After removing tape....

StuDLei

StuDLei

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What's your procedure? This is kind of a noob question, but today I did a 2-step polish on the 350z. I properly taped everything off beforehand, but when I pulled the tape off I had a somewhat hardened line of product that had built up along the edge. Do you guys just take a towel and rub it down really hard to get it off? Just curious what the norm is here; I've never seen this asked before.

When I'm polishing, I try to stick on one panel at a time, but sometimes it's almost impossible to not cross over cracks between say the door and the quarter panel. Polish inevitably ends up in there. Does everyone deal with this or is there something you can do to avoid it? There are certain lines on this car that are going to get polish in them. I think I was able to get it all out, I'm just trying to reassure myself that even the pros have to deal with it, at least in certain spots.

Right??
 
So I asked this pretty much same question to Rasky on here. He basically said we are using the wrong type of tape.

Apparently what we are using are meant for hard to stick to surfaces, so basically you need to get one that doesn't stick to much, but just enough to be able to peel with no residue. Let me see if I can find his post.

As for your second question, polish does not have to eventually in there. Work your product in for a minute or so on the paint, and then cross over the seam and you will have no sling of polish into the cracks :)
 
ihaveacamaro said:
So I asked this pretty much same question to Rasky on here. He basically said we are using the wrong type of tape.

Apparently what we are using are meant for hard to stick to surfaces, so basically you need to get one that doesn't stick to much, but just enough to be able to peel with no residue. Let me see if I can find his post.

As for your second question, polish does not have to eventually in there. Work your product in for a minute or so on the paint, and then cross over the seam and you will have no sling of polish into the cracks :)
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Thanks for the reply man.

Regarding my first question though, I was taking about the polish that builds up on the edge of the tape and then when you pull the tape off you have a line right where that edge was.

I was able to get it off with a little elbow grease, just wondered if this was the norm and everyone has to do it.
 
StuDLei said:
Thanks for the reply man.

Regarding my first question though, I was taking about the polish that builds up on the edge of the tape and then when you pull the tape off you have a line right where that edge was.

I was able to get it off with a little elbow grease, just wondered if this was the norm and everyone has to do it.
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Your typical IPA mix (17-20% isopropyl alcohol to water) in a spray bottle makes it child's play to remove and unless you're scrubbing like a mad man it shouldn't bother the trim's finish.
 
RoadRageDetail said:
Your typical IPA mix (17-20% isopropyl alcohol to water) in a spray bottle makes it child's play to remove and unless you're scrubbing like a mad man it shouldn't bother the trim's finish.
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I used some carpro eraser after awhile and it seemed to work pretty well. I only have the tiny sample sized bottle, so I was using it pretty sparingly.
 
I use IPA mixed to about 20% as well.

I've never tried it, but I've read a lot of people treat the trim before polishing and it makes the dust/polish not stick. I use to be an automotive painter at a dealership so taping a car doesn't take me nearly as long.
 
I know what you are talking about. I hate the glue that tape can leave. I bought the green supper sticky 3M tape thinking it would be better. The glue oozes out of the tape and can get on your towels and make a mess and even cause marring. I think the blue tape is better
 
I'm going to have to start getting the blue tape. How much overlap of tape do you guys do? When I tape trim, I try to get it as close to the edge as possible, but want to make sure it's completely covered too. When I did the roof of my car I ended up with a super skinny line of uncorrected paint that the tape was covering. It doesn't bother me, and it was nice to see the results I produced, but wondered if there were any ways to get around this, without spending 100 years getting the tape p e r f e c t. Just practice and experience?
 
I recently purchased the tape offered by Griot's garage (made by another company that I can't think of at the moment), and this tape is awesome! It's super thin, durable, more flexible than a former olympic gymnast turning tricks, doesn't gum up like the green 3M tape, and pulls off nicely. Plus, the fact that its so thin helps to reduce, but not eliminate the product buildup along the edge. I highly recommend picking up a roll of this tape, despite its $8 price tag.

As for the residue buildup along the edge, CarPro Eraser is my go-to product for removing this.
 
About to pick up a bottle of Eraser, I miss it.
 
Okay, I found the bag the tape I posted about last night came in...

Here's the info:

K-UTG Gold Tape
#48060 3/4" x 55yd (19 mm x 50 m)
UPC: 620314480604

Here's the thickness of the different tapes according to my CM8801FN PTG (3+ reading average with tape placed on the calibration disc):

3/4" K-UTG Gold Tape: 3 mils
18 mm 3M Green Automotive Performance Masking Tape: 6 mils
36 mm 3M Green Automotive Performance Masking Tape: 5.5 mils
48 mm 3M Green Automotive Performance Masking Tape: 5.5 mils
1/4" 3M Precision Masking Tape (#06525): 2.8 mils
18 mm Meguiar's Professional Tape: 4 mils
48 mm Meguiar's Professional Masking Tape: 4.5 mils
1.5" 3M Scotch-Blue Painters Tape (#2090): 3.5 mils

Somewhat surprising to see thickness variations among tapes from the same product line where the only difference is width. It's possible that these variations could be because of the PTG or the "texture" of the tape. The only tapes that didn't vary were the K-UTG Gold Tape and the 3M Precision Masking Tape.

Ok, that was far more information than needed, but interesting nonetheless...
 
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