9.999/10 issues with paint can be boiled down to procedural rather than product...
I would say M105 with a Microfiber Cutting Disc or even Finishing Disc on the DA with medium pressure and slow arm speed (1 inch per second), coulped with 2 rotations of the backing plate per second should GREATLY improve results.....
There isnt a recipe for paint correction. What has worked for one person on a particluar paint may not work on another. There are almost an infinite number of variables to consider. Here's an example of a common reason why paints on the same vehicle may differ:
Take, for example, two of the exact model cars, say 5 years old, painted back to back in the same factory. Each of these vehicles finishes has the possibility to react in a completely different fashion to identical corrective steps. This could be because Car A was shipped to Arizona and was a primary daily driver, subject to being parked outside in the intensely hot desert sun. Also, year after year minimal paint maintenance was performed, allowing the elements to wear the clear coat dangerously thin. Whereas, Car B was shipped to southern California and was made into a weekend cruiser/garage queen and the owners hobby was to care for the paint every 3 months on the dot so the car remained flawless.
With this example, it is easy to understand how these two cars, painted within minutes of each other in the same factory, could have completely different paint characteristics when reacting to similar buffing processes. Therefore, it’s absolutely imperative to approach paint correction of these two vehicles with greatly differing approaches.
This doesnt even address other common issues such as resprayed panels, previous details, chemical products on the paint, coatings (dealership or aftermarket) etc etc...
So relying solely on a product to get work done is a risky proposition that wont necessarily translate into positive results. Considering the reasoning why a certain product or process isnt working can help to greater successes down the road.
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