603vv won't run
- Thread starter BlackC5
- Start date
tuscarora dave
Active member
- Aug 21, 2009
- 5,408
- 12
Process of elimination.
First unplug it from the power source, then open up the polisher and remove the power cord. Using a multimeter on the continuity setting or ohms setting, test the cord to see if there is an open wire in it. If the cord checks out good then move on to the switch and field windings.
With needle nose pliers, remove the connectors "of" the brush leads "from" the contacts where they are connected. This will separate them from the armature preventing a possible false reading from a shorted armature. Test on the ohms setting, between the brush contact (where you disconnected the brush lead from) to the wires going into the switch (the point where you disconnected the cord from).
If it is a variable speed polisher you will need to squeeze the trigger and or increase the speed dial then decrease it while the switch is turned on. If the switch is good, you should observe the ohms value on the mutimeter going from a high number to a low number as you increase the speed dial or squeeze the variable speed trigger and you should observe the ohms value going from a low number back to a high number as the speed is decreased.
If the machine is one speed only (on/off) test for "continuity only" between the switch and the brush contacts, one side will be the hot side and the other side will be the common side, in other words the black wire will test to one brush contact and the white wire will test to the other brush contact so test to both contacts from each switch input wire. Only one brush contact per input wire should show a decrease in ohms as the trigger is squeezed.
This test will check out the tool between the switch input and the field winding output. If the test fails then the problem could still be in the field windings and you will have to separate the switch from the field windings by disconnecting or cutting the leads going from the switch to the field windings. Test the switch and the field windings separately to determine which is the culprit if either.Test the switch as described above. The field windings should be tested from the input wires to the brush contacts for continuity and then again from the contacts to ground. There should be no continuity between the brush contact and ground.
If the switch and field windings check out good then the problem is likely in the armature. This should be checked on continuity setting between ground (armature shaft) and a commutator pole on the armature.There should be no continuity between the shaft and the commutator poles.
If you don't understand any of what I just wrote, contact a company such as Drivekore or another electrical power tools repair company to have it checked out and or repaired. Of course you have the option to just pitch it and buy a new polisher.
First unplug it from the power source, then open up the polisher and remove the power cord. Using a multimeter on the continuity setting or ohms setting, test the cord to see if there is an open wire in it. If the cord checks out good then move on to the switch and field windings.
With needle nose pliers, remove the connectors "of" the brush leads "from" the contacts where they are connected. This will separate them from the armature preventing a possible false reading from a shorted armature. Test on the ohms setting, between the brush contact (where you disconnected the brush lead from) to the wires going into the switch (the point where you disconnected the cord from).
If it is a variable speed polisher you will need to squeeze the trigger and or increase the speed dial then decrease it while the switch is turned on. If the switch is good, you should observe the ohms value on the mutimeter going from a high number to a low number as you increase the speed dial or squeeze the variable speed trigger and you should observe the ohms value going from a low number back to a high number as the speed is decreased.
If the machine is one speed only (on/off) test for "continuity only" between the switch and the brush contacts, one side will be the hot side and the other side will be the common side, in other words the black wire will test to one brush contact and the white wire will test to the other brush contact so test to both contacts from each switch input wire. Only one brush contact per input wire should show a decrease in ohms as the trigger is squeezed.
This test will check out the tool between the switch input and the field winding output. If the test fails then the problem could still be in the field windings and you will have to separate the switch from the field windings by disconnecting or cutting the leads going from the switch to the field windings. Test the switch and the field windings separately to determine which is the culprit if either.Test the switch as described above. The field windings should be tested from the input wires to the brush contacts for continuity and then again from the contacts to ground. There should be no continuity between the brush contact and ground.
If the switch and field windings check out good then the problem is likely in the armature. This should be checked on continuity setting between ground (armature shaft) and a commutator pole on the armature.There should be no continuity between the shaft and the commutator poles.
If you don't understand any of what I just wrote, contact a company such as Drivekore or another electrical power tools repair company to have it checked out and or repaired. Of course you have the option to just pitch it and buy a new polisher.
tuscarora dave
Active member
- Aug 21, 2009
- 5,408
- 12
Advanced Math and piloting airplanes. :xyxthumbs:
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
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TLMitchell
New member
- Oct 1, 2008
- 1,341
- 0
The 2nd we can take care of. On the first I recommend the fingers n toes method.
TL
tuscarora dave
Active member
- Aug 21, 2009
- 5,408
- 12
I'll drive to Ohio to go on a plane ride!! My fingers and toes serve me well!
Glad to be of service. :dblthumb2:
TLMitchell
New member
- Oct 1, 2008
- 1,341
- 0
Instructors don't give "rides".... I teach, you learn. Bring your checkbook.
TL