Airbrush Touch Up

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Crazy Amos

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What's up everybody? I have a Cadillac to do on Friday and will be doing a rather large rock chip touch up on the front along with the grill seam problem. Since the spots are so large I am thinking of using an airbrush instead of a brush and needle. I have only done a couple like this and my skills in the airbrush department are still in their infancy and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions tp approaching this? I also will be using an air eraser to remove the rust-works unbelievably well by the way!

Any suggestions at all are appreciated! Thanks in advance!
 
When painting, remember at all times that multiple light coats is going to be less prone to runs than a single heavy coat. Also, tune in your spray gun using a piece of cardboard before going to the car. Make sure your volume and dispersion are adequate for the job. Finally, tape and mask everything you don't want getting oversprayed.

What type of paint are you using? What is your compressor's cfm and rated psi? Is it adequate for the gun you will be using? Are you going to spray a clear?
 
Thanks for replying JonMiles. There as been alot of views but no respones. My airbrush is rated for 60 psi and my compressor is a 4 gallon 115 psi max so they work well together. I usually work around 30-40 psi and it seems to work well.

I just want to clarify that I am looking to reduce the wet sanding time. Anytime you touch up and want the best result you usually need to wet sand and polish. With that said since I made the decision to switch to the airbrush I was hoping to reduce the amount of time to wet sand afterward. If not it actually takes less time to touch up with a brush because there is basically no set up time required. With airbrush I have to tape everthing off which takes a bit of time. I already have the compressor set up for the rust removal so thats no big deal.

I will post my process and hopefully some of you can correct or possibly help me polish it out.

1. Obviously clean car
2. Use a solvent to remove any wax or residue left in and around the damaged area.
3. Tape off area
4. Remove rust with air eraser.
5. Blow the area with an air gun to remove left over grit
6. Wipe again with solvent and then dry
7. Apply primer/base coat
8. Dry with heat gun
9. Apply second coat if needed to bring the depth closer to the paint
10. Apply paint - let dry
11. Remove tape and check
12. Retape and spray again
13. remove tape and check
14. Retape and spray
15. Same steps 10-14 if needed
16. Feathersand edges level with surface
17. buff out

I haven't been using clear but maybe I should? It has been drying quite glossy and after the sealant and wax it is good to go. Just takes longer right now.

Thanks again!
 
Hey tfullercdi,

Have you used the air eraser before? If so, how do you like it? I have a few rust spots I need to take care of and never heard of the air eraser until your post.

I was in the corrosion shop for a few years while in the service and worked on airplanes. Cars are a whole different ball game.

Looking forward to your posts.

Good luck,
Dave
 
Hey what's up? You know I try not to over sell things but I have to tell ya - I dont thnk there is an easier way to remove rust than this. Especailly when it comes to the small spots like rock chips. I was using a sanding pen but now I don't think I will ever again! I run 60 psi with 220 grit that's used for window etching and it blasts the dust pod like you or I would blow dust off of a table.

There isn't much to them either so I would just get the one from harbor freight. It's called an air eraser and is size of an airbrush. You can get into some pretty tight spots with it. The one I bought was on sale for 18.99 but I think it ends at the end of this month.

Just make sure when you are done you blow the excess grit off of the panel or you may end up with more scratches than you started with. Hope this helps and good luck!
 
Thanks Brother! Will definitely check this out. When do you plan on doing the work? Post some after pics.
 
What kind of air brush are you using? Just curious. btw, good luck.

Tim
 
It's made by Central Pnuematic and if this process produces better results I may buy an iwata but it has worked well for what I need it for. There's really nothing that its real detailed about this-I just need it to spray evenly which it does.

I wasn't able to get to the touch-up yesterday because the interior took so long to detail but will be starting on it shortly. I am taking pics of the entire detail and will post them when finished - paint correction and all.

Will keep you guys posted!
 
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