About Compound, Polish and AIO..

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Stevenzee

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Hi AutoGeekers and Mr. Mike Phillips..
Newbie is back for few question :D

1. If there are few RIDS (Random Isolated Deep Scratch), should i compound all the body or only around the RIDS affected area? Then continue polish all the body..

2. What is the differences between Cleaner Wax and Polishing Compound? Cleaner Wax do 3 steps (Compound - Polish - Wax) and Polishing Compound just 2 steps (Compound - Polish)
Is that right?

3. Can i top Cleaner Wax with another type of wax or sealant?
For example Megs GCCW or Klasse Sealant?

4. If i want to only remove swirlmarks, what step should i do? Compound then polish? Or just polish?

5. Refer to No.4, yesterday i tried to remove Swirlmarks by Megs UP and MF Polish Pad.. And the Swirl didn't removed.
So, i tried Megs UC with MF Cutting followed by Megs UP with MF Polishing Pad. And the swirl was removed..

The question is.. If polish can remove swirlmarks, why i can't remove it with Megs UP + MF Polishing Pad? Pressure? Or skill?


That's all.. Hope you can help me to answer this question.:poke: :D
 
By UC you mean ultimate compound right? if so the UC is a lot more aggressive and will remove the majority if the defects the the polish if im not mistaken your supposed ti follow the UC with the UP then a wax.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AG Online
 
zach.rowe1 said:
By UC you mean ultimate compound right? if so the UC is a lot more aggressive and will remove the majority if the defects the the polish if im not mistaken your supposed ti follow the UC with the UP then a wax.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AG Online
Click to expand...

So i should Compound and polish to get 90-100% swirl free finish? Can't only by polishing?
 
No not with UP. This is what i would do wash, clay, compound, polish, wax, then a sealant if you have it if not it is ok

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AG Online
 
sorry sealant then a wax (got mixed up) if you do not have a sealant you can skip that step

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AG Online
 
zach.rowe1 said:
No not with UP. This is what i would do wash, clay, compound, polish, wax, then a sealant if you have it if not it is ok

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AG Online
Click to expand...

Ooo.. Okay.. Thanks Zach..
How about the other question? :D
 
 
Stevenzee said:
Hi AutoGeekers and Mr. Mike Phillips..
Newbie is back for few question :D
Click to expand...

Just now found your post... been kind of busy...


Stevenzee said:
1. If there are few RIDS (Random Isolated Deep Scratch), should i compound all the body or only around the RIDS affected area? Then continue polish all the body..
Click to expand...

Use the system you dial in when doing your Test Spot to create the finish you want and then use this system to buff out the entire car.

Any defects that are remaining are the RIDS and if the car in question is a daily driver, I suggest learning to live with them. If it's important to you to remove them then chase after them individually after you've buffed out the entire car as after buffing out the entire car you will have exposed them.

Make sense?


Stevenzee said:
2. What is the differences between Cleaner Wax and Polishing Compound? Cleaner Wax do 3 steps (Compound - Polish - Wax) and Polishing Compound just 2 steps (Compound - Polish)
Is that right?
Click to expand...

Well a cleaner/wax also called an AIO will,

  • Clean
  • Polish
  • Protect


All in one step.

Compounds and polishes only remove defects. They do not at the same time leave behind protection. At least not any of the pro-grade brands because most of the pro-grade compounds and polishes are also body shop safe, that means no ingredients that will have a negative affect on surface adhesion of fresh paint, i.e. fish eyes.

Read the article on words already posted.



Stevenzee said:
3. Can i top Cleaner Wax with another type of wax or sealant?
For example Megs GCCW or Klasse Sealant?
Click to expand...

Of course you can. A very common and popular example of this practice is the Klasse Twins. People use the Klasse AIO as their paint cleaner with the benefit that it leaves behind some protection and then top with the Klasse SG.



Stevenzee said:
4. If i want to only remove swirl marks, what step should i do? Compound then polish? Or just polish?
Click to expand...

That depends upon,

  1. How deep the swirls are?
  2. How hard or soft the paint is?
  3. The tool you're using?
  4. The pad you're using?
  5. The product you're using?
All of this is something you dial-in when you do your Test Spot.




Stevenzee said:
5. Refer to No.4, yesterday i tried to remove Swirlmarks by Megs UP and MF Polish Pad.. And the Swirl didn't removed.
So, i tried Megs UC with MF Cutting followed by Megs UP with MF Polishing Pad. And the swirl was removed..
Click to expand...

Makes sense. Start out using the least aggressive process to get the job done. If this doesn't work you can start substituting more aggressive,

  • Pads
  • Products
  • Tools


Stevenzee said:
The question is.. If polish can remove swirlmarks, why i can't remove it with Megs UP + MF Polishing Pad? Pressure? Or skill?
Click to expand...

It could be a number of factors,

Skill
Paint hardness or softness
Aggressiveness or non-aggressiveness of pad
Aggressiveness or non-aggressiveness of product


Read this article which is also in my how-to book...



The Graphic Equalizer Analogy to Polishing Paint


Mike Pennington, the Director of Training for Meguiar's, gave me this analogy a long time ago so I want to give him credit for it because it's a good analogy BUT you have to be old enough to remember Graphic Equalizers.

Graphic Equalizers
GraphicEqualizer01.jpg


GraphicEqualizer02.jpg



The analogy being that you can adjust your pad, product, tool and technique just like you can adjust music using a graphic equalizer and when everything is dialed-in perfect for the paint you're working on you'll get the results you're looking for.

It does mean sometimes playing around a little to find the perfect combination of products and procedures kind of like adjusting a graphic equalizer for a single song so it sounds perfect to your ears.

When everything is right... you'll make beautiful music or in this case you create a show car finish.

Of course in order to experiment it means you need to have more than one product in your arsenal of detailing products.

Usually, a good compound, a couple of polishes with correction ability, a finishing polish and some LSP's, this could include cleaner/waxes and finishing waxes.

Clay, Car Wash, Microfiber Towels and if you work by machine then a variety of buffing pads and if you work by hand then a variety of hand applicator pads.


:xyxthumbs:





:)
 
zach.rowe1 said:
No not with UP. This is what i would do wash, clay, compound, polish, wax, then a sealant if you have it if not it is ok

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AG Online
Click to expand...

UP can be more effective than you think, but it all depends on the paint you are working on.

If the paint is soft enough, UP will work great and save you a step. You only want to go as agressive as needed to get the job done. Don't compound if you don't need it.

My Toyota Highlander apparently has really soft paint. I was able to knock out all of the swirls I was after with just UP. When I encountered a couple of scuffs on the car, I was able to get them out with an additional pass with UP. I had the UC on hand but never needed it.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Just now found your post... been kind of busy...




Use the system you dial in when doing your Test Spot to create the finish you want and then use this system to buff out the entire car.

Any defects that are remaining are the RIDS and if the car in question is a daily driver, I suggest learning to live with them. If it's important to you to remove them then chase after them individually after you've buffed out the entire car as after buffing out the entire car you will have exposed them.

Make sense?




Well a cleaner/wax also called an AIO will,

  • Clean
  • Polish
  • Protect

All in one step.

Compounds and polishes only remove defects. They do not at the same time leave behind protection. At least not any of the pro-grade brands because most of the pro-grade compounds and polishes are also body shop safe, that means no ingredients that will have a negative affect on surface adhesion of fresh paint, i.e. fish eyes.

Read the article on words already posted.





Of course you can. A very common and popular example of this practice is the Klasse Twins. People use the Klasse AIO as their paint cleaner with the benefit that it leaves behind some protection and then top with the Klasse SG.





That depends upon,

  1. How deep the swirls are?
  2. How hard or soft the paint is?
  3. The tool you're using?
  4. The pad you're using?
  5. The product you're using?
All of this is something you dial-in when you do your Test Spot.






Makes sense. Start out using the least aggressive process to get the job done. If this doesn't work you can start substituting more aggressive,

  • Pads
  • Products
  • Tools



It could be a number of factors,

Skill
Paint hardness or softness
Aggressiveness or non-aggressiveness of pad
Aggressiveness or non-aggressiveness of product


Read this article which is also in my how-to book...



The Graphic Equalizer Analogy to Polishing Paint


Mike Pennington, the Director of Training for Meguiar's, gave me this analogy a long time ago so I want to give him credit for it because it's a good analogy BUT you have to be old enough to remember Graphic Equalizers.

Graphic Equalizers
GraphicEqualizer01.jpg


GraphicEqualizer02.jpg



The analogy being that you can adjust your pad, product, tool and technique just like you can adjust music using a graphic equalizer and when everything is dialed-in perfect for the paint you're working on you'll get the results you're looking for.

It does mean sometimes playing around a little to find the perfect combination of products and procedures kind of like adjusting a graphic equalizer for a single song so it sounds perfect to your ears.

When everything is right... you'll make beautiful music or in this case you create a show car finish.

Of course in order to experiment it means you need to have more than one product in your arsenal of detailing products.

Usually, a good compound, a couple of polishes with correction ability, a finishing polish and some LSP's, this could include cleaner/waxes and finishing waxes.

Clay, Car Wash, Microfiber Towels and if you work by machine then a variety of buffing pads and if you work by hand then a variety of hand applicator pads.


:xyxthumbs:





:)
Click to expand...

:wow: Mr.Mike Phillips... Thank you for reply..
i always excited to read your comment.. The most easy explanation to understand..
 
Desertnate said:
UP can be more effective than you think, but it all depends on the paint you are working on.

If the paint is soft enough, UP will work great and save you a step. You only want to go as agressive as needed to get the job done. Don't compound if you don't need it.

My Toyota Highlander apparently has really soft paint. I was able to knock out all of the swirls I was after with just UP. When I encountered a couple of scuffs on the car, I was able to get them out with an additional pass with UP. I had the UC on hand but never needed it.
Click to expand...

What pad did you use?
 
Stevenzee said:
:wow: Mr.Mike Phillips... Thank you for reply...

i always excited to read your comment.. The most easy explanation to understand..
Click to expand...


Thank you for the kind words... writing, like detailing is a craft that a person can invest an entire lifetime into learning and maybe even someday perfecting....

I know on a lot of other detailing forums you tend to get one-liners or told to use the search button... I'd like to think that AGO offers a lot more when it comes to help on this forum by all our stellar members.


:)
 
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