Advice/Suggestions with my detailing work . . .

[hydrohopper]

Ok, I would consider myself getting into the advanced levels of detailing. I'm comfortable using my G220, and just recently picked up a rotary.

(all the following is with Meguiars products)
Once I get a job to do, I'll inspect the paint. After a good wash and dry, I'll clay the car. If there are any noticable scrathes, I'll use Scratchx to get them out. After I'm done I use a cutting foam pad with ultimate compound, then go to a finishing pad with swirlx, and use a finishing pad to apply the wax.

When done, I'm happy with the results. Any advice/suggestions to give?

I have noticed though, I believe I need a more aggressive chemical to use at the start than just the ultimate compound. . . what would you suggest? - or using a wool pad on the rotary with ultimate be aggressive enough?

Out of all this, I don't use a polish . . . is there a need? When using Ultimate Compound and Swirlx is there a need?

THANKS!!!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Since this is your first post...

Welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:

When done, I'm happy with the results. Any advice/suggestions to give?

That's actually a very tried and true system approach that will tackle about 90% of anything you come up against.

Some will suggest you can refine your results to an even higher level by doing a second polishing step using a less aggressive product than the M205 but whether that's a good step to add probably depends on what type of work you're doing, (show cars or daily drivers), and whether or not you are able to charge for this extra step.

For the most part, after the M205 and then after applying any good quality LSP the results are going to be around 100% with your choice of LSP taking the results to the paints maximum potential or close to it.

I have noticed though, I believe I need a more aggressive chemical to use at the start than just the ultimate compound. . . what would you suggest? - or using a wool pad on the rotary with ultimate be aggressive enough?

That's another tried and true combination for an aggressive first step. M105 is formulated for removing #1200 Grit Sanding Marks in a body shop environment, (that means fresh/soft paint), and that's pretty aggressive for a product that can also finish out almost LSP ready.

It kind of comes back to what are you working on and what is the goal? Also what are you charging for the goal?

We have a product here at AG called XMT Heavy Duty Swirl Remover #4 Polishing Compound and it's some serious cutting compound in the tradition of rocks in a bottle but while it will cut very fast it's 100% mandatory that you come back and remove the swirls it leaves in.

I've never been a fan of products like this in the past but actually find myself using it once in a while and like having it in my tool chest of products. So there's an option you can try and see if you like it for the kind of work you're doing.

Out of all this, I don't use a polish . . . is there a need? When using Ultimate Compound and SwirlX is there a need?

THANKS!!!

SwirlX is categorized as a cleaner/polish, that is it cleans or abrades and then polishes to a high gloss.

If you're happy with this as your finishing polish then that aligns with my Sig Line.

 

[hydrohopper]

First, thanks for the welcome. I've spent many days just reviewing the information before I start posting. Second, thanks for a good reply. On other forums I would have gotten . . . Sounds good to me . . .

I'm really doing daily driven vehicles and a few show cars.

Ok, so M205 is not as aggressive as Swirlx? So if I just used a cutting pad with Ultimate Compound, when would you suggest when to use Swirlx or M205? Or . . . use both . . . Swirlx then M205?

Most of the vehicles that I do are not in horrible shape. Usually they've been taken car of (your simple wash often but no buff work). Nothing like horribly neglected paint. So maybe for me staying away from the more aggressive compounds is a good idea. Really Ultimate Compound really cuts good with the wool pad attached to the rotary.

Sorry for all the questions . . . This is also why I will continue buying from you.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

First, thanks for the welcome. I've spent many days just reviewing the information before I start posting. Second, thanks for a good reply. On other forums I would have gotten . . . Sounds good to me . . .

Autogeek is all about customer service, this starts at the very top with Max and the rest of us follow his example. That's the best form of leadership.

I'm really doing daily driven vehicles and a few show cars.

That's the norm, nothing wrong with this either, there's a larger market of daily drivers than there ever will be for only show car work.

Ok, so M205 is not as aggressive as Swirlx?

Correct. Here's the order of aggressiveness...

So if I just used a cutting pad with Ultimate Compound, when would you suggest when to use Swirlx or M205? Or . . . use both . . . Swirlx then M205?

Hopefully you could use either or with a polishing pad or a finishing pad and reach a clear finish.

This is where I do and teach what's called a Test Spot.

That is before I buff out the entire car I first test out a few products, pads and my process to one small area and dial-in a process that produces the results I'm looking for, once I confirm my process then it's no longer a guessing game as to how the paint will end up looking and I duplicate the process over the rest of the car.

In your situation, if the car is a daily driver and you're charging $150.00 for the complete job, whether that's inside and outside or just outside, I would be washing, claying and using a one-step cleaner/wax, not a multiple step process. I also would not have promised the customer a show car finish but skimmed over the topic and kept the focus on claying the paint to remove above surface bonded contaminants and then restoring a clear and shiny finish, not removing each and every swirl and scratch.

Most people driving a daily driver don't know what swirls are or don't want to pay to have them removed to have a show car finish, they also probably wouldn't take care of a show car finish so it would be a disservice to them to do that kind of work. Instead of removing all the swirls just make the paint shiny and you can do that in one-step with a cleaner/wax.

I don't know what you're charging and how much work you're doing but doing a 3 step process to any average size car should be at a minimum $150.00 and that doesn't include the interior and only minimal anything else besides paint. If anyone reading this is doing the entire car, inside detailing, trunk, glass, wheels and tires, trim AND the paint for around $150.00 then you really shouldn't be doing a multiple step process as it's going to take too long.

The difference between a swirl and squirrel

Most of the vehicles that I do are not in horrible shape. Usually they've been taken car of (your simple wash often but no buff work). Nothing like horribly neglected paint. So maybe for me staying away from the more aggressive compounds is a good idea. Really Ultimate Compound really cuts good with the wool pad attached to the rotary.

If you're bringing a compound and wool pad down onto paint with a rotary buffer you should be in the $300.00 plus range for a multiple step buff-out and that's exterior only.

Sorry for all the questions . . . This is also why I will continue buying from you.

:xyxthumbs:

 

[hydrohopper]

Wow again thanks. . . .

It's all coming together now. Really helping so much!!

If you are looking for just a nice shiny paint job - then going with a wash, clay, and cleaner/wax is all you need; however swirl marks and light scratches will still be there.

If you are looking for a nice shiny paint swirl free and scratch free - then going with a wash, clay, cleaner, polisher, wax is the route to go.

I need to do more research too, before offering prices.

 

[tuscarora dave]

Mike, You are a great asset to this site and this industry, Thank you and AG for the sharing all of your wisdom and experience. I fit the description exactly of the guy who dives in head first attempting to make show cars out of daily drivers. This upcoming detailing season I plan to market the one step approach reserving the 3 step for the big money jobs.

Hydro hopper, Hang in there and be careful with that rotary, I suggest practicing with on a few beater cars before trying to make money with it. As far as advice I believe Mike covered that. So Welcome to the site and practice, practice, practice.