2006 Toyota Sequoia - Comet Wash - Extreme Makeover - BLACKFIRE One Step

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

2006 Toyota Sequoia - Comet Wash - Extreme Makeover - BLACKFIRE One Step


My friend Joe contacted me about bringing the shine back to his 2006 Toyota Sequoia. After looking at the original single stage white paint I determined that a solid Comet Wash followed by an AGGRESSIVE machine correction using BLACKFIRE One Step would do the job.

Apologies ahead of time I didn't take a lot of before shots or process shots, this was all about grunt work.


Process

In this order,

1. Machine scrub tires
2. Clean wheels
3. Machine polish glass before washing
4. Comet Wash
5. Dry car

After car was washed and dried,

1. Treat faded plastic trim
2. Dress tires
3. Machine sand headlights - buff and ceramic coat - Marine 31 Vessel Coat

Paint Correction

Step 1: Machine polish paint using BLACKFIRE One Step, RUPES 180mm Yellow Foam CP Pads and FLEX Supa BEAST on speed 6 PUSHING HARD for 8 to 10 section passes over each square millimeter of paint.


Step 2: Topped with PBL Surface Coating




Here's a few before pictures,

NOTE: The Comet Technique is ONLY for single stage paint. Do not use this technique on clearcoated cars.

Sorry, no action shots of the washing or any of the other steps I did.



Here's the hood before

Note at this point all of the rest of the Sequoia is done including machine polishing tail lights, re-polishing all glass with the BLACKFIRE One Step.


BEFORE

Here I used an Autogeek Cover-up Towel to cover and protect the dull, oxidized paint from any BLACKFIRE splatter.

Here's half and half...

REMEMBER - This is SINGLE STAGE PAINT - But look at the clarity, gloss and richness of color?

And here's how the paint looked before BLACKFIRE One Step...

Headlight Restoration

I machine sanded the headlights using Mirka Abralon #2000, #3000 and #4000 sanding discs then used Pinnacle Advanced Compound with RUPES wool pad on the FLEX Cordless Rotary Polisher to remove the sanding marks and restore optical clarity. After using the wool pad on the rotary I also used a foam pad on the FLEX Supa BEAST with the same compound to remove any holograms. The headlights were then chemical stripped, (in other words I used a Panel Wipe), and I applied the Marine 31 Vessel Ceramic Coating.

Here's the final results...

Exterior Plastic Polishing

All clear exterior plastic was machine polished using the BLACKFIRE One Step.

Topical Glass Polishing

All exterior glass was machine polished using Diamondite Glass Polish with a RUPES 180mm Coarse Wool Polishing Pad and the FLEX Cordless PE14 before washing. Later the glass was re-polished using BLACKFIRE One Step with a foam pad on the FLEX Supa BEAST.

Look how perfect the glass looks?

Not bad for a daily driver that is 15 years old and the last time it was detailed was 7-8 years ago...

Here's most of what I used...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

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And if you want to get any of this stuff for your own car detailing projects...



BLACKFIRE One Step 32 oz. - $40.00 - Best deal without going to the gallon size.


FLEX Supa BEAST - the part number is FLEX XCE 10-8 125 Corded Polisher - $436.00



The above Supa BEAST comes with a 5" backing plate. I switched mine over to the optional 6" backing plate so I can take full advantage of all the power this tool offers.

FLEX Multi-Polisher 6 inch Backing Plate - $25.00


FLEX PE-150 Cordless Rotary Polisher - $600.00



Here's really nice backing plate for 7" and 8" pads

Flex-Foam HD Rotary Backing Plate, 6 inches - $22.00



Solution Finish Black Plastic & Vinyl Restorer 12 oz. - $40.00

Solution Finish Over the Top Plastic Sealer - (Autogeek does not carry this product at this time, it's a SEALER for the Solution Finish)



Pinnacle Advanced Compound 16 oz. - $50.00


Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating - $130.00 - Spendy but really nice product


RUPES DA Yellow Fine Foam Pad - 7 Inch (180mm) - $12.00 each


7 inch RUPES Coarse Wool Polishing Pad (180mm) - $23.00 each


Diamondite Glass Polish - $14.00


RUPES iBrid Nano Long Neck Starter Kit $441.00


RUPES NANO Horsehair Cup Brush - $12.00







Other misc tools and products I used...

Autogeek Detailing Cover-Up Towel




For machine scrubbing the tires

Rotary 4 ¾ inch Flexible Backing Plate - $17.00

Heavy-Duty DA Carpet Brush – Long Bristles - $18.00

TUF SHINE Tire Cleaner 24 oz. - $13.00




For cleaning wheels

SONAX Wheel Cleaner PLUS - $24.00

Wheel Woolies Boar’s Hair Wheel Brush - $37.00




Lots of these towels for the BLACKFIRE One Step

The Rag Company FTW Premium Orange Microfiber Towel - $6.00 each


And these towels for the PBL Surface Coating

Cobra 12 Pack Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloths $20.00 for a dozen



For washing,

BLACKFIRE Foam Soap 32 oz. - $25.00

Cobra Supreme Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt - $10.00

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

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For machine sanding the headlights, I used everything I showcase here,


Review: Griot's Garage G8 Headlight Sander

 

[Skier404]

I like seeing your daily driver work! Always good examples of what potential there is in vehicles that get used. As always nice work and very informative Mike!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I like seeing your daily driver work! Always good examples of what potential there is in vehicles that get used.

As always nice work and very informative Mike!

Thank you.

The owner Joe, whom I've sent the link to this write-up, says his girlfriend didn't think the paint could be saved. Thought a better option would be to repaint the SUV. Joe came by today to pick up some maintenance supplies as he's driving the Sequoia back to New York tomorrow.

He told me his girlfriend was shocked and impressed at how nice the paint came back. Same comment from his son.


He picked up a bottle of the Pinnacle Black Label Surface Coating to maintain the paint and the glass. Also the new Diamondite Insect Armor to apply to the front of the Sequoia for the trip back to New York. Also some SONAX Wheel Cleaner to make keeping the wheels clean.


Also just to comment - Joe told me while driving around in the rain yesterday, he could easily see the water flying off the hood and the windshield due to the PBL Surface Coating. I shared with him my approach to maintaining water-proof glass and that is SIMPLY to mist a little on once in a while to maintain the hydrophobic surface.

Quick, fast and easy.

A MUCH better approach than trying to seal a windshield with any type of one-and-done or set-it-and-forget-it type product.

It's real simple to figure out - if a RUBBER blade is rubbing over the glass it's going to MICRO-ABRADE anything off the glass.


And - it's always about finding product you like and then using them often.

 

[Me Time]

Nice job Mike. I know from reading other posts that your not a real fan of white, but you really turned this around.

Greg

 

[Me Time]

Just wondering , are these your favorite go to products at the moment ?

 

[Sizzle Chest]

He will be floored when he sees it!

 

[soobaroo]

That is really an incredible transformation. The hood shots show such a difference. That must have taken some serious hours to do. Great job!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Nice job Mike.

Thank you.

To get the results you see from a foam "polishing" pad and a one-step cleaner/wax in ONE pass around the SUV - the technique was to PUSH EXTREMELY HARD for every section pass. This type of buffing is only possible when all the right conditions are present.

1: Great abrasive technology. Polishing paint successfully always STARTS with what is touching the paint - not the pad, the person or the tool.

2: The right paint. I've done this with both single stage and basecoat/clearcoat paint system but the paint has to be "polish-able". That is, not too hard, not too soft.

I know from reading other posts that your not a real fan of white, but you really turned this around.

Greg

Usually when I read a comment like the above it is in the context of one of the oldest articles I've written dating back to 1997.


The Lesson White Paint Teaches Us


And what I wrote in that article is in the context of colorful paints, white is boring. And I still feel the same way. I don't dislike paint and in fact I own a white car but compared to other colors it is a tick on the boring side. The exception would be Pearl White, Special Effects White and Tri-color Pearl White paint job.


But yeah... using Comet to knock down some of the dead, oxidized paint as well as bonded contaminants, then using great abrasive technology with a powerful tool and a really nice foam polishing pad and the key element - pushing the tool hard throughout the entire paint correction process - the paint came back looking as good and probably better than new.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Just wondering , are these your favorite go to products at the moment ?

Comet has been a staple in my car and boat detailing arsenal for probably 25 years.

The Supa BEAST is my "current" preferred choice for gear-driven orbital polisher as I find it to be the most effective and the fastest option when it comes to paint correction while maintaining pro-grade results. The BLACKFIRE One Step uses great abrasive technology and as a "Paint Polisher", not only do I believe this is THE most important factor when it comes to polishing paint or anything - I believe it so much I teach this and wrote an article by the same title.

Abrasive Technology - THE most important factor when it comes to polishing paint

And the reason it's important for everyone to understand that abrasive technology is THE most important component of polishing a surface is because there is JUNK on the market. If you've watched any of our LIVE detailing classes I've discussed this numerous times in the last year and I state the issue like this,

When it comes to abrasive technology a product either works GREAT or it's JUNK. There is no in-between. There is no gray area. There are no products that work... kind of good.

Great abrasive technology means the product can remove defects WITHOUT leaving behind its own defects.

Junk abrasive technology means the product removes defects but in the case of when you're using any type or brand of orbital polisher - the product leaves MICRO-MARRING in the surface.


So products either work or they don't. And I've shared multiple multiple cars I've personally detailed on this forum and I only use products that use great abrasive technology. I will not use junk and I never bring junk products into the garage for my classes.


As for the other products I listed in post #2 - I use and will recommend all of these products.

He will be floored when he sees it!

The owner Joe, actually watched me from start to finish. I'm never ashamed or try to hide any of the techniques or products I use to detail a car. I'm actually glad he watched. When I told him my price for what I call Package 1, he thought the price was a tick high. I was honest with him and explained what the process of taking his Sequoia from neglected to respected would entail and the time it would take and at some point, he believed and trusted me and I performed exactly as promised.

Here's a text Joe sent me,

Hi Mike, it was a pleasure watching you work and explain the products and proper application of the products to my 2006 Toyota Sequoia. You are a true expert and professional.


I appreciate that he appreciates my work ethic and hard work.


When he stopped by yesterday to pick up some maintenance products I stressed the importance of "doing something" once in a while to the results that were created. Maintain the finish on a 15-year old car that's "single stage" paint is just that - it's doing something once in a while - otherwise it will simply go down hill.

I have confidence that Joe will in fact take care of his Toyota and I'm also confident I'll see him again when he returns to Stuart from New York.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

That is really an incredible transformation. The hood shots show such a difference. That must have taken some serious hours to do. Great job!

From start to finish I believe I was at just under 8 hours. Washing the wheels, tires, machine polishing the glass and then Cometizing the body panels plus a solid re-wash to ensure all the Comet and dead paint were flushed off the Sequoia took 3 hours by itself - and "yes" I timed myself.

The actual paint polishing using the SUPA BEAST - pushing hard took around 3 hours and one of the time killers was knocking out the roof as you have to get up and down multiple times on work platforms to make the magic happen.

This is also why we as detailers have to charge more when detailing anything that is TALL. A car is simple as most of us can reach to the middle of the roof without assistance. But an SUV or any type of truck - that will require extra time and detailing cars is like any other professional service.

Charging comes down to,

1. Time
2. Labor
3. Materials

It's really that simple.

 

[ducksfan]

I was curious of your take on single stage paint vs. base coat/clear coat in our present times. With all the coatings available and the longevity of wipe on/wipe off products, do you see an advantage to single stage paint going forward?

If you had a vehicle that needed a repaint (and was going to be maintained by you) would you go single stage or BC/CC.

 

[crg001]

Incredible work, Mike! I love seeing normal cars receive this level of transformation. One Step is an awesome product.

For the horsehair attachment on the iBrid, what did you use that tool for in this process?

 

[Thomkirby]

I glad you mentioned the work required on the roof. If the hood looked bad then that roof was ever more so. And with those roof panels that becomes a bigger job with the raised metal work. Most people rarely look or wash the tops and it creates a bigger job when it comes to doing it 'right'.

I am glad you had him watching the process, so he will know the cost factors involved to do it correctly. Now the maintenance cycle starts and sounds like you have him armed and ready to stay with it.

So impressive!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Incredible work, Mike! I love seeing normal cars receive this level of transformation. One Step is an awesome product.

Agree.

For the horsehair attachment on the iBrid, what did you use that tool for in this process?

For some cars, where the paint inside the emblems is dirty, oxidized and neglected, I use the Horse Hair Brush on the Nano to machine scrub this area.

• Sometimes with soap and water.
• Sometimes with an APC and waterless wash
• Sometimes with Glass Cleaner.

And sometimes, (and that would be this instance), I use a one-step cleaner/wax i.e. BLACKFIRE One Step. I just plaster some One Step into and around the emblem and then go nuts on the emblem with the Nano and Horse Hair Brush in rotary mode.

It cleans the hell out of the paint and the emblem.

Then I take the Tornador Black Air Blow Out Gun and blow and wipe and blow and wipe and blow and wipe.


By the time I'm done - it looks brand new again.

Again - apologies for no pictures. So often I do a lot of complicated and/or out of the box type work and take pictures and after investing the time to take the pictures and then create a detailed write-up - zero comments. So sometimes I become disheartened and just don't care to take pictures.

 

[Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN]

Mike, I use the Wolfgang SiO2 Rinseless wash for washing vehicles I've used your process of polishing the paint with BF One Step and then topping with the PBL Diamond Surface Coating.

What's your opinion of also applying the Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Coating Booster at each maintence wash and then applying another coat of the Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating once every 3 months as a maintence regimen?

How do you think these products will react with the Wolfgang SiO2 Rinseless Wash?

I chose the Wolfgang SiO2 Rinseless Wash because on the AG website it says, "Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Rinseless Wash can be used to keep your ceramic coated surfaces looking good as new."

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

For the horsehair attachment on the iBrid, what did you use that tool for in this process?

Here’s the emblem I’m talking about.

I slathered some One Step all over it - “yes” real messy-like and then went nuts with the horse hair brush in ROTARY mode.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[IH8SPM]

@Mike Phillips I can't find COMET on the site for purchase . The ultimate secret weapon. Excellent work.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I was curious of your take on single stage paint vs. base coat/clear coat in our present times. With all the coatings available and the longevity of wipe on/wipe off products, do you see an advantage to single stage paint going forward?

One thing for sure, with a modern URETHANE single stage paint system like Toyota uses, (not old school lacquer or enamel paints), your car will NEVER get clearcoat failure.

There's no secondary layer of paint to fail or disintegrate. The single stage Toyota urethane paint system will OXIDIZE - but ALL of us can fix oxidation.

None of us can fix clearcoat failure. When a basecoat/clearcoat paint system fails or disintegrates - the only true and honest fix is to repaint the car.

For this reason - a single stage paint system trumps the basecoat/clearcoat paint system.

If you had a vehicle that needed a repaint (and was going to be maintained by you) would you go single stage or BC/CC.

That is a great question and knowing what I know now? I would opt for a single stage urethane paint system, probably in orange.



Great questions... thank you for asking.


Are you the guy in Eugene, Oregon?