Lance Mark
New member
- Mar 10, 2021
- 357
- 1
Here's what I used, not in this order:
Chems:
Reset by CarPro
McKee's N-914
Chem Guys Iron Remover
Chem Guys Bug and Tar Remover
Mother's Wheel Cleaner
Wolfgang Clay Bar
Chem Guys Clay Lube
Gyeon Prep
Wolfgang Uber Compound
Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover
Wolfgang Finishing Glaze
Polish Angel Primer
Polish Angel Cosmic v2 Glass Coat
Polish Angel High Gloss
NevR Dull
Chem Guys Heavy Metal Polish
3D Water Spot Gel
Vinegar
Wolfgang Pad Conditioner
Wolfgang Pad Cleaner
Leather Honey
Equipment tools and such:
Griot G8
Boss 3" pads White, Orange, and Black
Various MF (I did three loads of towels during the project)
Little angled brush thingy for pads
Buckets and Grid Guards
Hog Blower Blow Dryer
Some inspections lights, mirrors, and a magnifying glass
A chest full of tools for disassembly and reassembly
First thing I did was get the rear end lifted, and to disassemble.
I removed the front fender, the front fairing, the gas tank console as well as the tank, the tour pack, the side covers, and the caps on the lower fairings, as well, i detached the lower fairings from the crash bar, but did not remove. The Milwaukee Eight HD engine, introduced in 2017, run warm on the top end. HDs solution was to incorporate dual cooling. The top end or the heads are cooled by a pressurized cooling system. They made it for service though, bless HD's hearts. It can be detached fully, and I was able to get full access to the fronts without disconnecting the coolant system. Otherwise I would have just left it attached and polished the bits I could get to.
First thing I went after were the wheels. To get the best access inside and out, I needed to get the rear lifted. Once again, thank you HD for including an easy and effective parking brake. I was not happy with the outcome on the wheels. They turned out way better, but after putting a bit of time and effort, I settled for better. They are aluminum, and went at them with NevrDull, Chem Guys Heavy Metal Cleaner, 3D water spot gel, vinegar cut with water, straight vinegar. The next step would have been 0000 Steel wool.
View attachment 75828View attachment 75829
After the wheels were cleaned, I started on the undercarriage from front to back. All of the powder coated black surfaces got cleaned, decontaminated, hand polished with WG Finishing Glaze, prepped with Gyeon Prep, Coated in v2 Glass Coat and Topped in High Gloss. Chrome pipes got cleaned, polished, and buffed.
View attachment 75831View attachment 75832
One of his biggest concerns was his tank. He'd marred it pretty severely and I told him, I probably won't be able to make some of that go away, but it will be a huge difference. In areas like this, rather than dig in and do my routine patters with TSR and FG, I use WG's Uber Compound with a white pad, and do small sections only until the compound starts to turn clear. TSW does a great job on small scratches and general swirling, but Uber gets me just a bit deeper when I need it. First pic is after clay barring. Second after correction. Third, coated, sealed and reassembled.
View attachment 75833View attachment 75834View attachment 75835
Here are more before pics. Every piece was cleaned on a bench top bottom and underside. Decontaminated and clay barred. Each piece got a quick look, and if needed, a spot correction with WG's Uber. Every part got TSW, two perpendicular passes at about 1/2" per second. and the same with WG's FG. They then got a quick wipe down with Gyeon Prep. Using a black finishing pad, I first hand applied primer, then attached to the wheel and quickly wheeled over the entire surface. Wiped it off, but no more prep. The coating goes right on the primer. Again, I hand applied over the entire surface, than wheeled it on. Waited about an hour and buffed off the excess. After two hours, each piece got a second coat of glass. After the second coat was applied, I waited one hour, buffed off the excess than applied two coats of High Gloss. After curing overnight, I put a pair of MF white gloves on and reassembled the bike. Before putting side panels, and the fairing cover on, the side utility areas, the inside of the upper fairing, and the upper battery compartment under the seat got detailed by my most awesome wife. She spent about an hour on those for me with a damp rag, a cup of solution, and quiver of qtips.
View attachment 75836View attachment 75837View attachment 75838View attachment 75839
Some more after pics:
View attachment 75814View attachment 75815View attachment 75816View attachment 75817View attachment 75818View attachment 75819View attachment 75820View attachment 75821View attachment 75822View attachment 75823View attachment 75824View attachment 75826View attachment 75827
I also took a few minutes and vacuumed his trunk and tour pack.
Chems:
Reset by CarPro
McKee's N-914
Chem Guys Iron Remover
Chem Guys Bug and Tar Remover
Mother's Wheel Cleaner
Wolfgang Clay Bar
Chem Guys Clay Lube
Gyeon Prep
Wolfgang Uber Compound
Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover
Wolfgang Finishing Glaze
Polish Angel Primer
Polish Angel Cosmic v2 Glass Coat
Polish Angel High Gloss
NevR Dull
Chem Guys Heavy Metal Polish
3D Water Spot Gel
Vinegar
Wolfgang Pad Conditioner
Wolfgang Pad Cleaner
Leather Honey
Equipment tools and such:
Griot G8
Boss 3" pads White, Orange, and Black
Various MF (I did three loads of towels during the project)
Little angled brush thingy for pads
Buckets and Grid Guards
Hog Blower Blow Dryer
Some inspections lights, mirrors, and a magnifying glass
A chest full of tools for disassembly and reassembly
First thing I did was get the rear end lifted, and to disassemble.
I removed the front fender, the front fairing, the gas tank console as well as the tank, the tour pack, the side covers, and the caps on the lower fairings, as well, i detached the lower fairings from the crash bar, but did not remove. The Milwaukee Eight HD engine, introduced in 2017, run warm on the top end. HDs solution was to incorporate dual cooling. The top end or the heads are cooled by a pressurized cooling system. They made it for service though, bless HD's hearts. It can be detached fully, and I was able to get full access to the fronts without disconnecting the coolant system. Otherwise I would have just left it attached and polished the bits I could get to.
First thing I went after were the wheels. To get the best access inside and out, I needed to get the rear lifted. Once again, thank you HD for including an easy and effective parking brake. I was not happy with the outcome on the wheels. They turned out way better, but after putting a bit of time and effort, I settled for better. They are aluminum, and went at them with NevrDull, Chem Guys Heavy Metal Cleaner, 3D water spot gel, vinegar cut with water, straight vinegar. The next step would have been 0000 Steel wool.
View attachment 75828View attachment 75829
After the wheels were cleaned, I started on the undercarriage from front to back. All of the powder coated black surfaces got cleaned, decontaminated, hand polished with WG Finishing Glaze, prepped with Gyeon Prep, Coated in v2 Glass Coat and Topped in High Gloss. Chrome pipes got cleaned, polished, and buffed.
View attachment 75831View attachment 75832
One of his biggest concerns was his tank. He'd marred it pretty severely and I told him, I probably won't be able to make some of that go away, but it will be a huge difference. In areas like this, rather than dig in and do my routine patters with TSR and FG, I use WG's Uber Compound with a white pad, and do small sections only until the compound starts to turn clear. TSW does a great job on small scratches and general swirling, but Uber gets me just a bit deeper when I need it. First pic is after clay barring. Second after correction. Third, coated, sealed and reassembled.
View attachment 75833View attachment 75834View attachment 75835
Here are more before pics. Every piece was cleaned on a bench top bottom and underside. Decontaminated and clay barred. Each piece got a quick look, and if needed, a spot correction with WG's Uber. Every part got TSW, two perpendicular passes at about 1/2" per second. and the same with WG's FG. They then got a quick wipe down with Gyeon Prep. Using a black finishing pad, I first hand applied primer, then attached to the wheel and quickly wheeled over the entire surface. Wiped it off, but no more prep. The coating goes right on the primer. Again, I hand applied over the entire surface, than wheeled it on. Waited about an hour and buffed off the excess. After two hours, each piece got a second coat of glass. After the second coat was applied, I waited one hour, buffed off the excess than applied two coats of High Gloss. After curing overnight, I put a pair of MF white gloves on and reassembled the bike. Before putting side panels, and the fairing cover on, the side utility areas, the inside of the upper fairing, and the upper battery compartment under the seat got detailed by my most awesome wife. She spent about an hour on those for me with a damp rag, a cup of solution, and quiver of qtips.
View attachment 75836View attachment 75837View attachment 75838View attachment 75839
Some more after pics:
View attachment 75814View attachment 75815View attachment 75816View attachment 75817View attachment 75818View attachment 75819View attachment 75820View attachment 75821View attachment 75822View attachment 75823View attachment 75824View attachment 75826View attachment 75827
I also took a few minutes and vacuumed his trunk and tour pack.
