Am I applying Poly-Seal wrong??

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alamoautodetail

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I know you guys probably saw the title and were like huhhh?? Anyway Ill get right to it.. I had a customers vehicle today.. an 02 Mazda Protege he was selling due to his son getting a DWI and needed to sell it since his son wont be driving ofr a year... anyway, he did the full interior detail, and engine.. but didnt really want to spend much to bring out paint.. so all I did was used the Optimum rinsless wash on it.. did great love that stuff.. and then used the poli-seal all-in-one with a black finishing lake country.. i did the whole car.. then took off with moist cobra mf sprayed with quick detailer. It just didnt bring out a gloss like i expected.. this was my first time using it and im hoping i did it correctly. I know with the poli-seal a little goes a long way. i would put a nickle size for hood, a dime size for roof, a dime for driver, rear, and passenger, then worked it in at speed 3 until it evaporated. Am i missing something?? thanks guys
 
First thing I would suggest is moving up to a white, green, or even orange pad.

Next, prime your pad with 5 pea-sized dots of PS. Work over a small area on speed 5. Even though it disappears into the paint right away, keep working it like you would a normal polish. As long as your pad is still gliding over the paint, PS is still working. After you have worked it into the paint, buff off whatever remaining residue. Theoretically, there shouldn't be hardly any residue, if any. If there is, you are using too much product. Move onto the next area and this time all you need are 2 pea-sized dots of PS on your pad. This is all you should need for each new section of the car.

PS goes a long way so most "problems" people have are because they use too much product. From your description, you probably didn't work it on the paint long enough and I'd suggest bumping up the speed, and moving to a polishing or light cutting pad.

Good luck.
 
Good advice Mike...I concur. To the OP: are you using Polyseal from Sonny's carwash catalog or Poli-seal from Optimum?
 
i like a white 5.5 pad with Poli-seal and instead of buffing off with QD, I use a QD towel with 1-2 spritz of OCW, then a final walk around with light application of OID.
 
I use a white pad (will try the geen when I get some) and remove using a plush MF towel and OCW.
 
mshu7 said:
First thing I would suggest is moving up to a white, green, or even orange pad.

Next, prime your pad with 5 pea-sized dots of PS. Work over a small area on speed 5. Even though it disappears into the paint right away, keep working it like you would a normal polish. As long as your pad is still gliding over the paint, PS is still working. After you have worked it into the paint, buff off whatever remaining residue. Theoretically, there shouldn't be hardly any residue, if any. If there is, you are using too much product. Move onto the next area and this time all you need are 2 pea-sized dots of PS on your pad. This is all you should need for each new section of the car.

PS goes a long way so most "problems" people have are because they use too much product. From your description, you probably didn't work it on the paint long enough and I'd suggest bumping up the speed, and moving to a polishing or light cutting pad.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

So move up to a pad with "cut".. I wasnt doing any correction at all but rather trying to give it a nice gloss with protection. I thought seeing is its multi-properties with being able to polish and seal.. wouldlnt moving up to a pad with more cutting abilities do away with its sealant capabilities?
 
Using a finishing pad like a white LC pad will not effect the sealant capabilities. Im not sure how well or how long Opt PS protects by itself. I always top it with atleast OCW.
 
As sal said, the pad shouldn't effect the sealant capabilities. I would at least step up to a green or white pad to give yourself a little bit of mechanical correction.

I've not had any problems with lack of gloss when using PS on a green LC pad or yellow Meg's pad.
 
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