4 Steps to restore single paint paint - 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE

Mike, brilliant work on the dead paint. Why so many products must be used on old single stage paint?

I thought such paints only need lambswool bonnet, polishing (not hard abrasive but medium or light) with machine & then wax with machine (very soft pad) or by hand.

I made it once on much older car Cadillac 1956 & that car was 10Y in the outside parking in Tel-Aviv, sun & rain for 120 months. I think if I would use just this 1 product (medium polish with carnauba wax in 1 product, nanotechnology) on 1972 Mercedes, results would be no worse than yours using many products.


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Mike, brilliant work on the dead paint. Why so many products must be used on old single stage paint?
I thought such paints only need lambswool bonnet, polishing (not hard abrasive but medium or light) with machine & then wax with machine (very soft pad) or by hand.
I made it once on much older car Cadillac 1956 & that car was 10Y in the outside parking in Tel-Aviv, sun & rain for 120 months. I think if I would use just this 1 product (medium polish with carnauba wax in 1 product, nanotechnology) on 1972 Mercedes, results would be no worse than yours using many products.

Depends on how much time you want to put into it, what kind of money you want to spend, and what kind of results you expect to get. It's all about matching your services to your customer's needs.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...etail-extreme-makeover-toyota-highlander.html
 
Mike, brilliant work on the dead paint. Why so many products must be used on old single stage paint?


Whatever works for you is what I want you to use. If you're happy then I'm happy.

The reason I use the #7 first is fully explained here if you want to read the article.

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

Here's the key paragraph notice the word important...


What to do
If preserving the original paint is important to you then the first thing you want to do is condition the paint before working on it. Most people just jump right in and start rubbing some type of abrasive compound over old, dry, fragile paint and this will remove a lot of paint quickly and possible remove too much. Instead, take the extra step of conditioning the paint and bring it back to life with product that's been around since cars and thus car paints have been around.



And I'm 100% positive had I taken a wool buffing pad on a rotary buffer to Wayne Carini's 1953 Hudson it would have removed so much paint there would be primer showing everywhere.

Wayne Carini 1954 Hudson Hornet Original Paint Restored by Mike Phillips


This car has the original paint it it was IMPORTANT to Wayne to preserve and protect it as he did not want to repaint this car.

It's hard to see in this picture here but where the yellow outline box is there's a thin spot showing black primer.

Mike_Phillips_Wayne_Carini_009a.jpg




Here's the same spot from a picture I took with my iphone...

Mike_Phillips_Wayne_Carini_Thin_Paint.jpg




Close up cropped out of the original...

Mike_Phillips_Wayne_Carini_Thin_Painta.jpg




I take great care in restoring original paint on other people's classics.

But each person can find what works for them and go for it!

:props:
 
WOW! That hood came out amazing!!!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Whatever works for you is what I want you to use. If you're happy then I'm happy.

The reason I use the #7 first is fully explained here if you want to read the article.

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

Here's the key paragraph notice the word important...


What to do
If preserving the original paint is important to you then the first thing you want to do is condition the paint before working on it. Most people just jump right in and start rubbing some type of abrasive compound over old, dry, fragile paint and this will remove a lot of paint quickly and possible remove too much. Instead, take the extra step of conditioning the paint and bring it back to life with product that's been around since cars and thus car paints have been around.



And I'm 100% positive had I taken a wool buffing pad on a rotary buffer to Wayne Carini's 1953 Hudson it would have removed so much paint there would be primer showing everywhere.

Wayne Carini 1954 Hudson Hornet Original Paint Restored by Mike Phillips


This car has the original paint it it was IMPORTANT to Wayne to preserve and protect it as he did not want to repaint this car.

It's hard to see in this picture here but where the yellow outline box is there's a thin spot showing black primer.

Mike_Phillips_Wayne_Carini_009a.jpg




Here's the same spot from a picture I took with my iphone...

Mike_Phillips_Wayne_Carini_Thin_Paint.jpg




Close up cropped out of the original...

Mike_Phillips_Wayne_Carini_Thin_Painta.jpg




I take great care in restoring original paint on other people's classics.

But each person can find what works for them and go for it!

:props:

Dear Mike, I seen in your link where you checked paint thickness on the 1954 Hudson Hornet, the one was 2.6mm the other 1.8mm is it before & after or only some area where paint was thicker?
You know in Israel to paint a single stage classic cost a fortune, can be 7,000-10,000$ per car Caddy or Hudson size when using the original paint formula, new/old paint.
I would like to know how much it cost in USA to paint such cars from the 50's with original paint? I ask it because in my opinion if for the car owner the original look is very important, why they polish their cars instead of just giving them a new life with new/old paint? It comes to price for the new paint, or there is another reason they polish instead of paint? I think the only reason is the price, because if I had to chose: renew old dead paint for 500$ (this is about price in Israel for a single stage paint to be polished, waxed, chrome made & all exterior renovation) or paint the exactly the same, original paint, I of course would chose to paint Hudson Hornet, no polish can be compared to new, original paint.
So what is the price in USA to paint such cars (only the original paint), I think it's much less than 7,000-10,000$ in Israel.
My other question: How much it cost in USA to detail a new cars & old cars?
In Israel people who use only the best car care products charge for new cars 200$-400$ for old cars (the market is very, very small for such old cars here, you barely see once a month some Cadillac will pass by, to see old Rolls-Royce or Hudson Hornet one must wait years) 400$-800$ because they are double in size & so much chrome compared to new cars. I use only the most expensive products (most) come direct from suppliers in Europe through I made contacts at Automechanika Exhibition in Frankfurt am Main (Mike if you will be there in 2014 I would like to meet you) but others use the cheapest Turtle Wax, Car Magic, Formula1, ArmorAll, STP, CarPlan etc. very rare to see even Sonax.
Meguiar's, Menzerna, Wolfgang's (they are available here) you won't see in any car wash (most polish&wax is made at car washes here), people who buy such higher quality products are car enthusiasts, pioneers.
I use only the best & most expensive products from Switzerland, Germany, Austria, France, Italy, Finland some UK & USA because I love what I do, I can't imagine using Turtle Wax in this oval box like shoe cream on a new 2K clear coat, but this is a standard here.
You say lambswool pad can't be used on old paint? But only the finishing/waxing pad (black, blue) is softer than lambswool? You mean even at low speed polishing machine it can't be used? Why?
Look here is one of the companies I buy from them, there is instruction in the video about single stage paint by using medium polish & wax in 1 product (nano) & exactly lambswool pad: look 4min20sec
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n50d2aAQZAU

:coolgleam:
 
Incredible work, simply Beautiful! Thank you for this information on your technique.
 
Hi, I'm new to this forum. I'm "restoring" the original paint on my 1972 metallic blue Datsun 240z survivor. I will be using the Meguiars #7 24-hour soak process outlined in your comprehensive article - by hand. (great article, by the way)

One question: are you saying to use one microfiber towel to apply and polish the #7? Is it one towel for the entire process of 4 applications, or one towel per panel? One towel to apply and another to polish/remove?

Thanks for the help. It's only original once and I don't want to make any mistakes!
 
Hi, I'm new to this forum. I'm "restoring" the original paint on my 1972 metallic blue Datsun 240z survivor.

Wow!

That's DOUBLE RARE

1. It's a rare survivor Datsun.

2. It's rare that it still has the original single stage paint.

Just a few years ago my daily driver was a 1974 Datsun 260Z - Loved driving this car.

260ZProfileShot003.jpg





I will be using the Meguiars #7 24-hour soak process outlined in your comprehensive article - by hand. (great article, by the way)


Thank you... for lurkers reading this into the future that would be this article.

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints



One question: are you saying to use one microfiber towel to apply and polish the #7? Is it one towel for the entire process of 4 applications, or one towel per panel? One towel to apply and another to polish/remove?

Typically I use a cotton terrycloth wash cloth folded 4-ways. Use one side of this folded wash cloth each time you apply and work the #7 over the paint.

You can switch to a new cloth each time if you want but you're going to wast a lot of the #7 as new, dry cloth will absorb a lot of the product. Instead I just use the same cloth and once it becomes saturated with #7 it stops absorbing new product and instead just work it into and over the paint.

It also acts like a filter as you continue to use it so the working face has fresh #7 and the back side has something that's different because it's been filtered through. So I don't re-fold and switch sides but just keep using the same side.

Of course, inspect the working face of the cloth and make sure you haven't picked up any contaminants that you don't want to rub over the paint.


From post #3 of the above article....


Mike Phillips said:
Your towel acts like a filter
Here I've unfolded the towel to show you what it looks like. As you can see the towel is completely saturated through and through with the polishing oils found in #7. The towel acts like a filter: as new product is placed onto the working face of the towel some product seeps through while the majority is worked into and over the paint after the towel reaches maximum saturation. The oils that filter through the towel are different than the original product that comes out of the bottle. If I were to refold the towel when applying the #7 I would be in essence changing the product as I would be introducing the fresh product out of the bottle to a different version of itself on a different fold of the towel. I could switch out the used towel for a fresh towel but then I would have to re-saturate the towel all over again and that would use up a lot of product.


Visually inspect the working face of your application towel
After each application I inspect the working side of the microfiber towel and if I see any particulates I remove them, one thing for sure, once you break in your towel it requires a lot less #7 to coat over and work the oils into the paint than when I first started out with a dry towel. This technique is actually written about in the booklet Bill Stewart wrote. I know it doesn't look pretty but it works in that the paint comes out looking great and after towel break-in you really feel like you're reviving the paint in very wet manner as you work around a panel. Keep in mind single stage paints are much different in their polishabilty and workability than a modern clear coat paints. Clear coat paints don't absorb oils like a single stage paint and they are scratch-sensitive, that is they scratch very easily and the scratches are easy to see.

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Thanks for the help.

It's only original once and I don't want to make any mistakes!


And you and thousands of other guys are exactly who I wrote this how-to article for. If it's IMPORTANT to you to do everything you can to restore and preserve the original paint then you want to use the #7 and follow the steps I outline.

I meet a few people once in a while that disagree with this process and that's okay... I wrote this for people who care and again... it's important to them to do everything they can to restore and preserve the original paint.

One thing I know for sure... I can't count how many people have used this system successfully.


:)
 
Thank you, Mike. I appreciate all the good advice and fast reply. I'm looking forward to this project.

I was in the high-end auto service, antique, classic, and motorsports biz for 30 something years. Had more than one detailer in my employ. Now I'm doing it for the love of it. Restoring old cars. More cars, no customers.

Here's a before pic. I'll try to capture some more before I start and some after as well.

I think this blue with the white guts is fairly rare. I'm thrilled it has no rust. I'm worried though because I shipped it to Hawaii. Keeping it dry, but everything rusts here. It's the sea air, but mostly because of the sulphur dioxide gas emitted from the volcano. Doing everything I can to preserve it.
 
Hello again,
Am I better off using a paint sealant or old school paste wax? I've never used the former. I've got some Mothers Carnauba but I've been reading some raves about Wolfgangs paint sealant. My project is underway and I'll need to order the sealant before completion to be ready to go. Any problems using the sealant on the old single stage? Any pros or cons? Thanks for the help!
 
Thank you, Mike. I appreciate all the good advice and fast reply. I'm looking forward to this project.

That's how we do things on this forum....



I was in the high-end auto service, antique, classic, and motorsports biz for 30 something years. Had more than one detailer in my employ. Now I'm doing it for the love of it. Restoring old cars. More cars, no customers.

Living the dream buddy!


Here's a before pic. I'll try to capture some more before I start and some after as well.

I think this blue with the white guts is fairly rare. I'm thrilled it has no rust. I'm worried though because I shipped it to Hawaii. Keeping it dry, but everything rusts here. It's the sea air, but mostly because of the sulphur dioxide gas emitted from the volcano.

Doing everything I can to preserve it.


That's all you can do...

I've lived on the West Coast, (Seaside and Astoria Oregon), and now the East Coast, (Stuart, Florida), and you're right... living next to the ocean makes owning classics more difficult due to the rust issue.

This is why, for anyone that follows my write-ups for cars I detail, I don't WASH classics, streetrods or muscle cars.

As a "best practice" I don't introduce water to places you cannot see let alone dry as it creates a moisture/rust issue for the owner.

For the most part I only wash or introduce flowing water, to new cars.


:)
 
By using the terrycloth towel, it'll act as the abrasive & the rubbing action will remove the above surface contaminates - just like a clay bar would. Using you hand vs. a DA is better because you can apply more pressure w/ your hand than you can w/ a DA.
 
Very helpful guide, thanks alot mate.

You're very welcome.



Mike,

Did you use clay on the Benz? Would there be any benefit?

If you clay oxidized single stage paint you waste the clay by filling it up with dead paint and clay does not glide over oxidized paint very well.

If you're actually working on antique, single stage paint you want to follow the procedure I outline as it's been working for about 100 years. That is use 100% cotton terrycloth toweling, like a wash cloth to apply, work and rub the #7 over the paint.



The #7 was applied by hand? DA not a good idea?

It just doesn't work that way... you can try but I guarantee you you'll get better results doing it the old fashioned way. REAL single stage paint is a completely different animal than today's modern basecoat/clearcoat paints and even modern single stage urethanes.


:)
 
Mike,

Would any single stage paint benefit from #7? No matter what the condition?
 
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