303 Aerospace or Meguiars water based dressing

I can't see the cleaner being effective when it's mixed with dressing lol
 
Ok i see that my post on making a quick detailer has caused some confusion.

#1 yes it does a good job. My normal deep cleaning of an interior will be a multi step process of APC, then steam(if needed) then dressing. This will be the package i would sell to a very dirty car. But in order to save the customer money and not sell them something they dont need a would use this "quick detail solution" for a one step interior. I orginally used Megs quick detailer but found it left the interiors looking a little dry. I actually got this idea from reading Renny Doyals book.

#2 Megs #40 may very well work better, but then that is just one more chemical i would have to stock. I would rather use something i already have a large amount of.

#3 The cleaning effect of the APC is still active when mixed with the hyper dressing, its just more dilutted. If i need more UMPH! then i grab a bottle of my dedicated stuff.

Clear as MUD now im sure.

I have the exact same solution in one of my bottles, took it from Renny's book too ;)

I have not used it yet, all the interiors I have done were really dirty so I went with an APC + Hyper Dressing separately.

Someone on this forum said that combining the 2 gives unreliable results. So I was not looking for an opportunity to try it. I am glad to hear it works well for you, when I come across a car that is cleaner than what I usually do I will give it a try.
 
I have and use both:

Megs WBD is underrated IMO. It can be diluted to desired shine, great for interiors, leather, engine dressing and smells great. I love it for a car interior that has been severely neglected. I have used it several times on work vehicles with dried out interior plastics and it lasts a long time. Would I use this on a brand new car or an exotic, probably not.

I like 303 too, it has UV protection, low shine and luster, but smells awful.
 
303 is water based if that's the worry .... I might also suggest Ultima Interior Gard for interior parts as its darn durable.

I am on board with the Ultima. Great stuff and that bottle lasts forever. I use it on all the plastic, cloth seats and even floor mats and carpet that are in stain prone areas. I have also applied it to the radio display let it sit then wiped clean with a MF and left a nice looking display afterwards. The seats, carpet etc. have a silky feeling and are stain resistant after application and everything can be cleaned with a damp rag without removing the protectant.

Dave
 
There is no way to explain this, if you have these products give it a try. Maybe I will put a video together for the comparison with Meg quick detailer and #40.


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I may be slow, but I do poor work.

To me there is no reason to do this but only for efficiency.

I dont dee a dressing getting more protective from a cleaner and vis versa.

I see it being sprayed on and the cleaner cleaning off the majority of the dressing on whatever it's being put on it and decreasing durability if there even is any.

I personally would not be caught using this on a clients car
 
I use Megs Hyper dressing for most applications. I can buy it in bulk and it is dilutable for varying degrees of shine.
Best of all i can mix it with Megs APC+ to make a quick detailer solution for interiors that are not dirty enough to warrent a true 2-step cleaning.
Quite a homebrew you have there!!
__________________________________________________

From Meguiar's D170 Hyper Dressing MSDS:

Section3-COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
NAME..............................................CAS#..................%
polydimethylsiloxane.....................63148-62-9............40-70
alcohol, ethoxylates......................trade secret...........20-40
water...........................................7732-18-5............40-70
__________________________________________________

From Meguiar's D103 All Purpose Cleaner Plus (APC+) MSDS:

2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Components.....................................CAS #..............% Weight
Ethylene Glycol Monopropyl Ether......2807-30-9..............1-5
Sodium Metasilicate........................6834-92-0..............1-5
Linear Primary Alcohol Ethoxylate....68439-46-3..............1-5
EDTA..............................................64-02-8...............1-5

EDTA: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (tetrasodium salt)
__________________________________________________

:dunno:

Bob
 
What do you guys use to apply your 303 with on interiors? i've tried microfiber and foam applicators and can't seem to apply it without crazy streaking....

Thanks
 
To me there is no reason to do this but only for efficiency.

I dont dee a dressing getting more protective from a cleaner and vis versa.

I see it being sprayed on and the cleaner cleaning off the majority of the dressing on whatever it's being put on it and decreasing durability if there even is any.

I personally would not be caught using this on a clients car

I thought the same thing until I tried #40 and now I'm a fan of it. Give it a try. Why wouldn't you be caught using it on a clients car? It's a great product. Sometimes there's interiors that aren't trashed and all they need is #40.
 
What do you guys use to apply your 303 with on interiors? i've tried microfiber and foam applicators and can't seem to apply it without crazy streaking....

Thanks
I use the mf pads you can get at autozone, but you have to wipe with a mf towel afterwards. That's the only way I get no streaking
 
I thought the same thing until I tried #40 and now I'm a fan of it. Give it a try. Why wouldn't you be caught using it on a clients car? It's a great product. Sometimes there's interiors that aren't trashed and all they need is #40.

If you go back and re-read the post he mixes an apc with #40. So I was saying the apc mixed with #40, or whatever dressing it is, will basically clean off the dressing that's going on or make it not as durable.

I do use #40 and love it. It's my goto for details any detail that isn't higher class, in which case I use 303. I'm buying it in a gallon containers next year. I've noticed when I use 303 I caught someone saying "he didn't use any armour all" because you can't really see it. So I just use this because it lasts long, you can see it and it offer's good protection.
 
If you go back and re-read the post he mixes an apc with #40. So I was saying the apc mixed with #40, or whatever dressing it is, will basically clean off the dressing that's going on or make it not as durable.

I do use #40 and love it. It's my goto for details any detail that isn't higher class, in which case I use 303. I'm buying it in a gallon containers next year. I've noticed when I use 303 I caught someone saying "he didn't use any armour all" because you can't really see it. So I just use this because it lasts long, you can see it and it offer's good protection.

My apologies I didn't see that.
I agree with #40 being great. I've actually cleaned panels with Meg's APC+ 10:1 and went back over them to dress them with #40 just to see what would happen and it pulled off dirt onto my towel that the APC didn't get off. Very underrated product IMO.
Does it clog up your spray bottle? I can't get it to spray for crap with my trusty auto zone spray bottles which have never failed me using any other chemicals.
 
What do you guys use to apply your 303 with on interiors? i've tried microfiber and foam applicators and can't seem to apply it without crazy streaking....

Thanks

Are you spraying directly on the surface? Or on the towel first and THEN the surface?
I always spray product (any product) on the towel first and don't have streaking problems.
 
I personally would not be caught using this on a clients car

OK I tried to drop this subject because some people cannot function out side the box and I get it. But this one seems to suggest I don't do a very good job on my clients cars. Brad, IDK you, your detailing expierence or what type of business your running. You may very well be really good at what you do and think your process is the very best. I do divide most detailers into 2 groups those who are great at the theory and those who are great in practice. I've been detailing professionally for 4 years and I average 70-100 cars per. My process is an accumulation of a lot of trial and error. When I started a full detail took me 12 hours, now I can do one in 5. Click on my FB link, my work is on full display. I take very good care of my customers cars and I stand by my work. As far as being "caught" this would suggest I'm doing something sneaky. Part of my job is to educate my customers on the detailing process, they know exactly what I'm using and how I use it. You are entitled to your opinion but I would prefer you not try disparage my reputation on a forum where I'm just offering advice to someone asking for help.
 
By the way, I'm not mixing it with 40, I'm mixing it with hyper dressing which has no protective properties. The purpose of this solution is quick, light cleaning (degreasing) and dressing (darkening, moisturizing) in on step that is much cheaper then using gallons of #40 which is how much I would go thru. I can keep my cost down and pass that savings onto the customer. This solution is not for a neglected interior, this is were experience and judgment comes to play. The customer ask me my opinion on which package they need and I let them know what gives them the best bang for the buck. I do offer 303 as an upgrade for someone looking for the UV protection. It's all about the options.


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I may be slow, but I do poor work.
 
By the way, I'm not mixing it with 40, I'm mixing it with hyper dressing which has no protective properties. The purpose of this solution is quick, light cleaning (degreasing) and dressing (darkening, moisturizing) in on step that is much cheaper then using gallons of #40 which is how much I would go thru. I can keep my cost down and pass that savings onto the customer. This solution is not for a neglected interior, this is were experience and judgment comes to play. The customer ask me my opinion on which package they need and I let them know what gives them the best bang for the buck. I do offer 303 as an upgrade for someone looking for the UV protection. It's all about the options.


www.SweatTheDetails.Time2Detail.com
www.Facebook.com/DentsAndDetails
I may be slow, but I do poor work.

I can see why many people believe it would be counter productive but I agreed with you unless you try it then how do they know. Given you are only using a low dilution of APC I personally can see why this would work. As the dilution of APC increases then I imagine it would become less effective.

There is many products on the market that which might be considered counter productive but achieve great results.

For example:
Cleaner waxes. How can it provide light cleaning and wax.
Spray detailers/waxes/sealants with cleaning properties

I use optimum protectant plus. Given this is a dressing with light cleaning ability I don't think this is too dissimilar to your homebrew.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
 
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