AIO or just a polish?

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newb001

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Any thoughts on whether or not it's necessary to use an AIO (like KAIO) vs. a pure polish (like 1Z Einszett Paint Polish) if I'm topping with a Collinite wax (845 or 915) anyway?
 
I'm not a fan of AIO's. I would polish then wax IMO.
 
I'm no pro but I would think that just clean paint would be best for a straight wax as opposed to a synthetic sealant layer in between. It might be fine but when Collinite was making their wax they had good clean paint to test it on, so that's what I'd do. FWIW.
 
newb001 said:
Any thoughts on whether or not it's necessary to use an AIO (like KAIO) vs. a pure polish (like 1Z Einszett Paint Polish) if I'm topping with a Collinite wax (845 or 915) anyway?
Click to expand...

What condition is the paint in?

An AIO or Cleaner/Wax is often used by people as a paint cleaner, (with wax in it), to clean and prep the paint for the actual wax the person wants to use on their car. The fact that the cleaner/wax is also leaving behind some protection is just a bonus for most people.

A "Pure Polish" is generally a non-abrasive or non-cleaning polish and is used to maximize gloss and clarity before the wax or sealant is applied.

If you're referring to this specific product,

1Z Einszett Paint Polish Lack-Politur

Then it's not a "Pure Polish", it's a cleaner/polish. Note the description of the product from the above webpage,

1Z Einszett Paint Polish Lack-Politur contains no harsh abrasives so there is no risk of micro-marring. The cleaner polish removes contaminants, including rough, oxidized paint, to minimize swirls and scratches. Paint will look more vibrant and glossy for months!
​


You would typically use a product like this to restore a neglected finish before applying a wax or sealant in the same way some people will use a cleaner/wax as a paint cleaner before applying a wax or a paint sealant.

:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
What condition is the paint in?
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Thanks Mike. The paint is in good condition as the car (black Audi) is only a few months old. However, at this point I have already done a wash/clay/KAIO/845, and apparently didn't do the best job as I noticed streaking (or something) a few days later (not sure if from KAIO or 845). I tried to clean it up with a QD spray but it didn't really work. So I'm thinking at this point that something like the 1z would be better for my next big wash, as it may do a better job of clearing everything up before I use the 845? I do however see that you mentioned that a product like 1z would be used to restore a neglected finish, which mine isn't, so now I don't know what to do... Thanks for any further thoughts!
 
Depending on the color, newer black Audi/VW paint is VERY soft. I bet it has some marring/swirls already from pure washing. What pad did you use the AIO with? By machine or by hand?

I have used Ultrafina on a black pad under the PC for correction on newer Audi/VWs!

How hard is the Collinite to remove? This could also be causing marring. You will have to inspect at each step of the prpcess. If you are getting marring from removing the wax (not leftover hazing that can be wiped off), try an easier product to seal, like Wolfgang DGS3.0 (still the easiest stuff to apply/remove IMO). The durability of Collinite is not worth it if it is so hard to remove and will cause more damage. Just use any other sealant reapply sooner.
 
jlb85 said:
Depending on the color, newer black Audi/VW paint is VERY soft.
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Wow! I've found just the opposite, I've found black Audis to be very hard and difficult to remove swirls and scratches out of, but keep in mind paint technology is always changing so the paint system used at a manufacture plant in 2009 might be completely different than a paint system used in 2010, that's why it's usually not a good idea to make generalizations about factory paint hardness.

The only cars that seem to remain a constant as far as paint hardness goes are modern Corvettes.


:)
 
newb001 said:
So I'm thinking at this point that something like the 1z would be better for my next big wash, as it may do a better job of clearing everything up before I use the 845?
Click to expand...

Should work, but the description of the product but I have not used this product personally so I don't know it's abilities.

Are you working by hand or machine? If by machine, which type?


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Wow! I've found just the opposite, I've found black Audis to be very hard and difficult to remove swirls and scratches out of, but keep in mind paint technology is always changing so the paint system used at a manufacture plant in 2009 might be completely different than a paint system used in 2010, that's why it's usually not a good idea to make generalizations about factory paint hardness.

The only cars that seem to remain a constant as far as paint hardness goes are modern Corvettes.


:)
Click to expand...


Interesting. I find older VWs to be harder! Oh well. But we have done a few 2010 Audi//VWs this year and they have all been soft. Not as bad as BMW Jet Black or Honda's Berlina Black, but soft. They do finish down very well easily. I'm trying to remember what we did for the pre-2010 Audis this year, and I think they were all moderate to softer. I think I even corrected an RS4 with M205... I'll see what I can find in my log and confirm.

We just did a red 09 Z06 and much to my surprise found it to be moderate and not hard as nails as I expected. Refined with Ultrafina on rotary and came out stunning!
 
If your working by hand I'd go with pinnacle or P21s paint work cleansing lotion then your 845... trying to polish by hand, while possible, is probably not going to do much for you except give your a sore arm.
 
i just used some zymol hd cleanser before applying a wax and was very impressed. little bit of work since it is by hand but the paint was incredibly clean and ready for wax. bit pricey but i will try my p21s cleanser next and compare
 
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