? About WolfGang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant

When you put another coating of a different product on top of the sealant, you lose the surface properties of the sealant. WGDGPS has anti-static properties to help keep dust and dirt from sticking. Adding a wax is just asking for dust and dirt to stick. I wish I had gotten some video or pictures, but I had an FJ Cruiser that I kept WGDGPS on, and took it off roading and hit quite a bit of mud, and when I was done, I only had mud on the wheels and on the side rails. Nothing stuck to the paint. It still looked freshly cleaned on the painted surfaces.
 
WOW! Revising a blast from the past thread! What looked good in 2012 looks good now!
 
Rod73 said:
Has anyone topped WGDPS 3.0 with Fuzion specifically within 4 hours and not had any problems with the durability or protection?
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I added fuzion atop the sealant but not after 4 hours. The guess I can assume are two scenarios. When you applied fuzion maybe just maybe you rubbed off some off the sealant which got replaced by the coat of wax. That would definitely affect the durability since the sealant 3.0 last up 6 months and wax maybe two months. The other scenario is it will just take longer to cure. Not really sure how to tell what happened. If it were I would start all over and redo it for piece of mind. It is best to follow manufacturers directions so we do not second guess ourselves. Next time wait the 12 hours for cure time. You can always add the wax later. For added protection I use WG deep gloss paint sealant spray as booster.



AuroraDetailing said:
When you put another coating of a different product on top of the sealant, you lose the surface properties of the sealant. WGDGPS has anti-static properties to help keep dust and dirt from sticking. Adding a wax is just asking for dust and dirt to stick. I wish I had gotten some video or pictures, but I had an FJ Cruiser that I kept WGDGPS on, and took it off roading and hit quite a bit of mud, and when I was done, I only had mud on the wheels and on the side rails. Nothing stuck to the paint. It still looked freshly cleaned on the painted surfaces.
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I agree with auroradetailing. I applied fuzion and it did change how the sealant is supposed to act alone. The fuzion did not bead and sheet water off as good as the sealant by itself. The fuzion attracted dust more also. The vehicle did have a nice deep look with fuzion.

So now to add lasting protection, I use WG deep gloss spritz sealant spray once every 2 months, it adds continued protection and brings back the properties of WG sealant 3.0. It is a very good booster/quick detailer. In between washes I use WG detail spritz, keeps the gloss and slickness, one off the better products I have ever used as quick detailer. Easy to use and keeps the dust away pretty good. For me I will not top the Wg sealant 3.0 with wax anymore unless I am going to be out of town for awhile and want some added protection or want a nice deep look.

Haha yup just noticed it was an old thread, but I am new to wg sealant this year and so far love it. Looks great and makes cleaning super easy.
 
Part of my thinking behind that being that two are in the same family and with the Fuzion having the same kind of polymers with carnauba that they would compliment more as opposed to being a detriment to the protection together.
 
Topping DGPS 3.0 with Fuzion under 12 hours is something I haven't done. I was just asking to explore what I can do, consequences etc.

I have topped Liquid Seal after an hour with Fuzion with good results.
 
Rod73 said:
Part of my thinking behind that being that two are in the same family and with the Fuzion having the same kind of polymers with carnauba that they would compliment more as opposed to being a detriment to the protection together.
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Makes sense since they are very similar to each other BUT I think that even though they are similar they act differently. WG sealant 3.0 needs the 12 hour time to cure because it actually bonds to the paint for the durability, which is why it last up to 6 months. While fuzion does not bond to the paint like the sealant, it is more of a topper. So if you mix the two before the sealant fully cures then in my opinion you are jeopardizing the sealant to bond. I don't know the science or chemistry behind all this but they know more about their product than we could ever know. So if they say 12 hour cure time I am sure there is a reason behind it. My guess is like I stated earlier, for complete bonding. As far as working together yes they work well together and compliment each other. I just like the sealant properties better alone than the two combined. Just personal preference.
 
edgar sanchez said:
what collonite beads water better
and how long does it last
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From my experience...
I honestly don't believe there is
a Collinite that beads water better.

However...
My criteria for what defines: good,
better, or even best water-beading,
may be entirely different than yours.



Bob
 
edgar sanchez said:
are you talkin bout the wolf gang sealant?
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Collinite 845 is one product

WGDPS - Wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant is another product.

The title of the thread is Wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant, so I would say yes he's talking about the wolfgang sealant (the only one they have).
 
Blackthorn One said:
You should wait 45 minutes for the sealant to cure before removing the excess. It makes a big difference in the looks and the longevity.
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Can anyone address this statement made some time ago? I was under the impression WGDGPS 3.0 is a wipe on-wipe off product that did not need to haze or be left on for a period of time prior to removal? Is there any truth to Blackthorn's comment? I use this product regularly and would like to ensure I'm doing all I can to maximize it's efficiency.
 
Blackthorn One said:
You should wait 45 minutes for the sealant to cure before removing the excess. It makes a big difference in the looks and the longevity.
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Pristine Image said:
Can anyone address this statement made some time ago? I was under the impression WGDGPS 3.0 is a wipe on-wipe off product that did not need to haze or be left on for a period of time prior to removal? Is there any truth to Blackthorn's comment? I use this product regularly and would like to ensure I'm doing all I can to maximize it's efficiency.
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First:
There's a difference between
"cure" time, and "drying" time.

Secondly:
(Not so Technically speaking), WDGPS is
not a wipe-on and then turn around and
(almost) immediately wipe-(it)-off product.

Rather:
•Once it's applied...
-You need to wait and let it "dry"
for ~30-45 minutes before buffing.
-Then it needs to remain moisture
free for the proceeding 12 hour
"cure"-time.

This has been the recommended
procedure, in order to achieve the
best results, for as long as I've been
using the 3.0 version of WDGPS.



Bob
 
Thanks Bob, after your input matches that of what the AG product page has for WGDGPS...but I swear I read the instructions on the bottle itself and they were vastly different. I need to check on that this evening when I get home. Though I'm 99% sure I got my product instructions mixed up in my head...
 
The directions on my bottle say to just let it dry to a haze, the directions on the product page say to let it dry 30-45 minutes.

I wonder why the difference?
 
Swanp Gas said:
The directions on my bottle say to just let it dry to a haze, the directions on the product page say to let it dry 30-45 minutes.

I wonder why the difference?
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Ignore both instructions and perform a Swipe Test instead. That's the true way to tell if a "SEALANT" is ready to wipe off or not.

Perform a brisk swipe on the panel, if the area you swiped is smudgy then its not ready. If the area you swipe is crystal clear and you can see the paint below - its ready to buff off.

Menzerna powerlock for me is ready in 15 mins or so. Recently I applied Collinite 845 and it took more than 45 mins...all comes down to the swipe.

 
Thanks! I've seen that video but forgotten all about it, information overload.

I hope I'll be able to tell the difference on white paint.
 
Swanp Gas said:
The directions on my bottle say to just let it dry to a haze, the directions on the product page say to let it dry 30-45 minutes.

I wonder why the difference?
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•I don't see there being a difference.
-In 30-45 minutes the WDGPS should be
"dry" enough to form that "haze".

-When this particular Sealant "hazes",
it will, most assuredly, pass the swipe test.


emmjaygti said:
Ignore both instructions and
perform a Swipe Test instead.

That's the true way to tell if a "SEALANT"
is ready to wipe off or not.
Click to expand...
^^^Not really, IMO.^^^

•Note:
-Being that there are WO/WA Sealants; as
well as "WO(n)/WO(ff)-right away" Sealants...
-The act of: "passing the swipe test"
can't always be the metric to use for
Sealants and their being "ready".



Bob
 
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