2012 Lancer EVO X MR

DeviousDetail

DeviousDetail

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I am going to start this thread out by introducing the detailing I will be doing next weekend and to get some input on ordering a few new things.

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I am imagining that the paint is already in excellent condition, so it wont need much compounding and polishing.

Here are my plans:

1. Wash Wheels and Tires Using Chemical Guys Signature Series Wheel Cleaner and various brushes. Car Pro Iron X will be used to remove any Iron and contaminants.

2. I will then follow with a 20 minute Pre-Soak. Soap to be determined. (Current Stock is: Chemical Guys Mr. Pink, Honeydew, GlossWorks, Citrus Wash) *Trying to get the hot water hooked up in my garage by next weekend.

3. This will then be followed by a two bucket wash using. Chemical Guys Honeydew for the soap. (Will finalize after deciding what new stuff I want to order.)

4. I will Foam the car using undetermined soap.

5. Car will then be dried and clayed using Chemical Guys Fine Grade Clay and Clay Lube. (May decide to use my Nano Skin Mitt)

6. Will complete full Vehicle inspection form.

7. Tape and prep for compounding and polishing.

8. Compounding (Either ordering new or using Chemical Guys (V34, V36, V38 or CarPro Reflect Polish with either Lake County Ultrafiber Pads or Hexlogic Pads.)

9. Polishing

10. IPA Wipe down to remove all oils

11. The Interior of the car looks pretty good so I don't imagine that I will need to do much other than maybe applying some sort of protection on the seats.

Screenshot_2013-11-02-01-06-32-1_zps1b1607ff.png


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12. After the vehicle has been fully polished and all oils have been removed we will begin applying the Cquartz UK Edition Coating.

13. Plastic and rubber will be coated using CarPro CQuartz DLux Plastic & Wheel Coating.

14. If needed Glass will be polished using CarPro CeriGlass and then coated with CarPro FlyBy30 Windshield & Glass Coating.

15. Interior Glass will be coated with CarPro Fog Fight.

I may change this in order to meet clients budget but as of right now this is my plan.

Let me know what you guys think as far as products and my process is planned. Also let me know if you think I could leave some things out.
 
Looks good. Just an FYI, after owning and detailing a couple evos myself. The paint is very thin.

10 Mitsu Evo X: 2.2~2.6 mils
 
Sweet ride, I'd go with Menzerna or Wolfgang for your polishes IMO.

This is Wolfgang system on my Genesis Coupe.

WG Finishing Glaze (white pad) , WDGP 3.0 (black pad) and 2 coats of Fuzion hand applied.

With the SEMA sale going on right now a Wolfgang kit would be a bargain.

 
I have decided on:
CQuartz DLux Plastic and Wheel Coating
Car Pro Ceriglass Polish
Car Pro Flyby30
Car Pro Fog Fight
Car Pro Cquartz Ceramic Paint Protection Kit
and Probably the Car Pro Reflect Polish
 
I have a red Evo x, like said above paint is thin be careful. Nice car though, hopefully you don't run into too many problems lol
 
Why do you expect the car's paint to be in excellent condition?
 
Another cool car gone the way of the Dual Clutch Transmission. Yes, I know they are faster, but man it just takes the fun out of it!

Looks cool man. Good luck!
 
DeviousDetail said:
Here are my plans:

1. Wash Wheels and Tires Using Chemical Guys Signature Series Wheel Cleaner and various brushes. Car Pro Iron X will be used to remove any Iron and contaminants.

2. I will then follow with a 20 minute Pre-Soak. Soap to be determined. (Current Stock is: Chemical Guys Mr. Pink, Honeydew, GlossWorks, Citrus Wash) *Trying to get the hot water hooked up in my garage by next weekend.

3. This will then be followed by a two bucket wash using. Chemical Guys Honeydew for the soap. (Will finalize after deciding what new stuff I want to order.)

4. I will Foam the car using undetermined soap.

5. Car will then be dried and clayed using Chemical Guys Fine Grade Clay and Clay Lube. (May decide to use my Nano Skin Mitt)

6. Will complete full Vehicle inspection form.

7. Tape and prep for compounding and polishing.

8. Compounding (Either ordering new or using Chemical Guys (V34, V36, V38 or CarPro Reflect Polish with either Lake County Ultrafiber Pads or Hexlogic Pads.)

9. Polishing

10. IPA Wipe down to remove all oils

11. The Interior of the car looks pretty good so I don't imagine that I will need to do much other than maybe applying some sort of protection on the seats.


12. After the vehicle has been fully polished and all oils have been removed we will begin applying the Cquartz UK Edition Coating.

13. Plastic and rubber will be coated using CarPro CQuartz DLux Plastic & Wheel Coating.

14. If needed Glass will be polished using CarPro CeriGlass and then coated with CarPro FlyBy30 Windshield & Glass Coating.

15. Interior Glass will be coated with CarPro Fog Fight.

I may change this in order to meet clients budget but as of right now this is my plan.

Let me know what you guys think as far as products and my process is planned. Also let me know if you think I could leave some things out.
Click to expand...

1. You can probably cut out a step on the wheels if you use something like Sonax Full Effect. It will remove iron and clean the wheels saving the need for iron-x.

2. You should foam with Honeydew (it's designed for foam gun) and wash with Citrus Wash Red. Citrus wash will do a better job of cleaning the grime off.

3. If you use the nano skin mitt, just leave the car wet, foam it again and use your clean bucket of soapy water as lube for the mitt. You will save A LOT of time doing it this way.

4. If you are going to polish the glass, do it first. Ceri Glass makes a huge mess with splatter and that will need to be cleaned off. You don't want the abrasive splatter all over your freshly polished paint.

5. It sounds like you have a lot of work planned, make sure you are being compensated adequately.


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af90 said:
Why do you expect the car's paint to be in excellent condition?
Click to expand...

I expect the paint to be in excellent condition because this was a showroom floor vehicle and has barely been driven and I personally know the owner and know for a fact that his vehicles are well kept.
 
ekennett said:
1. You can probably cut out a step on the wheels if you use something like Sonax Full Effect. It will remove iron and clean the wheels saving the need for iron-x.

2. You should foam with Honeydew (it's designed for foam gun) and wash with Citrus Wash Red. Citrus wash will do a better job of cleaning the grime off.

3. If you use the nano skin mitt, just leave the car wet, foam it again and use your clean bucket of soapy water as lube for the mitt. You will save A LOT of time doing it this way.

4. If you are going to polish the glass, do it first. Ceri Glass makes a huge mess with splatter and that will need to be cleaned off. You don't want the abrasive splatter all over your freshly polished paint.

5. It sounds like you have a lot of work planned, make sure you are being compensated adequately.


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Click to expand...


Thanks for the advice. I am being compensated very adequately. I personally know the owner so I am giving him a good deal, but will still be making profit.

Would you recommend then to clean and polish the glass then follow by doing the 20 min presoak and 2 bucket wash?
 
custmsprty said:
Sweet ride, I'd go with Menzerna or Wolfgang for your polishes IMO.

This is Wolfgang system on my Genesis Coupe.

WG Finishing Glaze (white pad) , WDGP 3.0 (black pad) and 2 coats of Fuzion hand applied.

With the SEMA sale going on right now a Wolfgang kit would be a bargain.

Click to expand...


Did you mean WG TSR on a white pad and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze on a Black pad or did you go straight from WGTSR to Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant?
 
DeviousDetail said:
Thanks for the advice. I am being compensated very adequately. I personally know the owner so I am giving him a good deal, but will still be making profit.

Would you recommend then to clean and polish the glass then follow by doing the 20 min presoak and 2 bucket wash?
Click to expand...

Why a 20 minute pre soak? Aren't you worried about soap drying on the paint?

Yes, I would definitely do all the glass work before even washing the car.


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When looking at the deals that they have on Auto Geek, I noticed that they had a Cquartz kit for a pretty good deal but it doesn't come with CQuartz UK Edition.

Think CQuartz would be enough for this harsh Chicago Weather or do you think I should drop the extra coin on the UK version?
 
ekennett said:
Why a 20 minute pre soak? Aren't you worried about soap drying on the paint?

Yes, I would definitely do all the glass work before even washing the car.


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Click to expand...

I would be washing it in a temperature controlled garage so no I am not worried about the soap drying. If I start to notice that an area is getting to the point that it would start drying I hit it with more foam. I try to touch the paint as little as possible.
 
Actually looks like CQuartz UK 30ml ($49.99) is LESS expensive than regular CQuartz ($57.99) on AGO.
 
ekennett said:
Why a 20 minute pre soak? Aren't you worried about soap drying on the paint?

Yes, I would definitely do all the glass work before even washing the car.


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Click to expand...

allenk4 said:
Actually looks like CQuartz UK 30ml ($49.99) is LESS expensive than regular CQuartz ($57.99) on AGO.
Click to expand...

Cquartz UK Edition

CarPro Ceramic Paint Protection Kit, Cquartz kit

One kit is the UK version and on isnt. The UK version comes with Reload and the none UK version comes with Reload and Iron X.
 
DeviousDetail said:
I would be washing it in a temperature controlled garage so no I am not worried about the soap drying. If I start to notice that an area is getting to the point that it would start drying I hit it with more foam. I try to touch the paint as little as possible.
Click to expand...

To save yourself time if you're going to be correcting the car you don't have to wash it like it's defect free. I'm obviously not saying take a dirty wash mitt to it, but just keep that in mind. You will be correcting the paint so being extra gentle on the surface isn't necessary.
 
Scott@IncrediblyDetailed said:
To save yourself time if you're going to be correcting the car you don't have to wash it like it's defect free. I'm obviously not saying take a dirty wash mitt to it, but just keep that in mind. You will be correcting the paint so being extra gentle on the surface isn't necessary.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. Unless I am able to see visible defects in the paint that I know will be needing a good amount of correction I do not take short cuts in the washing process. I want to do the least amount of correction as possible.
 
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