, car wax

Thanks to German-discovered “super polymers,” the foundation of our formula, we’ve created a revolutionary paint protector that has the personality of a pure Carnauba wax with the genetic make-up of paint sealant.
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:xyxthumbs:
 
I'm in love with all of these money saving tips :dblthumb2: I'm glad I waited on my purchase. I'll leave out adding wax and just apply the WG sealant as my LSP. Thanks for the input. I'm still trying to get info about the clay applicator pad. Is a good product? Will it help me shorten my claying time? I also just read its recommended to use a backing plate larger than 5". Would you agree with that statement?
 
The reason for the IPA wipedowns is make sure the polish is not "filling". You will find your top detailers use this method to check the true finish. It is well documented on this site and others that polishes do fill to a point. There is nothing worse then after washing your car a couple times and finding slight holograms or pad marring that could have been prevented from doing a simple IPA wipedown.

I understand Mike does not think it is needed or working backwards but being safer than sorry saves you from having to go back to fix something at a later date. If it really wasn't needed I sure other top detailers wouldn't do it either but they are doing it for a reason.

Topless Stang you can use a larger backing plate but there isn't a need to since the best choice of pad for the pc is a 5 inch pad. The XP is not not bad at correcting paint, 5 inch pads and the Megs Compound/Polishes and you will be fine. The only thing with the XP or any other da is that is will take a little longer than a rotary. You will be fine and you have had a lot of great info thrown at you. I just think it is nerves and being new at this that are giving you some doubts but don't fear we will get you through this on the forum.:props:

I am with Mike on topping a sealant, I really have never seen the benefit and if you think about it how can the wax do what it is suppose to do if there is that barrier of sealant not letting it get to the paint itself and do its thing. Now don't get me wrong, Natty's is a great looking wax on its own, but durabilty wise the sealant is the way to go.
 
Thanks Dana. One more question...what type of mixture do you use for doing IPA? Have you ever used the clay pad applicator? I've asked so many people about that and can't remember if I already asked you....my eyes are starting to bleed from all of the reading I've been doing :wow: there's so much info on here lol
 
Topless Stang said:
Thanks Dana. One more question...what type of mixture do you use for doing IPA? Have you ever used the clay pad applicator? I've asked so many people about that and can't remember if I already asked you....my eyes are starting to bleed from all of the reading I've been doing :wow: there's so much info on here lol
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I use it straight, the 91% stuff.

When I clay I use it by hand, this way you can feel for debris get caught under the clay and quickly stop and clean before doing anymore un-needed damage.

I guess you never thought detailing was so detailed-lol. It is like doing anything else, do it righ the first time and you will be rewarded for all your hard work.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
The reason for the IPA wipedowns is make sure the polish is not "filling". You will find your top detailers use this method to check the true finish. It is well documented on this site and others that polishes do fill to a point. There is nothing worse then after washing your car a couple times and finding slight holograms or pad marring that could have been prevented from doing a simple IPA wipedown.

I understand Mike does not think it is needed or working backwards but being safer than sorry saves you from having to go back to fix something at a later date. If it really wasn't needed I sure other top detailers wouldn't do it either but they are doing it for a reason.
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And this is why it's important to note that I posted it's personal preference.

Each person can find a way that works best for them but I don't want everyone that reads this forum to think they have to chemically strip each panel after any correction work to detail a car.

When I type I don't just type for the day, I type for the future and who knows how many people will read this thread and other threads on this topic so I don't want members, future members and lurkers and future lurkers to think that Autogeek recommends chemically stripping the paint on every car they detail.

Dana is a great contributor to this forum as well as other forums and his experience and helpful posts help a lot of people to be successful when tackling their own detailing projects but when it comes to chemically striping or wiping the paint with IPA that is not a must-do recommended procedure it's a personal preference.

Again, there is no right or wrong way to detail a car, everyone can gather information and then find their own way and I for would encourage you to try Dana's recommendation for yourself and then make up your own mind.

:xyxthumbs:
 
Cool...Thanks again. Due to your good advice I dropped the Clay Pad Applicator. Between you and Mike I saved about $30!! :dblthumb2: For my first attempt I'll be doing my 2006 Mustang...after that I'll be doing my fiance's 2006 Taurus. Before I place my supplies order can you think or anything else to add/remove?

3M Scotch 233+ Premium Automotive Masking Tape 36 mm x 32 m
Shoulder Holder Microfiber Detailing Apron
Pinnacle Micro Rejuvenator Microfiber Detergent Concentrate 16 oz
Cobra Microfiber 6.5 inch Bonnets 2 Pack
Cobra Shamrock 750 Microfiber Towel, 16 x 24 inches Buy One, Get One (2)
Long Handle Tire/Wheel Brush
Duo Spur Wool & Foam Pad Cleaning Tool
Snappy Clean Pad Cleaning Powder (3 Pack)
Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System - 2 Clay Bars
Meguiars Swirl-Free Kit for Machine Application
303 Aerospace Protectant 16 oz
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
303 Fabric/Vinyl Convertible Top Cleaner Buy One, Get One Free!

 
Topless Stang said:
Cool...Thanks again. Due to your good advice I dropped the Clay Pad Applicator. Between you and Mike I saved about $30!! :dblthumb2: For my first attempt I'll be doing my 2006 Mustang...after that I'll be doing my fiance's 2006 Taurus. Before I place my supplies order can you think or anything else to add/remove?

3M Scotch 233+ Premium Automotive Masking Tape 36 mm x 32 m
Shoulder Holder Microfiber Detailing Apron
Pinnacle Micro Rejuvenator Microfiber Detergent Concentrate 16 oz
Cobra Microfiber 6.5 inch Bonnets 2 Pack
Cobra Shamrock 750 Microfiber Towel, 16 x 24 inches Buy One, Get One (2)
Long Handle Tire/Wheel Brush
Duo Spur Wool & Foam Pad Cleaning Tool
Snappy Clean Pad Cleaning Powder (3 Pack)
Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System - 2 Clay Bars
Meguiars Swirl-Free Kit for Machine Application
303 Aerospace Protectant 16 oz
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
303 Fabric/Vinyl Convertible Top Cleaner Buy One, Get One Free!

Click to expand...

Not only buying products but getting the clothing to go with it-lol. I really don't see the need of the spur when it is so eay to clean the pads and having a few extras on hand. I would be more concerned about have more microfibers on hand. Also do you have everything for your washing needs, like good waffle weave tools for drying?
 
I saw the waffle weave bogo and thought about picking it up, but I assumed the Shamrock would be better. It's easy to clean on the fly without a brush? In the PC kit I'm buying the XMT Pad Conditioner and Cleaner spray are included. The spray can be used to clean the pad on the fly? How would I remove caked on product? As far as extras go the pads I will have on hand this go around are 2 - 5.5" Orange Flat Pads(They come with the M105 & M205 Kit), 3 White 6.5" CCS Pads(One will not be used to polish, it will be only used under the MF Bonnet), 2 Blue 6.5" CCS Pads & 2 Flat Red Pads.

Are those BOGO waffle weaves good enough for drying?
Blue Waffle Weave Drying Towel, 24 x 29 inches Buy One, Get One Free!

I already picked up a microfiber mit from Autozone I planned on using, it's their brand. My soap is Armorall Ultra Shine Wash 'n Wax. Would you recommend scrapping those and getting something else? Price wise I know I'm not getting the Boar's Hair brush just yet lol. Are two MF Bonnets enough, would I need more of those as well? Also, I'm ordering 4 Shamrock MF Towels and I have one on hand I picked up from Autozone last week(b4 finding this site lol)
 
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SpotlessDetail said:
All seems good to me except there is no need to re wash after claying if you just use water or QD and wipe as you go. Also I would not apply sealant or wax with a buffing pad as it soaks up waaaaay to much product. Good luck
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Not true at all. On the contrary, I can wax a full sized truck by wiping a paste across a black pad. Thats it.
 
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