2013 Honda Civic Full Detail + PBL Coating + Coating Booster

Tato

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Dear Friends,

This was an extensive detailing work, but I'll try to be brief with text and jump right into the pictures for an easy follow up on the process.

Customer scheduled his '13 Silver Honda Civic for Coating and bring the car the night before for convenience.

As soon as I could, I started inspecting the finish to see how I should follow to get this car to a better than new condition.


Needless to say, looking for some distance, car was looking good overall:
14-civicArrived.png


But a closer inspection started showing the flaws...
civic13-wheelbefore.png


Using my swirl finder light I was able to detect fine swirls and halos that I was not able to fully characterize as holograms, but they were there making the paint looking far from it's best:






civic13-def1.png


Closer look from the above section
civic13-def1close.png


Although it's difficult to spot and capture swirls on a silver car on camera, they were pretty evident 'looking personally', so were the halos




far look
defectA-far.png


closer look
defectA-close.png


everywhere I looked, the same kind of defects...


Starting to detail

The following day I've started washing the car by the morning.

Like we (me and my partner) generally do, the wheels are cleaned first:
civic13-foamgelcleaner.png


Those big daytona brushes are perfect for those wheels with big openings, and also gentle to the chromed surface.
civic13-wheelbrush.png


Used everywhere they fitted
civic13-wheelbrush2.png


We use a large soft brush for the wheel wells
civic13-wheelwells.png


And decided to use a soft brush for the low profile tires instead of a stiffer brush to avoid any risk of scratching the wheel finish
civic13-tireclean.png


This was followed by foaming the car, rinsing it thoroughly, and then using the buckets for a safe wash.


I fill the rinse bucket with plain water
civic13-fillwithwater.png


And using the CarPro wool wash mitt, promoted a luxurious, safe and effective washing.
civic13-carpromitt.png



Following that, I've gently and slowly clayed the car using Nanoskin fine grade mitt since I was not willing to deal with more defects than what was still on the paint.


While I was claying, customer was passing by and decided to enter and see how everything was going on (no pics on claying stage).

It was great that he came by since he was able to feel the contaminants and better, feel them being removed as the surface was becoming slick after some passes.

**If you have any question regarding claying process using nanoskin, please, feel free to ask.

He never saw that 'claying thing' before and become very excited his car was undergoing that process.

Polishing to swirl free, glossy finish

They say Honda Paint is soft... so am I! A gray/black hybrid finishing pad, Menzerna SF4000 (a finishing polish) and a soft, Wolfgang's MF towel.
honda-paint-is-soft.png


Chose a spot on the hood,
civic13hoodbeforepolish.png


Speed 5 on the Flex
smacktechnique.png


Using the Smack's Technique, I've worked product for 6-8 passes, reducing pressure on the last few passes. This way I work product until a thin film is left on the paint, which is a breeze to remove:


I bet one can scratch or mar a soft paint with those towels... downside is they may lint a bit, however it has many advantages that I can deal with small lint to keep using them.
civic13polishremoval.png


Here are the results of the test spot:
afteru00dpolish.png


This process was then reproduced on entire car, always checking results after every section.


I like to tape work area, work it, and remove tape just after for buffing polish residue.
civic13-tapedroof.png


Then I tape another area, and work it the same way. Here I've taped the front bumper part for polishing
civic13-tapedfront.png




Some more pictures of finished polishing results
civic13-aftcorrectdoor.png






Pre-Coating Process

I polish glass using an orange pad and PBL cleansing polish. This is sufficient to remove waterspots and road film in more than 90% of cases I've done that, avoiding the need for a dedicated glass polish / cleaner or a glass polishing step. (pretty obvious, but it's important to state this will not remove any scratch in glass)

Then I spread PBL cleansing polish over paint by hand using a soft foam applicator, and wipe it off using a soft MF towel.

I also coat external trim. Since I can't use the same PBL cleansing polish (beware this will stain trim hardly!, mainly porous trim), I use Meguiar's #39 for thorough trim cleaning during preparation.

My bottle of #39 came out with some leaking and I had to transfer it contents to a new bottle. The label was damaged after 're-glueing it', but that don't affect product effectivity...
civic13-precoattrimclean0.png


Some stains were already on trim when car arrived...
civic13-precoattrimclean1.png


Getting rid of it


Looks like brand new trim that's going to be coated for protection and longevity.
civic13-precoattrimclean3.png


Here...
civic13-precoattrimclean5.png


Everywhere!
civic13-precoattrimclean6.png


This product works better if you wipe it dry after 'soft scrubbing', I mean, spreading it to clean the trim.

I like the cleaner aspect of trim more than the 'dressed' aspect, but that's just me...
civic13-precoattrimclean4.png


Be sure to remove any TOGWA left because they may show up like a sore thumb when you finish a work like this...
Before:
civic13-precoattrimcleantogwa.png


After:
civic13-precoattrimcleantogwaremoved.png



Now that I have a polished, black label cleansed paint, glass and trim cleaned with #39, it's time for the last wash.

The last wash

I start rinsing the car down to start removing all dusting polishing stage may have left.
civic13-rinse.png


Then, using Hyper-Wash...
civic13-hyperwash.png


I foam the entire car
civic13-foam.png


And using a dedicated Gold Plush Wash Mitt (this is used only for this step of my process), I make 'like a' final wipe to guarantee the most clean finish possible.
civic13-goldplush.png


After thorough drying (including vacuuming the crevices and crannies), I re-inspect the finish to confirm the consistency of my results, also if there was no marring caused by my gentle wash method.
civic13-afterwash-inspection.png


Flawless. That's the way I like to have the finish ready to be coated.

Overwhelming for some, I'm adapted doing this way. After coating I get the just wash and 'waxed' look, and while coating, no dust left, a very clean and fresh finish to work on.

I've inspected the whole car again but couldn't find any imperfection worth of any concern (OCD! hahah).
civic13-aftlighthood.png


civic13-aftlighthoodclose.png
 
Coating Time

I have many PBL coatings here (paint, glass, wheels, and surface). Although I apply every 'dedicated' coating to it's parts, I like Surface Coating better than the others.

This way, I apply PBL Surface to painted surfaces, windshield and trim, Paint Coating to the Bumpers and inside doors, wheel coating to the wheels and glass coating to the side/rear glass.

I like to use soft foam wax applicator more than the coating applicators, and a soft towel for leveling after application.
coating-setup.png


The bellow picture is merely illustrative, this was just prior starting to coat. I had to left camera down and start working since product may dry fast if you don't pay enough attention to what you're doing.
tato-coating.png


Men and Women are different... since I don't like Coating Applicator to apply coating, my partner (which you'll know from now on by 'Tata') just uses it!
tata-coating.png


She applies paint coating to bumpers and inside doors painted parts, wheel coating to the wheels, surface coating to the trim, while I coat the remaining exterior paint and glass. She does a lot more in our detailing business, but that's subject for another thread. Needless to say, I'm nothing without her huge help, detailing talent and care.

I've stopped for a break and took a picture of this coated section.
coating-followup.png


The car was left overnight for coating cure.


The last day

Next day by the morning, car was rapidly dusted and fully inspected for any streaking or high points left, I may say there were 2 or 3 areas that needed a towel wipe to remove excess residue.

After that (more than 12h after coating), PBL Coating Booster was applied to all painted surfaces prior delivery to customer.

(The Bellow Picture is from another Thread of mine, but exactly the same setup) - I also have a guideline for Booster application, if needed, please, ask.
booster-intro.png


Coating booster, again, increased gloss and slickness to the next level.

Let's see what we have under the sun:

Trunk lid
civic13-aftsuntrunk.png


Roof
civic13-aftsunroof.png


I'll try a new approach to zoom those pictures, let's see if it works.
civic13-aftsunroofclose.png


Hood
civic13-aftsunhod.png


Overall look
civic13-aftsunended.png


From back
civic13-aftsunrear.png


to Front
civic13-aftsunfront.png


Wheels were coated with 2 coats of wheel coating 24h apart, and tires dressed with CG New Car Shine Dressing.

civic13-aftsungeneral.png


... and a last shot before customer left with the car
civic13-All-Doneandleaving.png



That's it!

I have many more pictures and some steps missing pictures, I admit this work was so meticulous I had difficult putting everything together.

Example are the under the hood pictures, just have the before's, but customer will be watching this thread and he's sure everything was properly detailed!

By the way, I hope you enjoy watching as I've enjoyed working on this one.

Please, feel free to ask, criticize, comment, suggest, !

Thank you very much in advance,

Kind Regards.
 
Incredible work! I like the zoom pic with the original "picture in picture" style.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Just wondering, why would you apply a booster to a freshly coated surface?

I was under the impression that a booster is not needed until further down the road to revitalize the coating.
 
Exceptional work and documentation Rafael :props:
 
:xyxthumbs:

:dblthumb2:

+1 looks great. Good job :dblthumb2:

Art

Thanks Art.

Incredible work! I like the zoom pic with the original "picture in picture" style.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thank you for kind works. I also appreciate your feedback on the 'PIP', I was looking forward to hear about it from someone.


Just wondering, why would you apply a booster to a freshly coated surface?

I was under the impression that a booster is not needed until further down the road to revitalize the coating.

Thanks for question.

Since I've started coating vehicles here in Brazil, I'm trying to optimize the process and offer the best finish to my customers.

For some customers, I've already used an approach which is described at PBL Surface coating page:
'Diamond Surface Coating was formulated so it can be topped with your favorite Pinnacle paste wax'.

I was using souveran wax to top the coating on high end details and for those customers, this was the most important part of the process since the slickness provided always made everyone who touches it swear...

Some time ago I've received my PBL Booster bottle from AG, and that was exactly in a time where I was going to apply Carnauba Wax on top of an AIO, like I do often on more simple details (AIO+Wax).

That said, I've started trying the booster and when I realized I've 'boosted' the entire AIO car, and that was not just slick, but looked gorgeous.

I've done that based on the back label of Booster, that says it can be used as a stand alone protection with up to 6 months durability. That means, instead of waxing, I've decided to use an 'easier' yet effective approach to top my AIO work. You know, time is money, and a quality work means also money.

Then, I went to Booster page at AG and found the following:

'Use Black Label Diamond Coating Booster as a topper for freshly applied coatings to amplify the glassy shine!'

Willing to try it, I've contacted Nick and we discussed which would be the better time to use it on freshly coated vehicle, etc.

I don't doubt it sounds overwhelming. However, the day after coating I always go after any streaking or high spots because we all know, even if we do our very best, we may achieve 98-99% of precision when coating. I always find at least 2 or 3 spots that needs attention the day after for a flawless finish.

That said, being the booster absolutely compatible with the coating, and can be used as a topper for the freshly applied coating, I've found a Win/Win/Win scenario on this combination.

While applying the booster (which is true, only takes minutes to apply) I go after high spots (if any), and the slickness provided while applying makes leveling the surface a breeze, and safe.

The results are awesome, since we bring the car to the sun and tried all the time to find a flaw, modesty apart, we couldn't find any.

...and all said above, that's why I've decided to 'boost' this coating.

Hope I've answered your question.


Exceptional work and documentation Rafael :props:

Great to hear from you James, really glad you enjoyed!


Awesome work!

Great comment, made me happy to hear from you!


Thank you everyone for input,

Kind Regards.
 
Beautiful work with an incredible writeup. Thanks for sharing and posting. Keep up the great work.
 
Thank you for the detailed answer! I understand your reasoning now for using it.

Great job on the car!
 
Why would you need a booster for the coating right after its applied?

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Why would you need a booster for the coating right after its applied?

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

Greetings,

Boosting a coating after it's cure is like topping it with a Carnauba Wax.

I have applied many coatings until today, some I've topped with Carnauba, some with Sealant, and some I have not applied anything... this time was the coating booster.

Please, refer to my answer #9 on first page of this thread for full answer on this question:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-pbl-coating-coating-booster.html#post1086077

Apart of maximizing protection and look, I've decided to take advantage of booster application to get rid of any coating streaking or high spot (if any) that may happen after it's cure. This I generally 'remove' using a soft MF to wipe off.

While applying it with a MF towel (I have a thread explaining booster application), I make like a 'final wipe' using the slickness provided to let finish flawless.

Also, if you refer to Coating Booster page at Autogeek dot net, you will see it's indication on top of freshly coated vehicles.

For my premium coating package, customer may decide between carnauba or booster on top.

It added value to the job, and in any form I've thought it was overkilling in any manner.

The application just take minutes and is very straightforward.

Please, feel free to ask if you have any question, as well to criticize my methods or to suggest something else.

Look forward to hear from you.

See:



I've tested the proposed application and I must say I've liked the outcome. From everything I've tested, coating booster is the perfect toping for PBL coating, and it's application helps leaving a flawless finish afterwards.

Kind Regards.
 
To add to the answer, I have a picture of coating streaking on a vehicle I've applied PBL coating earlier (Chrysler Town and Country),

Take a look:

Coating application Streaking after cure time
streaking1.png


Removed
streaking2.png


After every coating application, I wait for cure then I inspect the whole car looking for any of those streaking.

For sure, we are subject to failing on the search for streaking since it may be tricky to find every streak spot.

Using the booster provided great slickness to 'slide' my towel over the finish in a safe manner.

Applying to the whole finish as a topper, helped dealing with those streaks without worrying if I was missing something. If there were any 'unseen' streaking, they were removed during booster application.

That being said, booster application was to test product's page statement, and I may say I found it very useful for this purpose.

Hope that helps as well.

Kind Regards.
 
Not criticizing anything here at all, just don't get why a booster would need to be used on a coating at all, especially a freshly applied one. I've used DPPC and NO booster is offered and recently I've used the brand new Duragloss Nanoglass Ceramic Coating and once again, NO booster is offered.

As far as high spots go you simply need to wipe them down with a mf towel and if that worries you a simple spritz of QD will knock it down, simple.

Most coatings need to cure, so why would you wanna put anything ontop of it right away unless your waiting a day to add the booster but here's where I don't get it, a good coating doesn't need a booster, maybe another coat of it ontop to ensure complete and total coverage but that's it. Atleast as far as DG is concerned I was told by the President of the company directly not to put ANYTHING ontop of the coating once you've added your coats, he even went as far to tell me to wait 6 monthes to add AquaWax even. This tells me its a quality product that can stand alone and deliver looks and protection over the coarse of 2 years, but that will ofcoarse vary on temps and other factors.

I guess its good that an "booster" is available to those using the PBL to keep their rides looking good, its just that what I've used doesn't offer such a product.
 
Nice comment.

Please, don't feel sorry for criticizing anything since this is a discussion forum and every opinion is very welcome and valuable.

PBL coating booster is a new product, so are the PBL coating products, so the majority of it's characteristics still unknown.

Like I've said, I've applied PBL coatings to many cars, some I've topped and some don't.

Once a customer willed to try Souveran on top of a section of his coated car, and he liked the result so much that we covered the entire car with this premium wax.

Objective here, added to offering a dedicated personalized service, is to make customers happy. If topping with souveran would cause any harm to the coating, I would say categorically 'NO' to customer. I firstly extensively research and test new products prior to applying them over customers finishes.

I've even washed coated cars a day after coating and that haven't caused any harm to the coating (noticeable by observation, of course), since I follow my customers and coating is holding really strong wash after wash, month after month.

I used to use spray wax on coatings while drying, but I've experienced some cases of wax build up after some months (may happen to an uncoated car as well), so I gave up on those.

I've used coating prep. polish to clean wax build up, and even on a coated car that was subject to acid rain and severe dirty, just after cleansing polish the car looked clean and shiny, just like coated again.

This way I learned, to 'reset' a PBL coated car, in ~40 minutes you can polish the entire surface using a finishing pad and PBL cleansing polish and you're ready to go.

I may add the booster from now on after the above follow up.

Being able to be cleansed and restored to just coated state again demonstrates this is a high quality product, not the contrary.

Coating booster will not build up, and will not alter coating characteristics since it's made of the same 'coating elements'. Applying it seems just like applying a second coat, since it looks, spreads and smells just like the Surface Coating.

I see many reasons for using it, but can't see one for not using (if not the price of service).

PBL is more versatile than it looks, I apply it on many test occasions and I may say it's hard to have any problem with it's cure after just some hours following application. 12 hours suggested are to ensure full cure. It holds strong to the surface just after application.

I also live in a hot climate country, maybe that aid coating cure time.

I've also tried many prep. methods for it (even no prep. at all), I've applied (for testing purposes) it over waxed surface, etc, and I have used the booster some times before (on top of AIO products as well and as standalone protection).

I'll follow up this car since customer is scheduled for maintenance, be sure to see the first (at least) washing pictures of this car.

If something odd happen for using the booster (I doubt!), I may redo the whole coating work free of charge.

I do maintenance wash on many coated cars weekly, and I've seen more than enough to trust my 'feeling' if the coating is holding strong or not.

That said, PBL coating may differ from DG in many aspects, since it's also designed to be topped with carnauba waxes. I've read that on product description, I've done that, and I may attest there's no downside.

Being able to receive another LSP on top makes this a 'lower quality' coating? I think in contrary... PBL coating creates a coated surface that you may work over with non abrasive cleansing polishes and even topping with others LSP. The 'topper' may wash away, but the coating will be there for you.

When the other LSP 'wash away', you go back to coated surface (instead of bare unprotected painted metal). In my opinion, this is an advantage, not the contrary.

Please, read: It CAN be topped, not that it NEEDS to. This is not rocket science, and this is a very controversial thread. We may discuss this a whole week and even though not come to a conclusion. I stick with what I like, what's working for me, and use it often.

I don't know DG coating well enough, but what may be the harm of using Aqua Wax over it before 6 months?

There are many 'myths' on detailing world that we generally think in reasonable of them, some are true, some are not so.

It's up to us to test the high end products and share the results with communities like this one and get to the best approach possible.

From my experience topping PBL with coating booster, would I do it again?

Sure!

Have I found any downside on this approach?

Trust me, none.

My reasonable using booster this time, was to get the last %1 (since our application can never be assured 100%) after the coating work. I've done this testing to avoid being searching for every streak (if any), just using the booster to 'final wipe' the surface and I couldn't find any streak inspecting the car under full 1:00p.m sun. Worked for my purpose, no doubt about it.

I don't question your thinking this may be not necessary, or even not something ESSENTIAL, since some people are happy with 99%, I always go for 99.1%.

That 0.1% I consider as a differential I have to offer to my local market.

Thanks for comments,

Kind Regards.
 
Thank you for the detailed answer! I understand your reasoning now for using it.

Great job on the car!

Thank you my friend.

And do you agree with the reasoning? I'm always looking after the perfect finish. Sometimes we risk, but no risk, no reward!

Looks great!

Thanks for kind comments, your input is very important to me.

Kind Regards.
 
Thank you my friend.

And do you agree with the reasoning? I'm always looking after the perfect finish. Sometimes we risk, but no risk, no reward!

.

I have only coated 2 vehicles with PBL and one of them I coated then a week later I topped it with a wax and I like the look of the coating topped with a wax, it seemed to bring a depth to the shine.

I have no experience with the booster spray so I was just curious if it had any effect to the new coating, as the wax added depth, or if it was only used as a maintenance spray.

It can only help to ensure complete coverage in case there were any low or missed spots.
 
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