3M Paint Defender (Spray-on Clear Bra) Review

A couple updates roughly 20 hours after.

It is still appearing a bit cloudy and you can see high spots. Unfortunately in the instructions it doesn't state what you can do with high spots, only that you have roughly 10 minutes to fill in low spots.

Here are a couple pictures

Driver's Side (With spray-on clear-bra)





Passenger's Side (Without)




You can see there's quite a bit of rough texturing to it even almost 24 hours after, 3M does state 1-4 days so I'll continue to monitor and check back.
 
48 hours after





Still extremely hazy and the high spots didn't level themselves out leading to a glaring problem since there's no instruction on how to level it. I felt if I tried to wipe it down with a microfiber it would not only leave a hole but probably destroy a towel as well. But it still has 2 days for 3M's cure time, so we shall see.

If that's not bad enough, here's the dirt pulled off my windows after just a week.



Tip: Having a car parked outside 24/7 in the southwest is extremely dusty.
 
What is the typical thickness of the application if applied properly? I've heard the actual paint protection film on the market is about 8mils thick and it's warrantied against defect for 5 years although it cost more, including paint lift if that happens but only through their certified installers. How many of us are going to really want to mask our vehicles off each year to apply the product? We have no protection if we peel paint during a removal. Can we wet sand and buff on it as they say can be done with the standard film? Also there are films out there I've heard with self healing properties does this by chance have it? That would be great!
 
Hoytman said:
I seen another thread about this 3M product on this forum about a week, or two, ago.

I just came from Wal-Mart and noticed that ArmorAll has a similar product for sale for $12 and change.
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+1 Saw this as well and it peaked my interest, but NOT waiting 4 days for curing. That is completely out of the question for me.
 
CoolRunnings said:
What is the typical thickness of the application if applied properly? I've heard the actual paint protection film on the market is about 8mils thick and it's warrantied against defect for 5 years although it cost more, including paint lift if that happens but only through their certified installers. How many of us are going to really want to mask our vehicles off each year to apply the product? We have no protection if we peel paint during a removal. Can we wet sand and buff on it as they say can be done with the standard film? Also there are films out there I've heard with self healing properties does this by chance have it? That would be great!
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I can tell you it's nowhere near as thick as Xpel which I have and you are correct is around 8mils. If I had to wager a guess I'd say the 3M spray is no more than 1-2 mils at most, think of a thickness of Saran Wrap. I'll have an update in a week when I remove it after a road trip (final test for it to redeem itself)

After using it, and granted my application may not have been perfect but I did follow the steps exactly, this is an item that would help against minor rock chips and bug etching. But in such a way that I would literally spray on a couple days before a road trip and remove it immediately after. I couldn't recommend any wet sanding or buffing as I think you would ultimately go right through the stuff. And to my knowledge it's self leveling, albeit severely lacking in that area, but not self-healing. If I find anything different I'll let you know.
 
why when there is plasti dip ?
$30 3m - $7-8 pd

plasti dip has there original clear , actually it will be clear matte . or the glossifier for clear . $7-8 a can, or in gallons . if using rattle can get the dip nozzle . put on as many coats as u want , spray over it again at any time ( need clean prepping ) , any dings , chips, peeling , whatever can be fixed without having to remove all the dip . . can last up to 3 years , very resistant to elements . great for winter/salt protection . easily peels off , even easier with the more coats u put down. otherwise use the dip dissolver and pw it off . with proper technique it will lay flat and smooth .
 
poweraid said:
why when there is plasti dip ?
$30 3m - $7-8 pd

plasti dip has there original clear , actually it will be clear matte . or the glossifier for clear . $7-8 a can, or in gallons . if using rattle can get the dip nozzle . put on as many coats as u want , spray over it again at any time ( need clean prepping ) , any dings , chips, peeling , whatever can be fixed without having to remove all the dip . . can last up to 3 years , very resistant to elements . great for winter/salt protection . easily peels off , even easier with the more coats u put down. otherwise use the dip dissolver and pw it off . with proper technique it will lay flat and smooth .
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Plain curiosity honestly. And I believe this stuff holds up better to chemicals when washing than plasti-dip and that this was supposed to be self-leveling whereas I don't believe plasti-dip is. Although like you said when in doubt with plasti-dip you just respray.
 
Does either of these two products have a UV inhibitor within them cause that's an added benefit also that I'd be interested in?
 
CoolRunnings said:
Does either of these two products have a UV inhibitor within them cause that's an added benefit also that I'd be interested in?
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Not that I know of, I believe plasti-dip can fade over time, and this one doesn't to my knowledge. Granted they will limit your paint's exposure to it due to their protective nature I believe. But both are made to be replaced quite often there wouldn't be a point as they can be re-done without too much work.

Feel free to correct me if i'm wrong.
 
CoolRunnings said:
Does either of these two products have a UV inhibitor within them cause that's an added benefit also that I'd be interested in?
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I know some of the PPF's specifically do NOT have an UV inhibitor, because most people don't put film on their entire car, and therefore want all the paint to look the same when they remove the film.

If it did have an inhibitor, then part of your paint would fade and the other part wouldn't over time...
 
Thanks for posting this up I have been on the line as to recommend this product. I also have been considering it as an added service depending on how well it performs.
 
Okay, this may be emotion filled. But avoid this product, like run. It is an absolute pain in the *** to remove. I spent roughly an hour and got about 3/4 done. The big parts when they remove are awesome but the small pieces are a pain. Now a plastic razor would come extremely helpful, but then again as a consumer following directions it has nothing of the sort.

Here's a quick picture during



You can see how unclean it comes off and the difference in reflection.
 
You know I bought some of this to protect my front lip since it hangs so close to the ground. I never got around to putting it on and after seeing the way it distorts the image I'm giving it second thoughts.
 
smack said:
You know I bought some of this to protect my front lip since it hangs so close to the ground. I never got around to putting it on and after seeing the way it distorts the image I'm giving it second thoughts.
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I've read some others saying they got it to dry on clear but I haven't seen any pictures of it. I've got about 2/3 of my can left and a giant roll of plastic sheeting if you need any.

I got a majority done before getting sick of it and quitting for the night.

Anyone know where to get plastic razors over the counter?
 
af90 said:
I've read some others saying they got it to dry on clear but I haven't seen any pictures of it. I've got about 2/3 of my can left and a giant roll of plastic sheeting if you need any.

I got a majority done before getting sick of it and quitting for the night.

Anyone know where to get plastic razors over the counter?
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If you need some plastic razors let me know. I have a box of them....
 
Seems like from the pics that it should have been applied heavier. Not only does it seem like it would have allowed the high spots to flow out better but I would think it would peel off easier if it was thicker. But I've never personally used it so I may be way off base.
 
Elwood P Dowd said:
Seems like from the pics that it should have been applied heavier. Not only does it seem like it would have allowed the high spots to flow out better but I would think it would peel off easier if it was thicker. But I've never personally used it so I may be way off base.
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I think applying thicker on the top portions would have helped it remove easier or more uniform.
 
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