Airplane Detailing at Autogeek - Using a one step cleaner wax

For a plane in that condition and of that age it is looking great!!!
 
Update


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Sorry for the late response. It’s taking me awhile to do this plane. More of the cleaning aspect is taking a long process. I’ve been using BLACKFIRE waterless wash, Clay bar, BF clay lube,BF compound, BF polish, BF sealant. Also as of last week I upgraded my porter cable to a griots 21. So I will see if that will help some of the buffing time. I wish I did have better lighting to show the gloss of the paint. It’s definitely improved. Any tips or suggestions I’m always open for. Thank you everyone.


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All that is really left is the top of the tail, the wings and the underbody of the plane. Hopefully I’ll have some time this weekend to play with it. Also soon I should be posting a video of it taxing around soon.


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Most aircraft do not have clear coat so you need to be careful not to burn through paint.

Take the time and go slow!


Correct.

And no matter how careful you are when working by machine on airplanes, it's pretty much impossible to not burn through the overlapping aluminum panel edges or the heads on the rivets.


Just how it goes....


:)
 
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Slow updates, but it has improved from where it started. I have a video of it running, but for some reason I can only upload pictures here.


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That looks worlds better now. Happy flying!

At Embry Riddle Aero Univ we had a fleet of 310's for multi training. Great twin and a bit "pully" on engine outs. Behaves well on 1 though.
 
What’s left on the plane, is for me to finish flight training. Send the props off for the AD. Gear rigging and one more Nav/COMM radio. Also finish the paint. So it’s almost there


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That looks worlds better now. Happy flying!

At Embry Riddle Aero Univ we had a fleet of 310's for multi training. Great twin and a bit "pully" on engine outs. Behaves well on 1 though.

Thank you! I’ve heard mixed reviews on single engine performance, but if I follow the numbers it shouldn’t be to bad. I might install a VG kit to try and help improve stall speeds. I’m just ready to get it flying to share more progress.


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More...


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I did some more detailing on the 310 today. I forgot to take a before picture my mistake. I used BF WW, and Clay Mitt. Then began the compounding with Blackfire.

I first started with a Meguiars microfiber pad, but wasn’t very impressed. Then I tried and buff and shine uro pad and I really liked it a lot. My reasoning why, it was so sensitive to rivets and gumming up.

Then I started cleaning the plexiglass, I didn’t get a before picture unless you look at my previous pictures.

I do have some sort of fuel stains and oil stains in the paint that I will later have to figure out how to remove.


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Hi Matt,

Progress is looking good! That's a huge project to tackle all by yourself.

When it comes to the fuel stains, because you're working on single stage paint, the staining is going to be "in" the paint, not just "on" the paint. Compounding will be the only option that will remove what can be removed. Be careful not to go after the staining too hard you may buff all they way through the paint.


Plexiglas looks good!

Most people don't know the difference between Plexiglas and all the other types of plastic on the market and used in various industries. Plexiglas is VERY EASY to buff out. I've never seen Lexan made perfect - too hard.


Keep up the good work!


:dblthumb2:
 
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Another update, I tried to take more pictures I’m really bad about before and afters. For this process I used both BF compound and Sonax cut max. Which one do I prefer I’m not sure to early to tell, since the sonax just arrived from auto geek. Polish I used the BF polish and Sonax Ex 04-06 still more experimenting with the sonax. Pad waist I used buff and shine uro fiber & uro polishing pad.


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Hi Matt,

Progress is looking good! That's a huge project to tackle all by yourself.

When it comes to the fuel stains, because you're working on single stage paint, the staining is going to be "in" the paint, not just "on" the paint. Compounding will be the only option that will remove what can be removed. Be careful not to go after the staining too hard you may buff all they way through the paint.


Plexiglas looks good!

Most people don't know the difference between Plexiglas and all the other types of plastic on the market and used in various industries. Plexiglas is VERY EASY to buff out. I've never seen Lexan made perfect - too hard.


Keep up the good work!


:dblthumb2:

I’m lucky that my wife is a big help cleaning this plane. I was nervous about the plexiglass, but after buffing I realized how easy it was. I’m going to try and go after the oil stains tomorrow.


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Huge improvements made! Nice work. Good for another 5-7 kts of cruise speed too!! (Just kiddin but you are reducing parasitic drag a bit).

I've also wondered if certain LSP's help inhibit light icing.
 
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