2011 Black Denaili with waterspots

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Cbennett

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I'm a Newbee... to AGO I need some advise. I bought my Yukon maybe two weeks ago now.. Go to wash it for the first time and noticed the waterspots that wouldn't go away after drying with my chamois.
So now after watching mikes videos and reviewing you guys post, I'm about to pull the trigger on the porter cable 7424xp w extra pads, soap gun, grit guards, I got the hardware covered I think. The the products, I'm having a had time filtering what till make this black metallic pop. Wolfgang, dodo juice, etc. do you mix products or stay with one line. My neighbor just gave me some p21s paint cleanser and wax...

Any advise would be greatly appreciated...
 
In my opinion I would get the Griots polisher with the 5" backing plate 5.5" orange, white, grey and blue pads. The blue pad you can drop if you plan on hand application of wax/sealant. I would get 2 pads of each. For the other items I would get the following. M105, M205 and a good sealant and wax. Don't for get to get a Quick detailer and clay to decontaminate the paint.

Another alternative for a newbie is the McGuiars DA Microfiber system. I would still get the Griots 6" polisher with this as well.

Good luck.

Ed
 
Ed,

Thanks.... I'm a true newbie to this forum think sorry for the delay in responding. Forgot my login. I'm gonna place the order this weekend. Do you recommend a good sealant/wax. Also is there a safe wheel cleaner for chrome. And wait to you use to clean/condition the leather.
 
Pinnacle Souveran is an excellent product. Also the McGuiars ultimate wax is a good over the counter product as well a mothers synthetic wax which is available OTC. The best wax that I want to try is Fuzion available on autogeek. Another good one is Poorboys exp with the carnauba wax. Just do some research and pick one out.
 
Hi and welcome to the forum. I think the problem is , you are washing when the metal is too hot or your chamois does not help


I would do this
get 2 buckets with grit guard inserts

1 bucket car soap and water and the other plain water

Wash and dry

I would also purchase a guzzler towel , you might want the ultimate one as its the biggest

Have heard great things about blackfire wet diamond and collinite 845 you might want to top 845 with blackfire
 
Eandras said:
In my opinion I would get the Griots polisher with the 5" backing plate 5.5" orange, white, grey and blue pads. The blue pad you can drop if you plan on hand application of wax/sealant. I would get 2 pads of each. For the other items I would get the following. M105, M205 and a good sealant and wax. Don't for get to get a Quick detailer and clay to decontaminate the paint.

Another alternative for a newbie is the McGuiars DA Microfiber system. I would still get the Griots 6" polisher with this as well.

Good luck.

Ed
Click to expand...


silly question. I know M105 and M205 are great. Adding that to my collection. But for polishing, what if one were to use griots machine polish 3. wouldn't that save one step and not have to polish the car twice? This of course, if the paint is not so bad. Im still learning so bare with me lol
 
Cbennett said:
The the products, I'm having a had time filtering what till make this black metallic pop. Wolfgang, dodo juice, etc. do you mix products or stay with one line. My neighbor just gave me some p21s paint cleanser and wax...
Click to expand...

Sticking to one product line is always a good idea as you can safely assume each compound/polish/wax were created to work in harmony; M105/M205 is a classic example. If you don't have a lot of swirls or below surface paint defects to correct you could probably get by with just M205, p21s (or something similar) to remove the water spots and amp up the shine on your rig.

A claybar kit and clay lube is an absolute necessity. Even on black paint if you can't see all the little specks of iron and tar THEY ARE STILL THERE and they are slowly etching into your paint further and further.

My process (in general terms, having not seen the car) would be:

- Wash with strong mix of soap to strip previous layers of glaze/wax, rinse
- Clay entire vehicle (I would also recommend Iron-X but not entirely necessary... it will just take longer to clay without it)
- Test spot with a light polishing pad and M205 or p21s since you said that is what you already have.
- If achieved desired results: duplicate that process around the entire car.
- If defects remain: step up to a heavier compound and/or pad combination until the paint looks acceptable to your standards.
- Work for hours, and hours, and hours.
- Apply wax or sealant
- Step back and enjoy the shine.
- Eat a baconator (they taste fantastic after polishing out an SUV) :props:
 
stangfreak said:
silly question. I know M105 and M205 are great. Adding that to my collection. But for polishing, what if one were to use griots machine polish 3. wouldn't that save one step and not have to polish the car twice? This of course, if the paint is not so bad. Im still learning so bare with me lol
Click to expand...

I have never used GG Machine Polish 3 but I can tell you that there are some reasons a 2 step polishing system like M105/M205 work extremely well.

M105, on most of the cars I have worked on, with a DA polisher will leave slight micromarring or haze. On harder paints or metallics it is sometimes very hard to see... you have to be like 3 inches away from the paint with the Brinkman. For some people that could be enough and they will consider the car ready for wax or sealant.

For black or softer paint systems, following up with M205 is a necessity. It will remove the rest of the hazing, micromarring, (or holograms from rotary application) from the compounding step. The amount of gloss and distinction of image you gain from M205 is just too much to skip.

Another option is a diminishing abrasives compound/polish... something like CarPro Fixer. With this you could level defects and polish down to a swirl free finish in one step as the abrasives diminish into an ever finer polish (in theory and depending on the paint/pads/tool/technique/etc).
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
I have never used GG Machine Polish 3 but I can tell you that there are some reasons a 2 step polishing system like M105/M205 work extremely well.

M105, on most of the cars I have worked on, with a DA polisher will leave slight micromarring or haze. On harder paints or metallics it is sometimes very hard to see... you have to be like 3 inches away from the paint with the Brinkman. For some people that could be enough and they will consider the car ready for wax or sealant.

For black or softer paint systems, following up with M205 is a necessity. It will remove the rest of the hazing, micromarring, (or holograms from rotary application) from the compounding step. The amount of gloss and distinction of image you gain from M205 is just too much to skip.

Another option is a diminishing abrasives compound/polish... something like CarPro Fixer. With this you could level defects and polish down to a swirl free finish in one step as the abrasives diminish into an ever finer polish (in theory and depending on the paint/pads/tool/technique/etc).
Click to expand...

100% correct. The M105 does need a follow up, which is why the second step is needed. I have seen pictures of car's with that combo and the end result's are awesome.

I was just saying why not start out with a polish like griots machine polish 3 that doesn't need a second step. Just a thought that's all. Im going to be testing it out soon with my DA.
 
stangfreak said:
100% correct. The M105 does need a follow up, which is why the second step is needed. I have seen pictures of car's with that combo and the end result's are awesome.

I was just saying why not start out with a polish like griots machine polish 3 that doesn't need a second step. Just a thought that's all. Im going to be testing it out soon with my DA.
Click to expand...

I did a red Dodge Dakota that was pretty swirled out with a few spots. It turned out pretty sweet:
- wash
- no clay as paint was actually smooth, just swirled and a little dull
- PC7424XP with LC orange pad with Megs M205
- Megs Gold Class liquid wax
The truck belonged to my Uncle and he brought the wax.
Maybe try a combo similar to that for your Denali
 
Well everyone has an opinion, so here is mine:

- I would not buy a GG Polisher, especially as your first machine. First reason is, they have been known to generate too much heat and melt foam pads.

It's critical to not let your pad get saturated with product and to not run this machine at high speeds for long periods of time, as the machine can create more heat than its able to release. This can cause (and has caused) many new to machine polishing to cook pads and backing plates.

Since your new, I'm assuming you don't have a lot of extra pads to switch them out frequently, or have a spare backing plate in case one melts. I think the PC 7424 is a better designed machine that you would rarely (if ever) have this issue with. Not to mention there have been several threads on here about Griots machines that have died.

- Also, I wouldn't recommend the M105/205 combo in your situation. First, it may not be the most user friendly combo to learn how to polish with.

M105 is a powerful compound with a short work time that is great for a pro detailer. But for a new guy with water spots on his new truck it's probably overkill. Remember, compounding removes paint, and you want to remove as little as possible.

You may instill more marring with the M105 that is required to remove the defects, and M205 may not always be a fine enough polish to finish with on black.

I think you would be much better off with a polish (not a compound) and a fine polish. I would recommend a pair from Menzerna, Optimum, or Wolfgang. On a new truck, you may only need a fine polish if the only defects are water spots.

- I wouldn't recommend microfiber pads either. This is another product that can cut fast and remove heavier defects (and more paint). The right foam pads and polish are probably all you will need to remove defects on a new truck, unless its in poor shape. Also foam will always finish, better, which may be important since you are new and working on black paint.

- for a great look, I would try a sealant topped with a wax. If you spend $50 at AutoGeek, you can get a free 2oz sample of Blackfire or Wolfgang Sealant. This is more than enough to do a truck, let it cure, then top it with the P21S. This will also give better durability than a wax alone.
 
Thanks for all of the advice,
After all of the consideration I have narrowed down to the BlackFire, Menzerna, and Wolfgang. I was just given the green light by the boss lady to get the Flex HD DP.. But the one thing I'm noticing is that Menzerna is making most of the higher end polishes. So in turn should I go straight to the Menzerna product line, in which I have hear good things about, however I have hear that it was a real dusty product to work with. Also can you Clay windows, I have the etching on the windows as well. I was looking at claying the windows and/or the CG waterspot remover any luck with anyone of those products.
 
I've found the Menz to dust quite a lot, mind you, I'm not exactly an expert so it may be my technique that's the problem. As for claying windows, I was under the impression you need to be careful with tints?
 
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