Acrylic detaling

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ninjastar

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I was just wondering with a Acrylic aquarium tank, is it possibile to fix the scracthes just like we do paint correction without heavely contaminating the tank itself??
 
ninjastar said:
I was just wondering with a Acrylic
aquarium tank, is it possibile to fix
the scracthes just like we do paint
correction

without heavely contaminating
the tank itself??
Click to expand...
Wet-sanding (400 - 2000 grit); and then
Finish Polish with a good plastic polish;
should get the scratches out of acrylic.

I hope that you'd agree that it'd be best
to drain/empty the aquarium before any
interior scratch repair begins.


Bob
 
It is a plastic and can be wet-sanded and/or polished. Be careful and avoid overheating it, warps and installed thermal stress can lead to cracks and failure. If the scratches are very deap, might be time for a new aquarium.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
I was thinking of doing the following

1-v34 orange pad
2-v38 green pad
3-plastic x white pad

Im trying to avoid sanding down as much as possibile because I feel like its going to open a can of worms.

Well I just order something called NOVUS and still debating on how should I approch it with the least aggressive form.
 
I've been a salt water tank owner for over 25 years. I don't think I'd ever put any type of chemicals such as car polishes on the inside of the tank and ever expect to get every last bit of it out and not contaminating the inside of the tank. All it takes is one micro drop of dried polish left behind and you'll have dead fish. If you're just thinking about the outside then go for it.
 
So outside I can go to town on it like paint correction and on the inside just the novus with a da??
 
ninjastar said:
So outside I can go to town on it like paint correction and on the inside just the novus with a da??
Click to expand...


Some plastics can be really hard. Old school "Plexiglas" is soft and easy to sand and buff but from experience most plastics are not like old school plexiglass and are much harder.

You can still work on them but remember, sanding is easy, that's putting scratches into the plastic... getting them 100% out is the tricky part, especially if you're using a free spinning orbital polisher to remove the sanding marks.


I'd for sure do a little test spot.


:)
 
So what steps would you recommend on the inside vs the outside?
 
ninjastar said:
So what steps would you recommend on the inside vs the outside?
Click to expand...

If it were me, I would try Meguiar's PlastX for my polish.

For removing sanding marks, check out the Griot's Finishing Papers made by Nikken. These are electronics grade, much better and safer than automotive grade.

But again, back to what I said, my you need to find out if you can even work on this plastic. It's possible it's so hard you won't be able to get your sanding marks out. It's possible it's so soft it will be easy to sand and buff.

You won't know until you do some testing. Make it easy on yourself, test on the outside first. This will tell you if you even have to worry about the inside.


:)
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Are those available here at Autogeek? First I've heard of them.
Click to expand...


Yes.

Griot's just introduced them to their line and we just received them in our warehouse.

I'll be showcasing them at the upcoming May detailing class which only has 2 seats left in it before it's sold out.

I also have 3 wet sanding projects coming up. One of these will be a full-on 2-day class for anyone that is interested and as is our norm... the people that attend this class won't be working on demo hoods, cookie sheets or even rental cars but the real deal.

A 1967 Camaro and a 1956 Lincoln, both with custom paint jobs and both with orange peel and surface texture. I'm in the planning stage right now for scheduling.

The other wet sanding project is a Chevy Streetrod pickup.


The real deal....


:dblthumb2:
 
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