2006 white toyota tundra help!!!!!

M

mountainmedic

New member
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Hello everyone i am new here but have been researching on here for several months. I broke down and bought a pc 7424 da polisher to do my vehicles and family vehicles aslong with some pb products and have had great results so far (only buffing my wifes honda oddyssey and my father-in-laws brand new gmc). So i am diffinately a newbie in the buffing world but have always been obsessed with keeping my vehicles clean. However with life and kids and no time my 2006 toyota tundra has been neglected for a while and now the paint (single stage from what i can understand and the worst paint i have had on any vehicle) is oxidized and looks horrible. I have used cleaner waxes on it and helps very little. So before i set in on it what do i need to restore this truck. I just placed an order of pb ssr1 and have pb ex , pb polish with sealant, pb black hole glaze and pb natty liquid blue. I was looking at duragloss 501 because of the reviews on its cleaning ability. Please someone help this newbie i am lost but love detailing vehicles.
 
I too am curious as to what you have available......DG 501 is great product and used correctly can get the results your looking for.

If you can provide a little more info......this forum can help!
 
Sorry I forgot to put that in earlier. I have a yellow, white, and, black ccs pads one of each and a blue and green double sided pad coming should be here end of the week. The green double sided pad is light cut and the blue is a finishing pad. I was also confused about the DG 501 because it being marine rv polish.
 
I just did the exact same truck last week. I hate to say it, if you're planning on doing the truck in one sitting, you need more pads. That's a lot of paint to cover. The owner of the Tundra hardly ever did anything to his truck, needless to say it was horrid. Absolutely no reflection at all! After my usual prep, I measured the paint and got many different readings. Based on my findings, I used Hd speed with hybrid orange and blue pads with my flex and LC orange pads on my PC. All together 16 pads used. Even though speed is an all in one, knowing the owner wasn't going to keep up with it, I topped it off with Poxy.
 
As Jay's 128i said, you'll need more pads, especially cutting stage. Lot of ground to cover.
I also think you need something stronger than PB SSR 1, maybe 2 or 2.5 to be in the PB range you seem to enjoy, for cutting.
The best scenario would be a rotary with a wool for removing the oxidized paint, and then polish and finish with the pc. The pc alone will take ages, if the truck is as bad as you said it is. But it is your car, not a customer's, so no deadline, you can go slow and steady.
In case you decide to go with what you got, take it easy, do a test spot, read briarpatch link, and do it with no hurry.
Good luck and best regards
 
Many current vehicle in white are single stage to this day..
I know my merc paint is.. (2015)
 
The only problem is I have never used a standard buffer because of fear of burning the paint. Also what about the DG 501 over the #7 he talks about in the thread I read. Just curious
 
I'm sure Mike will answer, but #7 (as he points out) is really only good for older single stage paint. Like from around 20 years ago. I've never used DG501, mainly because it advertised as a marine and RV polish. However, it does get good reviews. I'm fairly certain that if used, it will perform well. Some say the product matters most, others (including myself) say technique matters most. Either way, white Toyota paint is very hard which makes it a bugger at times to correct. I will also say that Adapt is an awesome product to look at. Depending on which pad you use determines its aggressiveness.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top