5.5 CCS v 6.5 CCS

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InTheBuff

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Looking to decide on the 5.5 CCS vs the 6.5 CCS pads. Question, are they both made from the same foam?

I have a pre-takeover PC 7335 that I use for buffing duty. The specific situation is that I want to match the pad with the XMT360. XMT360 seems like a really nice product. Since I would try and do some correction with the XMT360, I'm wondering if the smaller, thinner 5.5 would be a better choice. Thoughts?

On a more general note, when is the 5.5 more appropriate and when is the 6.5 pad more appropriate?

Finally, which PC counterweight is recommended for 5.5 pad use the 5 or 6 incher?

I realize that I'm asking for a lot of information in this post. Thanks for the advice.
 
You will achieve better correction with a 5.5" pad. Get some 4" pads for heavier correction. Use the 5" counter weight.
 
So with the 5.5" backing plate that come with the PC you need a 5" counter weight?
 
Not sure if the counter weight is the same with the new PC, but with the 7424, the counter weight that comes with it is perfectly fine to use with 5.5" pads and a 5" BP.
 
InTheBuff said:
Looking to decide on the 5.5 CCS vs the 6.5 CCS pads. Question, are they both made from the same foam?
Click to expand...

If the colors are the same then it is the same foam.

InTheBuff said:
I have a pre-takeover PC 7335 that I use for buffing duty. The specific situation is that I want to match the pad with the XMT360. XMT360 seems like a really nice product. Since I would try and do some correction with the XMT360, I'm wondering if the smaller, thinner 5.5 would be a better choice. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

As others have posted, "yes" is the answer. Because the PC polishers have a clutch if you push downward with too much pressure the clutch kicks in and the pad will stop rotating, this prevents you from burning or removing too much paint. The problem is that it also stops the pad from rotating and paint is removed best when the pad is rotating.

Smaller pads have less surface area and thinner pads don't absorb and dissipate power as much as thicker pads so they will rotate better under pressure and thus you'll get better and faster paint removal or in other words correction work done.


InTheBuff said:
On a more general note, when is the 5.5 more appropriate and when is the 6.5 pad more appropriate?
Click to expand...

For correction work smaller pads work better, (see above comments as to why), as for using larger pads it's personal preference and depends upon what you're goals are, but a larger pad will cover more area so you can cover more territory faster, for example waxing a motor home or large boat.


InTheBuff said:
Finally, which PC counterweight is recommended for 5.5 pad use the 5 or 6 incher?
Click to expand...

Either will work.


InTheBuff said:
I realize that I'm asking for a lot of information in this post. Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

This isn't asking a lot of information in a post, some people will ask a dozen or more questions and the topics will be all over the place. Usually asking 3 questions on a particular subject is a good rule of thumb and it makes it easy for others to post detailed answers which helps the OP, (Original Poster).

Asking many questions in a single post can tend to scare people off because it gets harder to format a reply in a way that's easy to read plus it's just kind of overwhelming.



joshs07redss said:
Not sure if the counter weight is the same with the new PC,
Click to expand...

The new XP model comes with a counterweight for a 5" backing plate.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
If the colors are the same then it is the same foam.



As others have posted, "yes" is the answer. Because the PC polishers have a clutch if you push downward with too much pressure the clutch kicks in and the pad will stop rotating, this prevents you from burning or removing too much paint. The problem is that it also stops the pad from rotating and paint is removed best when the pad is rotating.

Smaller pads have less surface area and thinner pads don't absorb and dissipate power as much as thicker pads so they will rotate better under pressure and thus you'll get better and faster paint removal or in other words correction work done.




For correction work smaller pads work better, (see above comments as to why), as for using larger pads it's personal preference and depends upon what you're goals are, but a larger pad will cover more area so you can cover more territory faster, for example waxing a motor home or large boat.




Either will work.




This isn't asking a lot of information in a post, some people will ask a dozen or more questions and the topics will be all over the place. Usually asking 3 questions on a particular subject is a good rule of thumb and it makes it easy for others to post detailed answers which helps the OP, (Original Poster).

Asking many questions in a single post can tend to scare people off because it gets harder to format a reply in a way that's easy to read plus it's just kind of overwhelming.





The new XP model comes with a counterweight for a 5" backing plate.


:)
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike!
 
I think the best solution for the mdoerate hobbyist is to switch to the 6 inch backing plate. If you have heavey correction to do use a Dewalt with a wool pad. The PC was made for shine and luster not heavy oxidation/etc.
 
regal said:
I think the best solution for the moderate hobbyist is to switch to the 6 inch backing plate. If you have heavy correction to do use a Dewalt with a wool pad. The PC was made for shine and luster not heavy oxidation/etc.
Click to expand...

Modern clear coats don't readily oxidize instead the most common problem with clear coats are swirls, scratches and etchings.

Old school single stage paint do oxidize and you're right, it's faster and easier to chew off the old dead paint with a wool pad on a rotary buffer than it is to massage it off with a dual action polisher.

Last summer when gas was around $5.00 a gallon, since my 1975 Jimmy gets around 10 miles per gallon I bought a classic BMW truck to chase parts and drive back and forth to work. Since California makes you smog your car every two years for anything build in 1976 and newer I and a lot of car guys only buy things that are 1975 and older.

This BMW truck has been sitting in a field in Las Vegas for years and as such the original single stage paint was uniformly and thoroughly oxidized all over so I used a wool pad with M105 for for the initial cut, then a foam pad with M80 to bring out the color, both with a rotary buffer.

Before
1974DatsunProject001.jpg


DatunSeatMakeover003.jpg



Side-by-side
1974DatsunProject005.jpg



After
1974DatsunBMW001.jpg


I have a better picture somewhere besides this but the entire truck looked like the hood before I started.
BillyBobbing05.jpg



Cars and trucks with single stage paints are getting harder and harder to come by now days since clear coats when mainstream starting in the early 1980's. I actually love restoring single stage paints as it tends to be easier, more fun and the before and after results are usually very dramatic.

:)
 
regal said:
I think the best solution for the mdoerate hobbyist is to switch to the 6 inch backing plate. If you have heavey correction to do use a Dewalt with a wool pad. The PC was made for shine and luster not heavy oxidation/etc.
Click to expand...

If you're using the PC, you don't want to go bigger than 5.5" pads. If you're using the Dewalt (which by the way is a great machine :D) then a 6" backing plate is great. I actually just ordered a 6" backing plate to go with my 7" Meg's solo wool pad. I agree that the PC is not meant for correction. Too many people are trying to make it do things it's not intended to do and they are ruining their tools. If someone can finish down with a rotary, I really don't see a need for a PC except on rare occasions.
 
To me a PC is for "jeweling"or the last couple polishing steps and AIO, in that case a 6 inch backing plaet with 6.5" pad whould be fine. I leave the heavy work to the dewault, I am not talented enough to remove swirls and "jewel" with a Dewalt, need the PC for that.
 
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Amazing results for such an old vehicle. In a way, you have "more to work with" on a single layer system, right?

Also, see my note, Mike.

Thx.

See ya
seeya.gif
 
You have less to work with because the automakers put such a small amout of clear on the cars, burn thru it and get out the paint gun. The exceptiomn is my place of employment Harley who uses a uniquie powder clear to give 3x the clear the out makers use on the sheet metal.
 
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regal said:
You have less to work with because the automakers put such a small amout of clear on the cars, burn thru it and get out the paint gun. The except is my place of employment Harley who uses a uniquie powder clear to give 3x the clear the out makers use on the sheet metal.
Click to expand...


I read the above thread wrong, you are correct, single stage enamel is easier there is more paint, unless its old laquer which has proably washed down the drain by now.
 
I got one of those 'BMW trucks'! Think this paint will buff out too!?

IMG_0160.jpg

IMG_0161.jpg

IMG_0166.jpg

IMG_0168.jpg

IMG_0170.jpg

IMG_0484.jpg


Super fun little truck...seriously though why the BMW roundel =P
 
There is no place for picture like that on Autotopia, btw you will never see my truck posted her
 
regal said:
There is no place for picture like that on Autotopia, btw you will never see my truck posted her
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my post was only a joke, should have seen some of the rides I've had over the years.
 
A friend of mine has a 1996 Ford ranger that is a non metallic red. The paint has the same milky color of the first photo of the blue truck above.
He wants me to buff it out. I am wondering if that paint is clear coated. Is it a single stage paint being it is not metallic? If it has a clear coat and is milky like that, I am afraid buffing will not help as it has clear coat failure. Any thoughts on this ?
 
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