A Chemist answers your questions about detailing products
- Thread starter CleanIT
- Start date
The chemist is the director of R + D for B and B blending so it might be a good idea to lift your moratorium Mike haha For this one at least....
First note: Acidic washes are better for road salt. Interesting....i guess it will be a staple in my arsenal now. I'll probably end up using an acidic bucket wash more often then reset or maybe a an acidic pre-rinse followed up with reset...very interesting. Caveat i only wash my car 6 or 7 times a year lol. I know, i Know lol Usually i wash my car once a month during the "warmer seasons". But i work on a ship for 1mth at a time.
Second note: Pan is still a dumb ass.
Third note: The chemist claimed inorganic materials can't "regenerate" AKA self-heal. Coatings are inorganic.
Forth note: Coatings are specially designed for different surfaces, a coating that claims it can be applied to plastic, glass, paint etc is probably not the best choice. A "jack of trades" coating is probably less effective.
Fifth note: Iron removers can harm plastics if left to dwell. Also tar removers should be applied, agitated and rinsed off, no dwell time.
Sixth note: When asked what could the be the next big innovation in car detailing he said he "thinks" it will be ceramic coatings that don't require so much maintenance! I like this guy haha
Last note: Obsessed garage's drying aid is the same product has adams slick and shine.
- Thread starter
- #4
The UV protection part starts around 18 mins in. He also said he doesn't like to see Sio2 % because it's not relative. 44:15 he gets into beading/sheeting and surface tension. He doesn't like beading. Prefers sheeting but there are no chemistries available for that currently.
John U
Active member
- Mar 3, 2006
- 735
- 58
Years ago I was a rep for a product from a company that also made car wax. They made two formulas, one for the USA that beaded and one for Europe that sheeted.... which is what they preferred.
What does he define as 'so much maintenance?'
My ceramic coated Golf R got a wash about once a month and dry with a leaf blower.
I topped it with C2V3 maybe every couple washes...mainly to get the inevitable water drips (even with the leaf blower) that leave water spots.
Besides not washing it at all, not sure how to reduce maintenance, but maybe that's what he's hinting at?
oneheadlite
Well-known member
- Aug 20, 2015
- 1,795
- 100
My big struggle with PPF is having seen too many cars where at first I think the paint job quality is junk (orange peel/small lines/waviness/etc), then I realize it's got full panel PPF.
It could just be whoever's doing the local BMW Dealer PPF jobs, but I've seen a handful of cars where it's turned me off on it.
I really don't know, maybe less toppers....i think that's what he meant.
BudgetPlan1
Well-known member
- Dec 21, 2015
- 2,141
- 209
With on car done w STEK (black paint) and one done with XPEL (gray metallic) I really don't notice much distortion unless I get *real* close and I can see a somewhat linear pattern in the STEK...I think.
PPF will distort the surface appearance if stretched/heated to much during installation though.
I had one person tell me once that they could tell if a white car had PPF or not from a distance of 100 yards. I think he was overstating his abilities somewhat.
Overall, if it was feasible I'd PPF all of my cars; might be because once I do it I feel more comfortable/ease of mind knowing I've done everything I possibly can so I can drive 'em as I wish and at that point, whatever happens...happens, and nothing I coulda done would have made any difference.