Q
Niko,
It was mentioned that you can get both Griot's machines for what the Rupes 21 runs. That is a SOLID IDEA!!! You'll not be able to work on every vehicle you see with only that 21, it's not going to happen. You need a machine for tight quarters, and you need a machine that doesn't have that kind of throw. Plus you need one that'll behave well on the curvy stuff. Griot's lifetime warranty is just a plus. Either way, you need another machine!
Might want to look at the Rupes Duetto, it is VERY good, very good indeed. :xyxthumbs:
Spray bottles! You will need a TON of spray bottles. The Meguiar's 6 pack here on AG is as cheap as you'll ever find a quality bottle. Plus they look professional. You can get most of the popular products pre-labeled even. Others have a nice, white generic label that takes Magic Marker well and it doesn't wear off like it does on a plain bottle. Not to mention the % off sales work on them all the time. Anything less than 2 dozen (if you want to have all your bases covered) won't work.
Get both APC+ (D103) and APC (D101) from Megs, (the latter will foam) and get a foaming sprayer head. That'll get you through darned near anything you can imagine.
It was mentioned to look at the Meguiar's Microfiber Correction Kit. Get that one with the 5½" pads. The cool part is you get the non clog bottles (2 of them), 1 D300 Correction Compound, 1 D301 Finishing Wax. (
D300 has turned into my favorite compound out there over the last year.) You of course get 2 MF cutting pads, and 2 MF finishing pads. Plus you get the Meguiar's backing plate, which is a HUGE BONUS. (
In the early days of MF pads there were known failures. After the Meguiar's engineers looked into it, they found that heat was building up, not on the surface, but on the Velcro side of the pads. This was being caused from using any one of a myriad of backing plates. So Meguiar's designed their own Velcro system, their own backing plate, and ship it with the "Correction System".) On top of that, you get a spiffy Meguiar's apron. It's combed cotton and decently soft.
I actually ordered TWO of the kits over a year ago, when they were on sale, (and took 20% off on top of that).
Makes for a great kit, and the aprons we like to use as well.
I mentioned microfiber in another thread. It was also mentioned here, DO NOT buy a "kit" of towels. Especially if you think that'll be something that'll get you through the day.
Microfiber Tech, call Ian or Dan and tell them you're setting up your business and want to setup a business account. Prices are half what you'll pay anywhere else, (even if it's on BOGO). The more you buy, the more you save. Not sure what you want? Ask Ian for samples. Yes, SAMPLES. If you're putting in an order, he'll send you a sample pack that will likely be the size of some of the "kits" out there, FOR FREE! Tell Ian I sent ya', he knows me.... he knows I send him guys all the time, but more importantly, HE KNOWS MICROFIBER. You see a name, Gold Plush Jr., ask anyone that has one, and has the MFT 360 gold and see if there is any difference at all. I've even weighed them, to the 1/10th of a gram, and they are the same towel.
Although.... on my last multi-case order I got the gold's and some in black. The black ones weigh considerably more than the gold's. (FWIW, the gold ones are closer to a 365.) I bet the white ones are lighter even still. In fact, there has been an article out there for years now about how white towels are better for your paint than colors, it's about how the dye makes the towels stiffer, (and heavier). (
I forget now where it was, but it's out there.)
Along that line, the reason I buy different colors is so that each color has a specific use. For instance, I *KNOW* that my black 360's (they are more like 368's actually) will NEVER touch a hood, or roof, or trunk *(unless they are brand new)*. The darker color is for bottoms of doors, behind wheels, bumper covers, etc.
Then when washing, wash your utility towels together, IE: Costco and other heavily soiled towels. Then your next level of towels, so on and so on, all the way to your finest LSP towels. At the very least, the washer (and any hint of old fabric softener) will have been rinsed out with the el-cheapo towels, LONG before you get to your prized LSP towels.
Even though Ian's stuff is affordable, you don't want to throw them in with your door jamb, and exhaust tip towels.
Especially if you're talking about Korean 500's, or dual-plush 700's.
Oh, that reminded me, MFT says their Korean edgeless towels are 470 GSM, but I've compared them to other Korean edgeless 500's, even weighed them (to the 1/10th of a gram) and they equate out to more like 513 GSM towels. They are actually as thick, (actually thicker) than the last 500 I got from The Rag Company. And they are considerably less expensive!
Utility towels; Go to Costo and get 3~4 packs of their Kirkland Golds. Those are also 360 GSM towels, but the construction is vastly different from the softer, longer pile 360's that you'll find here and on other detailing sites. Although with the cost being at 39¢ (plus tax) per towel you can throw them away and not have trouble with it.
From what you're saying you are shooting for (at the very least) semi-production work, pumping out 2~3 cars a day. You WILL NEED LOTS OF TOWELS.
Meguiar's NXT 2.0 wax. Why?
It's not really a wax, more of a polymer sealant. Which btw most everything is over the last 6~8 years
at least. Just get the Meguiar's M21 2.0 and sell it as a sealant. It's a couple bucks more, (in the small bottle) but you can buy it in a 64oz jug. It's very VERY good! :dblthumb2:
You want a product to offer as a "wash and wax", use a spray wax. Meguiar's 156 is good, Duragloss 951 may actually be better, (it sure smells better) it's also cheaper, and it's VERY slick. Durability is easily 3~4 weeks in a harsh environment (more like 4~6 everywhere else) if used on a dry vehicle. Plus it can be used as a drying aid to help with water spots.
rops:
Want an affordable "liquid" wax, I guess Mother's can fill that bill. Might want to look at Optimum, I hear it's really good. Then again we're back to "sealants" again. Easier to use the KISS method. One sealant, one spray wax, call it a day.
Getting back to the buffer. Go for 5½" pads. They are cheaper, and they'll get into more areas than the larger pads. Also while where here, GET A LOT OF PADS. If you're thinking about doing production work, lots of AIO, and a few multi-step, you'll be burning through pads. In the summer they hold heat for a LONG time. It'll build up inside the pad, not so much on the surface, but inside, and on the back. (Remember the Meguiar's problem with the Velcro.) You'll need to pull the pads, put the back up to your cheek, or the back of your hand. If it's more than just barely warm, you need to change it out. If you don't.... the cellular construction will start collapsing, or WORSE. It's not uncommon to use half a dozen pads of the same color on a single vehicle. Heck, when I first started using a DA for my own vehicles I bought several dozen. (
Because I had 5 vehicles sitting here, 3 with GM, 1 Toyota, 1 Infiniti paint system... all of which are completely different when it comes to the pad you need to make a given compound or a given polish work on THAT vehicle.)
Smaller pads are cheaper, which means you can buy more of them. *(
Unless of course they are Rupes pads.... then it's grab your ankles boys.)* :laughing:
Lake Country and Meguiar's pads I have somewhere around 100, counting all sizes. But I don't have to stop during a job because I don't have a pad to use. Now I might not have all the colors, in all the sizes, but I can always change a backing plate on the trusty GG6 and keep trucking on.
Right now I only have 6 Rupes foam pads, (no green ones) and 4 microfiber, (2 of each, cutting and finishing) and
THAT is
NO-
WHERE-
NEAR enough to go out and try to do "production work". Heck, it's not enough for me to even try and finish a vehicle without stopping, taking breaks, cleaning pads, trying to get them dry, or short of cleaning them having to throwing them in the fridge to cool them off! :laughing:
I like the idea of that new McCullough steamer. It's getting great reviews, and much larger than the older ($100) unit that people have been getting by with for years. SURE, the VX5000 should be on your wish list, HECK it's on MY wish list! But it's not totally necessary to get through the day. Pads (and lots of them) along with towels, (and TONS of them) will get you through the day.
Love the Woolie trio, (but I literally hardly ever use the baby one). I'd add that you get at LEAST the small Daytona brush, better yet both of them. They just go where the Woolies just won't go. The newest Daytona, (the big round one with the rounded end) is GREAT for doing fender wells. :xyxthumbs:
Megs 105... If you're not used to working with it, it wouldn't be the first thing I'd reach for. Grab some Megs UC at least, and mix it with the 105, it'll make for much easier going. Or just step up to 101 and never look back.
Love the 151 however, it is AMAZING!!!!! Keep the 205, and pick up a bottle of the new Microfiber system, D302 polish. (To go with that Microfiber Correction System you're going to order.)
I'd still keep a bottle of UC and UP with me though, they are both THAT good.
IPA, yes everybody needs it. Get a bottle of Eraser and a bottle of TarX,
you'll be more than glad you did. And being as you've already figured out that Sonax is a good thing for wheels, go ahead and get IRON-X with that Eraser and TarX. Corey will be glad you did too!
(Remember you can buy direct from CarPro as well.)
Brushes, you can never have too many brushes. That Mothers kit is a great start. But you need to look into some boars hair and/or horse hair 1" & 1½" brushes, they'll save your bacon. Northern Tool has a pack of Q-tip/cleaning tips in a industrial zip-lock bag. If I remember right it's like 300 pieces. They run everywhere from tiny to the size of the tip your little finger. Good, cheap, cleaning tools.
Wheel sealant, I think somebody else mentioned that. Just too much to spend. Get a bottle of Collinite 845, use that. If they want a real upgrade, use a coating. While we're on wheels, which reminds me of tires. Forget foam applicators for most tires, and grab a pair of the Carrand tire applicator brushes. I bet I've tried a dozen different type of foam, or some type of rubberized foam/sponge on tires. Haven't used them at all since I switched to the Carrand brushes.
Still on wheels, Megs D143 Non-Acid Wheel Cleaner. GREAT STUFF!!! Cleans like crazy, but doesn't hurt any wheels I've seen yet. Another "must have".
You've already had some discussion about Nanoskin pads. No reason at all to shy away from them. The fine grade is great, and will work on anything out there. Only the stupidly soft paint would be a concern, which in that case you would be correcting it anyhow. Some have had a concern with the folding version sticking together however, (I can't state to that because I have the pads for the DA, and the 2 piece set, mild and medium). Just break them in really well on glass when you first use them and you're good to go.
Will you still need clay? Maybe.... :dunno: That little hand held Nanoskin pad, rounded on one end, square corners on the other... it'll get into darned near anywhere you can imagine. Yes I still have clay, but really don't use it unless I just have to on some odd places.
ONR, ONR, ONR.... get it, use it, love it. Straight old fashion (without +WW) and you'll like the ONRWW as well. But at least get the blue version. You can use it for SOOOOOOO many things.
Another thing you can use quite a lot, 303 Aerospace Protectant. For that matter, their entire lineup is great stuff. They also have convertible top cleaners for both fabric as well as vinyl, as well as water proofing/fabric guard. Well rounded group of products worth looking into.
Oh well.... time to go check the brisket. Hopefully it'll be done for dinner tomorrow! Im the MAN
