2016 Chevrolet SS Phantom Black Metallic Paint

Doing an additional "cutting step", you don't remove much clear if any. It is simply a deep polishing step.

The result is superior, but not everyone wants the best. I understand.

The Guz said:
Unfortunately opti-coat is no longer available as it is now gloss coat through the consumer market. Unless the op decides to go with opti-coat pro and/or pro +.




I would agree with this. No sense in removing more clear than what is needed.
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Blackdevil77 said:
I was gonna go with Cquartz. I have experience with that coating already. Anything you recommend over Cquartz?
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If you are using Cquartz, use Essence or what ever it is called that carpro sells. Don't use those other polishes.
 
Blackdevil77 said:
I was gonna go with Cquartz. I have experience with that coating already. Anything you recommend over Cquartz?

Would I be able to use FG400 and follow that with 205 to prep for a coating? FG400 is just so much nicer to work with than 105. If the conditions aren't exactly perfect with 105, it dries out after 2 section passes. That's with priming the pad as per the KBM and using 2 drops of product on the pad.
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I haven't used M105 in quite sometime. I gave it away and moved to M100 or D300 + microfiber if I need to do any type of compounding. I have never used FG400 so I can't comment on that. But to answer your question about M205 prior to a coating. You can definitely do that. I have used it prior to a coating. I did follow up with a couple of wipe downs with a paint prep. Also switching out towels to avoid them from cross contaminating the other areas with the oils that were removed.

If you have used Cquartz and are familiar with using it then go ahead and use that. If you wish to try something new, you have quite a selection to choose from. Optimum Gloss Coat is what I have been using lately and it is very easy to apply and has been working out for me. I have been using a double coat of Gloss Coat applied within 1 hour apart from each coat followed by 1 coat of opti-seal 1 hour after the last coat of Gloss Coat to protect Gloss Coat from marring during the 7 day cure time.

Can't go wrong with either option.
 
tdekany said:
If you are using Cquartz, use Essence or what ever it is called that carpro sells. Don't use those other polishes.
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I'll give that a shot, sure.

The Guz said:
I haven't used M105 in quite sometime. I gave it away and moved to M100 or D300 + microfiber if I need to do any type of compounding. I have never used FG400 so I can't comment on that. But to answer your question about M205 prior to a coating. You can definitely do that. I have used it prior to a coating. I did follow up with a couple of wipe downs with a paint prep. Also switching out towels to avoid them from cross contaminating the other areas with the oils that were removed.

If you have used Cquartz and are familiar with using it then go ahead and use that. If you wish to try something new, you have quite a selection to choose from. Optimum Gloss Coat is what I have been using lately and it is very easy to apply and has been working out for me. I have been using a double coat of Gloss Coat applied within 1 hour apart from each coat followed by 1 coat of opti-seal 1 hour after the last coat of Gloss Coat to protect Gloss Coat from marring during the 7 day cure time.

Can't go wrong with either option.
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Yeah I don't blame you. I'd buy M101 if I need a Meguiars compound from now on. Next time out, I'll just do several IPA/eraser wipe downs after each panel to make sure there's nothing filling in any scratches.
 
Blackdevil77 said:
I'll give that a shot, sure.



Yeah I don't blame you. I'd buy M101 if I need a Meguiars compound from now on. Next time out, I'll just do several IPA/eraser wipe downs after each panel to make sure there's nothing filling in any scratches.
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Optimum has a very good prep/polishing oil removal - Optimum Paint Prep?
 
Blackdevil77 said:
Lately GM paint has been insanely hard. I don't think the paint on my car is typical GM paint like on the cars we have here in the states. The Chevrolet SS is basically a rebaged Holden Commodore and is assembled and painted in Australia. I remember reading somewhere that the phantom black metallic paint on my car is on the softer side. Made it very easy for correcting. I did the whole car with SF3500 and it got out damn near everything rather easily. But maintaining it is a #####, to say the least.
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It isn't Holden. The paint on my wife's G8 is soft compared to the paint on my V. It chips, scratches and gets etched from bird crap much easier. It was also easier to polish. Ultimate compound and an orange pad worked for the g8, but didn't do much for the V. I have some fg400 and microfiber pads to try on it.

And yes, maintaining black is a pain. After maintaining a black grand am and tbss that she picked out, I told her no more black cars.
 
tdekany said:
Doing an additional "cutting step", you don't remove much clear if any. It is simply a deep polishing step.

The result is superior, but not everyone wants the best. I understand.
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Lol that's not the point. Best is relative. Just like what's the best compound or wax, etc...

We don't know if the ops paint is hard, soft or medium without physically being there in person. Seeing as he owns M205 let's start there. If his test spot shows that it was capable of removing 90-95% defects then why would he decide to use a compound that could induce its own marring or DA haze. Especially if the op has light marring. The job of the polish completed the task as well as imparting gloss as that is what a polish does. Not to mention the time that was saved from not doing an unwarranted step.

Now if his test spot with M205 doesn't give the defect removal that is desired then compounding would be the next step followed by a polish to refine the finish. Perhaps the paint will finish LSP ready after compounding.

Again we are not there in person to say what the paint needs
 
tdekany said:
Because you want the best possible gloss under your protection. I have only been doing paint correction professionally for 15 years, so I may not know everything, but I will produce a glossier finish with my 2 step process than ANY 1 step job I don't care who does it.

Now it is possible that your standards are lower than mine, and in that case, you will be happy with just a finishing step. I want the best possible finish. I have a feeling that you do as well.
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I've never two-stepped my Audi. Polish only. I did it initially with Meg's ultimate polish prior to it's original coating. Later I removed the coating with Menzerna SF4500 and sealed it but still didn't coat it. Here are some shots with McKee's Jeweling wax applied after nothing more than single step polish.

Hood:



Roof:



Here it is after a light polish to remove the waxes and sealants and McKee's Paint Coating applied.

 
Octopiston said:
It isn't Holden. The paint on my wife's G8 is soft compared to the paint on my V. It chips, scratches and gets etched from bird crap much easier. It was also easier to polish. Ultimate compound and an orange pad worked for the g8, but didn't do much for the V. I have some fg400 and microfiber pads to try on it.

And yes, maintaining black is a pain. After maintaining a black grand am and tbss that she picked out, I told her no more black cars.
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Yes, black is an unbelievable pain to maintain. The G8 is a Holden Commodore as well, same model to. Just an older one. I had a G8 GT. I loved that car.


So what is the verdict you are all leaning towards, Menzerna SF3500 has fillers that just hid the scratches temporarily and it really did no cutting or correcting?


Car looks flawless, pdqgp
 
SKorch630 said:
Sure is beautiful pdqgp :)
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Blackdevil77 said:
Car looks flawless, pdqgp
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Thank you both. I'm happy with it and have been tremendously impressed with the products I've used. Kuddos to the manufacturers as the top products across the board seem to all be extremely good.


Blackdevil77 said:
So what is the verdict you are all leaning towards, Menzerna SF3500 has fillers that just hid the scratches temporarily and it really did no cutting or correcting?
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Polish wise, 3500 does not contain silicone, or any fillers/glazes. I do wonder if perhaps you might have needed something a bit stronger. The good news is if the marks are light/minor it should clean up rather easily. Looking forward to seeing your next results.

I know the color well and in fact there's been a nice one like yours featured here by one of our fellow members and the metallic in it is off the chart. It's among the brightest of that color across all the makes I've seen. IIRC they coated theirs too.
 
tdekany said:
If you think that you can correct a black Chevy paint with that combo without filling, I'd like to sell you a red bridge in San Francisco.:joking:

When I worked for 3D we did extensive testings on all the top products. Some took SEVERAL wipe downs with 100% alcohol to get rid of what ever was filling. You do not need to take my word for it, you can waste a lot of time and energy and figure it out on your own, but DO NOT use german polishes under coatings. Because next time we hear from you, it will be about how the coating you were using didn't last. :props:

Most coating come with or the company has a final polish that is recommended prior to application of the coating. Use THAT product to correct and final polish.

Btw, that paint (or ANY black finish) should receive a 2 step process.

GL!!!!
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I've coated many vehicles with CQUK after having corrected with Menzerna polishes and have never had an issue. In fact I just had a Dodge Challenger come back for a light refresh 2.5 years after having been corrected with Menzerna products and then coated in UK. The coating was still completely intact!
 
If your hunting a polish and compound that does not dust and is user friendly check out the griots boss creams. They have been extremely good to me to this point. Even with my micro and fast cut the finish is damn impressive, most people wouldn't require a second step of you ask me.
 
What can I do to absolutely ensure that I have removed any and all polishing oils and what I'm seeing is the naked paint? If the defects were really hidden by the polish somehow, that would mean it stood up to an IPA wipe down and CarPro eraser. What else could I do? Wash the car 5 times with all purpose cleaner?
 
First and foremost, use the polishes that are recommended by the coating you are using. So that you don't have to wash your car 5 times with an APC. It really is simple.

Blackdevil77 said:
What can I do to absolutely ensure that I have removed any and all polishing oils and what I'm seeing is the naked paint? If the defects were really hidden by the polish somehow, that would mean it stood up to an IPA wipe down and CarPro eraser. What else could I do? Wash the car 5 times with all purpose cleaner?
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tdekany said:
First and foremost, use the polishes that are recommended by the coating you are using. So that you don't have to wash your car 5 times with an APC. It really is simple.
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For a coating I understand. In this case, I didn't use a coating. I used 845. What would I do in this particular case? I just want to see the true results, are the Menzerna products just not good for that?
 
I am sorry, not in my book. I have seen the hiding abilities of these german polishes first hand. Coating or sealant, either way, durability will suffer. Paint prep, or 100% IPA (or 91% from the store) will work, but best to move on from Menzerna.
 
Blackdevil77 said:
What can I do to absolutely ensure that I have removed any and all polishing oils and what I'm seeing is the naked paint? If the defects were really hidden by the polish somehow, that would mean it stood up to an IPA wipe down and CarPro eraser. What else could I do? Wash the car 5 times with all purpose cleaner?
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Give yourself more than wipe down. Also flip your towel to a clean side regularly until all sides are used by the prep solution used. Also get yourself better lighting.
 
The Guz said:
Give yourself more than wipe down. Also flip your towel to a clean side regularly until all sides are used by the prep solution used. Also get yourself better lighting.
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IF the polish is hiding, more light will not helpful
 
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