99 Camaro fresh paint wet sand and buff

Anyway, here is the finished product, gave it a good wash after I was done and a so so dry off, no wax as it has to out gas for 30 days.

I almost begged him to go 2000, 2500, 3000

I welcome all criticism, somebody has already had the hurdles I just jumped over WAAAY behind them.

You did a fantastic job man and the finish looks beautiful! No criticism whatsoever just a pat on the back from an old paint & body guy :xyxthumbs:

Three coats of clear would be classified as "custom" paint. I'd personally add some solvent outgass time. If the finish was baked and sits daily in the sun to cure, I might do 60 days. For a non baked and garage kept vehicle 90 days is usually the rule of thumb. Barry Kives of SPI (the best clearcoat I've sprayed... so far) also recommends the 90 day outgass window with 3 (+) coats of clear.

SPI Clear said:
Never wax a paint job applied this way for at least 90 days. This also depends on the amount of sunlight the car has been exposed to

Perfect Paint Job (last paragraph)

If you ever do the 1000, 2000 and 3000 route... the 3M Trizact 3000 grit (square) is a pure pleasure to use. It's more of a sponge type materiel than paper. I use a shot of spray adhesive on large rubber squeegee and it knocks down the 2000 marks in quick order with very little water (damp sand).
 
You did a fantastic job man and the finish looks beautiful! No criticism whatsoever just a pat on the back from an old paint & body guy :xyxthumbs:

Three coats of clear would be classified as "custom" paint. I'd personally add some solvent outgass time. If the finish was baked and sits daily in the sun to cure, I might do 60 days. For a non baked and garage kept vehicle 90 days is usually the rule of thumb. Barry Kives of SPI (the best clearcoat I've sprayed... so far) also recommends the 90 day outgass window with 3 (+) coats of clear.



Perfect Paint Job (last paragraph)

If you ever do the 1000, 2000 and 3000 route... the 3M Trizact 3000 grit (square) is a pure pleasure to use. It's more of a sponge type materiel than paper. I use a shot of spray adhesive on large rubber squeegee and it knocks down the 2000 marks in quick order with very little water (damp sand).


Does he have to wait to paint rally stripes on the car or put emblems on it?

And thanks, car looks killer....the pictures really don't do it justice. Car is stunning in the sun.
 
]

It's a daunting task. Just how HUGE a project it really is sinks in the moment after you sand the first section.








Just goes to show that with enough patience you can remove sanding marks with good old reliable Porter Cable dual action polisher.



Good job!


:dblthumb2:

It was really apparent when I did my first 2x2 with the M105, I had to do the sides twice with M105. The light in the shop, the sun sets behind the shop, sun comes up right in the door. As I started the M205 I started seeing all the spots that were "not so good" with the reflection of the morning sun coming in the door and me looking at the car from front to rear.

So I backed up and did the M105 on the sides of the car a second time, the upper surfaces were so much easier to see, I did really good on those surfaces.

I will buy me some good lights for the sides of the car, as the shop lights really don't do well for the sides of the car.

And thanks guys, I learned a lot from reading this board.
 
I agree on the 3M 3000, it makes buffing out the paint so much easier.

Either way great job
 
Does he have to wait to paint rally stripes on the car or put emblems on it?

It's more than ready for the second color. Most painters will lay the stripe color down first in just the stripe area, then layout the design (masking), back scuff, shoot the base, pull the masking, then lay the clear. This way you're not masking on fresh finished base, also the tape edge is buried under the clearcoat.

ETA: unless it's a matte/flat stripe. The clear over will add unwanted gloss.
 
Insane shot of part of the hood done.
Will wait for completed correction, I can tell it will look awesome:dblthumb2:

The color is much darker after you corrected it, please take a lot of pics once your done:)
 
Insane shot of part of the hood done.
Will wait for completed correction, I can tell it will look awesome:dblthumb2:

The color is much darker after you corrected it, please take a lot of pics once your done:)


I am done with it for now, when it outgasses I will touch it up and wax it.

Here is my FB Detail album, there are lots of pics of the car at the bottom of it.

https://www.facebook.com/david.driver.169/media_set?set=a.10151735197105314.852162.695920313&type=3
 
Thanx for the comeback mate .


No problemo (In my best Terminator voice).

I cant wait to touch it up and get some wax on it.

He tinted the windows with 20% ceramic tint.....it looks really good.
 
This was a buddy of mine, no charge for this.

Hopefully he sprung for the cold beer after seeing the results! Great job, I only take care of my own vehicles, so I doubt I would even try to do this.

Later,
Lee
 
Hopefully he sprung for the cold beer after seeing the results! Great job, I only take care of my own vehicles, so I doubt I would even try to do this.

Later,
Lee

When I need help on the car, he is Johnny on the spot. We trackday/HPDE these cars. If you look in the first set of pics the pewter car with chrome wheels and burgundy Grand Sport stripes is my car.
 
Here is the car with a coat Meg's NXT 2.0 wax.

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It takes a lot of time to do that much correction with a PC. My hats off to you. The PC burned me out quick and I did an upgrade to the Flexfor quicker correction. It cut 6 hour details to 2 hours. I see you used LC CCS orange pad. What size backing plate and pad did you use?
 
It takes a lot of time to do that much correction with a PC. My hats off to you. The PC burned me out quick and I did an upgrade to the Flexfor quicker correction. It cut 6 hour details to 2 hours. I see you used LC CCS orange pad. What size backing plate and pad did you use?


5.5 pad and I think a 4 inch backer plate.
 
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