AIO recommendations

Justin M. said:
Now I am really liking the sound of this product. If I could do away with, or really lower, the amount of time it takes to clean-up an AIO, that would be awesome.

I have to wipe away Klasse AIO much like you wipe away a carnuba wax. It wipes off easy majority of the time, but sometimes it will really stick on and be difficult to remove (usually when not applied thin enough).
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Important to mention again, to use very little product with BF TPnS or it can be difficult to remove. Just as others have said, it will almost disappear into the paint after a few section passes if you apply it very thin. I think it will be better to do one section a couple times with very little product rather than using too much and trying to take it to say 5 or 6 section passes. This is from my experience using it on several cars. I use maybe 1.5-2 oz. for an entire car.

Also would be good to pick up a bottle of BF Polymer Spray as this can be used to remove TPnS if you do get it on too thick and end up with some stubborn spots to remove.

Might help to watch Todd Helme's how-to thread on this product on autopiaforums.com
 
Meticulous-Detail said:
Megs D151 for nice correction and around 3 months protection. DG 501/601 for a nice paint cleaner and 5- 6 months protection.
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:iagree: with all of these! Megs 151 is hard to *not* have around. ;)

Heck, even Megs 300/301 in a pinch will do just fine.
 
PERFECTIONPLUS said:
optimum gps
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:dblthumb2: just used this on my white Camaro and did a nice job. Now if you want to put something as a topper I used Pete`s 53 but there are other products out there. I was going to try Mequires white but had Pet`s 53 handy. As Bob said K.I.S.S apply method.

Remember to prep, this will up in getting your best shine...
 
Justin M. said:
I am currently using Klasse AIO. Finish turns out pretty good. It must be applied very very thin however, otherwise it is a pain to remove.

Looks like I will have to give the Blackfire product a try.
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wdmaccord said:
Important to mention again, to use very little product with BF TPnS or it can be difficult to remove. Just as others have said, it will almost disappear into the paint after a few section passes if you apply it very thin. I think it will be better to do one section a couple times with very little product rather than using too much and trying to take it to say 5 or 6 section passes. This is from my experience using it on several cars. I use maybe 1.5-2 oz. for an entire car.

Also would be good to pick up a bottle of BF Polymer Spray as this can be used to remove TPnS if you do get it on too thick and end up with some stubborn spots to remove.

Might help to watch Todd Helme's how-to thread on this product on autopiaforums.com
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Let us know how it worked out Justin.

Eggzactly on using very little BFTPS. Good tips as well wdmaccord..........:dblthumb2:

I've never tried XMT360 and/or Meguairs D151. Being of a curious ilk, when spring rolls around I'll try both of them.
 
Whats the durability of BFTPS? Is it necessary to top w/ a wax?
thanks
 
For when I want more correction it's either Megs D151, or their "white wax". Really amazing what these can do with a green hexlogic pad.

Never tried blackfire products before (kind of a pain to find a dealer that ships to Belgium without paying ridiculous shipping costs), but I'd like to try some...
 
BlackRam said:
Whats the durability of BFTPS? Is it necessary to top w/ a wax?
thanks
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In my experience, the BF TPnS on its own is not very durable. It also seemed to shorten the life of the BF WD sealant when it was used to top the AIO base layer. I have had issues removing it cleanly also.
 
DBAILEY said:
It also seemed to shorten the life of the BF WD sealant when it was used to top the AIO base layer. I have had issues removing it cleanly also.
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Was this based upon using it both ways?
 
Yes, when I first got it I tried it few times on my pickup on its own and it did not last very long. I then used it with BFWD on top and it did not last as long as BFWD on its own. I have one customer that loves the look of BFWD on his Challenger and the time I tried using the AIO first instead of a 1-step polish, the owner commented that it did not last as long as it usually does. It normally gets 2 layers of BFWD on its own. So it had a layer of TPnS sealant and then 2 layers of BFWD.

So that confirmed it for me. I haven't used it much since then except for in the door jambs and such. Too bad, as it does have decent correction & cleaning ability.
 
+1 on BlackFire. If you follow the directions no buffing required -1 less step
 
I just saw that you could Compound then AIO? To skip a step? This was done on a boat, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on a car. Given that the AIO can remove the compound.

Anyone have more info on this?
 
hernandez.art13 said:
I just saw that you could Compound then AIO? To skip a step? This was done on a boat, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on a car. Given that the AIO can remove the compound.

Anyone have more info on this?
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I've done this and works normally, I was in a hurry and compounding took too long, so I would not have time to do polish and seal (with the whole buffing involved area by area while polishing, then sealing, then buffing again)... I just went with XMT360 (following M105) and finished on time with results I was expecting - and being paid for.

For a full correction work I would not rely on this approach.

I also don't see why there may be something wrong with this combination.

Please, let me know.

Kind Regards.
 
Poorboys Polish with Sealant. Easy to use, can be used in direct sunlight, has some bite that can be amped up by going to a more aggressive pad. It won't stain trim. I like to top it with Collinite 845. Quick, simple, durable mini detail.
 
My vote goes to D151, but lately I've been using HD Speed with great results.
image_zpsa3ab2d6b.jpg
 
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