A few random detailing questions. Products, techniques, etc

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mossyoakglock

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So I have a few detailing questions on a few different topics and didn't want to start a new topic for each question. I've gotten more into detailing the last few years so I'm still learning but enjoying it all.

1. Do you polish ever time you detail or do you just hit any new scuffs, etc as they show up? My truck is 2008 so there are some slight imperfections but overall the paint is in great shape. If I don't have swirls, should I polish ever time I detail? I get a few surface scuffs from hunting that can buff out individually. Lately I've just been clay baring, buffing any scuffs and then applying sealant/wax for protection. I will also be detailing my sister's 2018 Armada whose paint looks pretty good. I'll probably polish that since it's never been done.

2. What applicator would you recommend for applying Wolfgang Sealant? In all the videos it mentions a yellow pad but gives no specifics. Looking online I've seen the CSS Euro Yellow jewelling pad, the Wolfgang Polish N' Wax applicator and the EZ-Grip hydrotech crimson pad. All of these say that they can be used to apply waxes, sealants, etc. Or something like the Polishing Pal?

3. How much pressure when applying sealant? Same type of pressure as applying a wax? Everything I've watched suggests using the straightline method vs circles.

4. What is a good clay bar kit? I've always used the Meguiar clay kit since I can get it locally for a good price. It works well but wanted to see if there was something better out there.

I think that's it for now but looking for to the answers and insight.
 
mossyoakglock said:
I'll probably polish that since it's never been done.
Click to expand...

IMO You’ve got the correct mindset there... I couldn’t agree more. At the same time if the paint is maintained in tip top shape, then there may not be a need to machine polish for an extended period of time, and I’m talking Years. Yes it’s totally possible.

I have a good friend who’s into detailing his own car who I turned onto waterless washing and he went from bucket washing his car 1-2 times per week to only waterless washing his car for the past 3+ yrs. with Meguiars D115 and when I showed up to provide a “mandatory” detail after 2-3 years I was shocked to find out there was absolutely No bonded contaminants on his paint. 3yrs and the claybar picked up Nothing across his entire car. I was blown away.

Best applicator for applying sealant? Meguiars Soft Foam Applicator [sold in 2 or 4pks] Hands down the absolute best quality foam applicators ever created. You will not find a higher quality applicator. There is no equivalent. Nuff said.

How much pressure when applying sealant? No actual pressure is needed. You’re not doing any sort of “cleaning” nor is a deep tissue “massage” going to get the sealant to apply any deeper into the pores of the paint.. Smooth glides... As long as the liquid sealant gets applied to the paint and has the recommended amount of time to properly apply/bond per manufacturers directions is all that matters. I never apply any sort of pressure or added “passion” when applying a sealant. It’s completely unnecessary.

Do I polish my car everytime I give it the equivalent of a full “detail”? Absolutely not.
I polish for 3 reasons:

1. My paint needs cleaning/could benefit from a paint cleaning.

2. My paint has developed minor swirls from 1 way or another and I want to remove them and restore my paint to it’s full swirl free and super glossy potential.

3. I’m testing products/polishes/compounds....

But for the most part, there’s no actual “need” to polish my own vehicles everytime I give it an full on “detail”

A detailed vehicle can certainly be maintained if the proper care is provided, therefore mandatory “polishing” isn’t “mandatory” at as long as the vehicle has been maintained properly.

Btw I subscribe to “spot polishing” any blemishes/marring/love marks etc. as needed as opposed to polishing the entire cars paint. Polishing is not always necessary.
 
Eldorado2k said:
and when I showed up to provide a “mandatory” detail after 2-3 years I was shocked to find out there was absolutely No bonded contaminants on his paint. 3yrs and the claybar picked up Nothing across his entire car. I was blown away.
Click to expand...

This can absolutely be the case. I’m going even longer than that. Good protection can produce miracle-like results


It’s so true about spot polishing. You can also spot clay. Inspect at every wash and do so as needed. You’ll enjoy all the time you save rather than polishing everything every time.
 
mossyoakglock said:
So I have a few detailing questions on a few different topics and didn't want to start a new topic for each question. I've gotten more into detailing the last few years so I'm still learning but enjoying it all.

1. Do you polish ever time you detail or do you just hit any new scuffs, etc as they show up? My truck is 2008 so there are some slight imperfections but overall the paint is in great shape. If I don't have swirls, should I polish ever time I detail? I get a few surface scuffs from hunting that can buff out individually. Lately I've just been clay baring, buffing any scuffs and then applying sealant/wax for protection. I will also be detailing my sister's 2018 Armada whose paint looks pretty good. I'll probably polish that since it's never been done.

2. What applicator would you recommend for applying Wolfgang Sealant? In all the videos it mentions a yellow pad but gives no specifics. Looking online I've seen the CSS Euro Yellow jewelling pad, the Wolfgang Polish N' Wax applicator and the EZ-Grip hydrotech crimson pad. All of these say that they can be used to apply waxes, sealants, etc. Or something like the Polishing Pal?

3. How much pressure when applying sealant? Same type of pressure as applying a wax? Everything I've watched suggests using the straightline method vs circles.

4. What is a good clay bar kit? I've always used the Meguiar clay kit since I can get it locally for a good price. It works well but wanted to see if there was something better out there.

I think that's it for now but looking for to the answers and insight.
Click to expand...

1. Once you correct the paint to a level you are happy with, you should do all you can to maintain it and protect it so no more correction is needed. Everytime you polish or compound the paint, you are removing a little bit of the paint, and modern day cars have no paint to spare. So you really don't want to be doing this as a maintenance step.

2-3. Any finishing pad should work just fine. A sealant is a synthetic wax, the only major difference in application is that you should be degreasing the panels before applying a sealant, where a wax can be applied without doing this. Only enough pressure that ensure the panel is fully covered, you are not doing any correction in this step. As for lines vs circles: Circles are more efficient but lines are safer if you happen to have sand or dirt on the panel and you scratch the panel while applying the sealant... removing a line scratch is easier than a circle one.

4. I suggest you try NanoSkin Quick Prep sponges instead of clay, they are easier to use and much faster. Otherwise, in my experience Meguiars clay is not really good. I would go with Mothers instead at the retail level.
 
If you where to correct a spot that is needed to be polishing. You can compare the finish you get from from this spot after the last polishing step or the only step. If you see a difference to what you would like see on the rest of the car. You can benefit to get there with a finishing polish. So it's much up to you to evaluate when you think your car would need a polishing. A finishing polish to up the gloss on your paint won't cut that much of clearcoat. If you go full on compounding then you take off a bigger amount of clearcoat. So the least aggressive combo that get you where you want to be.

To minimize the need of polishing is to inspect your detailing methods and the products you use. For an example have you had your wash mitt for a long time it can be just a little worned and a new one would be to get. Inspect your mf towels and actually everthing that touches your paint after you have washed the product clean and it has dried. To see if they are still in great conditions.

Think that the Meguiars retail clay got reformulated during the last 2 years. And only heard that it's been better since. You could get the Meguiars Professional Detailing Clay - C2000 which is of great quality. Also use a clay with different grade on the situation you use it. If you have a lot of contaminants an aggressive clay bar or clay alternatives can be needed. The benefit with medium grade and aggressive clay is that you need less aggitations when doing it. If your car has little contaminants you will only be needing a mild grade one. A great one to use before any correction with a lot of contaminants is 3M Perfect-It III Cleaner Clay - 38070. I have an ultra fine grade to spot clay on the least aggressive way and it's the Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay.

Meguiars Professional Auto Detailing Clay, meguiars C2000 clay bar, Detail Clay cleans better than polishes! Clean your car with Meguiars Detailing

3M Perfect-It III Cleaner Clay, 3m 38070, a paint-cleaning detailing clay that grabs foreign particles as it glides across the paint.

Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay, clay bars, auto clay, paint cleaning bar

Last but not the least important IMO is the claylube you use with both clay bars and clay alternatives if not polishing after the claying. The one I like the most is Dodo Juice Born Slippy Clay Lubricant Concentrate and have just bought Carpro Immolube to test out. And the use of a great claylube minimize the risk of marring. If you combo that with fold the clay often or rinse clean the clay alternatives. You get very little if any marring from claying the paint.

Dodo Juice Born Slippy Clay Lubricant Concentrate, born slippy clay lube, detailing clay lubricant, clay lube concentrate

CarPro ImmoLube 500 ml.

/ Tony
 
Thanks everybody for the insight and answers. I'll take a look at all the products everybody mentioned too.

Here are two pictures of my truck taken today. The whole truck was washed but only the hood was clayed and sealant added. Thoughts on the condition of the paint overall?

View attachment 66213

View attachment 66214

I'll get some pictures of my sister's car once I finish with it.
 
Looks great!

But try to take a picture when the sun is in the reflection. Or take a picture with the flash on your mobile phone camera rather close as a feet away of the car. This will show you too if you can spot any marring and swirls. One of the best light to spot defects on the paint is at a gas station or a parking lot with that orange kind of light. When doing correction work and test spots a dedicated swirl finder light is good to have. Even if it's pricey the Scangrip Sunmatch II light is really great for that. Then it's just how deep you are ready to go LOL. Try to catch your truck in different angles and distance during different lighting to inspect your paint. Some colors is harder to see defects on and your light gray paint is one of them. Light colors is harder overall to spot defects on. But when defect free you get the most gloss from and also the finishing polish step to clear up any haze from a previous cutting step. That's why a test spot is good to be doing to compare the different polishing combo of polish and pads.
 
mossyoakglock said:
So I have a few detailing questions on a few different topics and didn't want to start a new topic for each question. I've gotten more into detailing the last few years so I'm still learning but enjoying it all.

1. Do you polish ever time you detail or do you just hit any new scuffs, etc as they show up? My truck is 2008 so there are some slight imperfections but overall the paint is in great shape. If I don't have swirls, should I polish ever time I detail? I get a few surface scuffs from hunting that can buff out individually. Lately I've just been clay baring, buffing any scuffs and then applying sealant/wax for protection. I will also be detailing my sister's 2018 Armada whose paint looks pretty good. I'll probably polish that since it's never been done.

2. What applicator would you recommend for applying Wolfgang Sealant? In all the videos it mentions a yellow pad but gives no specifics. Looking online I've seen the CSS Euro Yellow jewelling pad, the Wolfgang Polish N' Wax applicator and the EZ-Grip hydrotech crimson pad. All of these say that they can be used to apply waxes, sealants, etc. Or something like the Polishing Pal?

3. How much pressure when applying sealant? Same type of pressure as applying a wax? Everything I've watched suggests using the straightline method vs circles.

4. What is a good clay bar kit? I've always used the Meguiar clay kit since I can get it locally for a good price. It works well but wanted to see if there was something better out there.

I think that's it for now but looking for to the answers and insight.
Click to expand...

1. it depends on how the car is treated, so there's never a great gauge on when to polish and when not too. But I will say that generally for a garaged, well maintained vehicle with good maintenance washes, an annual polish will suffice. Some guys do more, but I honestly don't think it's necessary. It also depends on what you're using as your protectant. An all in one will not last as long as a dedicated sealant. But I would personally not do a polish less than annually, and typically you would use a compound for any new scratches or correction work needed on spots and a polish like menzerna super finish polish for a good once over.

2. i like the blue mf square pads for the trim sealant. for a hand application I think those yellow pads leave a lot to be desired. Honestly you can use a good mf towel if you wanted.

3. light pressure. depending on the sealant you use you should be able to work it in until the product starts to dust or the liquid "disappears" you don't need heavy pressure at all. I like powerlock as it's obvious to me when it's in. You then come back later and wipe clean.

4. spend the money on a synthetic mit. I can't tell you how badly I wish I did this sooner. Griots makes a good one. You can use the soap and suds from your bucket and it's just so much simpler and easier than clay. one panel and you'll be hooked and kicking yourself that you didn't do it sooner. Only trick is to make sure you treat and store the mitt properly, but it's not complicated.
 
I'll get some better pictures tomorrow. Those were the best I could get that day.

For sealants I'm using Wolfgang but want to try Meguiars 21.
 
Belo said:
4. spend the money on a synthetic mit. I can't tell you how badly I wish I did this sooner. Griots makes a good one. You can use the soap and suds from your bucket and it's just so much simpler and easier than clay. one panel and you'll be hooked and kicking yourself that you didn't do it sooner. Only trick is to make sure you treat and store the mitt properly, but it's not complicated.
Click to expand...

I would definitely buy several mitts and wash with them changing them out often. FWIW I will use nothing but the softest sheepskin ones.
 
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