Hi All,
I love detailing my car -- it's the sort of escape work that takes me away from everyday life. I've been into it since about 2003. I've tried all sorts of products, techniques, fads and trends. I'm not great at it, but I enjoy it, and the finished product looks OKAY.
I recently did a periodic "full" detail on my 2002 325Ci. It has 103k mostly highway miles. From 5 feet away, it looks great. Up close, my OCD shows me all of the defects.
I'd like to share my process/products and get whatever feedback you might have. I don't have process pictures. I'll list the steps and explain the difficulties I found.
1. Wash -- two bucket, wool mitt, Mr. Pink and some simple green degreaser.
2. Spray with Sonax Fallout Cleaner -- on a blue car I did not note any changing color of the material at all. Left it on for over 5 minutes.
3. Rinse off
4. Clay (don't remember what clay it is -- it's blue) using Adams Quick Detailer as lubrication. The clay was rubbing off on the paint and then not picking itself up. Had to go over those spots with a cloth towel and degreaser to remove the left clay.
5. Dr. Colorchip for the speckled front/chips from highway driving.
6. Using a PC 7424 and 4 inch pads, apply M105. I used LC white and orange depending on the state of the paint with swirls/scratches. This step did NOT remove hairline scratches in my clearcoat that have been there for a long time since the previous owner used the california water blade to dry the car. These scratches will catch a nail, so I don't think I can tackle them with a PC. I do the best I can with it. M105 dusted terribly, which I'm used to. I think I can use advice on cleaning the pad in between passes (I don't do this). To polish I put the product on the pad (dots), then press onto surface. I spread at speed 3, then work on speed 6. No real pressure on machine, moving slowly until the product breaks down.
7. With the PC and 4 inch LC black pads, apply M205. This is a dream to work with compared to M105.
At this point I left it overnight in my garage and came back to it in the AM.
Upon inspection in the AM under the sunlight, I noticed extremely fine swirls all over the paint. I was confused. They were so fine it almost looked like streaking/oils smearing on the paint. They could only be seen at certain angles of sunlight. I tested a section by going back over it with M205 with a blue LC pad. It improved, but it seemed like when I wiped the product off I immediately introduced new swirls/hazes. I thought maybe I was using dirty MF towels, but they were brand new. At this point I wasn't prepared to re-polish the entire car, so I washed again to get rid of all of the M105 dust.
8. Apply LSP -- Sonax Liquid Wax by hand. Oddly, this step seemed to fill in/cover the very fine swirls/hazing. Besides the scratches I can't fix or the chips I missed, the clearcoat looks really clear. I'm wondering if Sonax Liquid Wax is "forgiving" in this way? Did it cover up my lack of skill? I might be applying this product incorrectly -- it's very difficult to get the high spots out.
Did everything else, too, at different stages -- cleaned tires with simple green, wheels with sonax wheel cleaner. Wheel wells with simple green then 303 Aerospace. Dressed tires with poor boys bright and bold gel. Applied Sonax brilliant detailer to the wheels. Cleaned the black trim with Einzett anti-insekt and also degreaser, then dressed with Black Wow. Cleaned glass with invisible glass. Interior is fine for now -- will apply leatherique in a few weeks.
So, some remaining questions:
- how do I avoid the swirls after polishing?
- did my LSP cover them, or were they not swirls?
- can you layer Sonax Liquid Wax?
- is it time to get with the times and move to a different polisher/pad/product combo?
Here are some finished shots:
Thanks for any help/suggestions. Oh, I am not going to be someone who applies a coating. I like the fact that my LSPs only last so long since I don't get the surface to be completely perfect before applying.
mb
I love detailing my car -- it's the sort of escape work that takes me away from everyday life. I've been into it since about 2003. I've tried all sorts of products, techniques, fads and trends. I'm not great at it, but I enjoy it, and the finished product looks OKAY.
I recently did a periodic "full" detail on my 2002 325Ci. It has 103k mostly highway miles. From 5 feet away, it looks great. Up close, my OCD shows me all of the defects.
I'd like to share my process/products and get whatever feedback you might have. I don't have process pictures. I'll list the steps and explain the difficulties I found.
1. Wash -- two bucket, wool mitt, Mr. Pink and some simple green degreaser.
2. Spray with Sonax Fallout Cleaner -- on a blue car I did not note any changing color of the material at all. Left it on for over 5 minutes.
3. Rinse off
4. Clay (don't remember what clay it is -- it's blue) using Adams Quick Detailer as lubrication. The clay was rubbing off on the paint and then not picking itself up. Had to go over those spots with a cloth towel and degreaser to remove the left clay.
5. Dr. Colorchip for the speckled front/chips from highway driving.
6. Using a PC 7424 and 4 inch pads, apply M105. I used LC white and orange depending on the state of the paint with swirls/scratches. This step did NOT remove hairline scratches in my clearcoat that have been there for a long time since the previous owner used the california water blade to dry the car. These scratches will catch a nail, so I don't think I can tackle them with a PC. I do the best I can with it. M105 dusted terribly, which I'm used to. I think I can use advice on cleaning the pad in between passes (I don't do this). To polish I put the product on the pad (dots), then press onto surface. I spread at speed 3, then work on speed 6. No real pressure on machine, moving slowly until the product breaks down.
7. With the PC and 4 inch LC black pads, apply M205. This is a dream to work with compared to M105.
At this point I left it overnight in my garage and came back to it in the AM.
Upon inspection in the AM under the sunlight, I noticed extremely fine swirls all over the paint. I was confused. They were so fine it almost looked like streaking/oils smearing on the paint. They could only be seen at certain angles of sunlight. I tested a section by going back over it with M205 with a blue LC pad. It improved, but it seemed like when I wiped the product off I immediately introduced new swirls/hazes. I thought maybe I was using dirty MF towels, but they were brand new. At this point I wasn't prepared to re-polish the entire car, so I washed again to get rid of all of the M105 dust.
8. Apply LSP -- Sonax Liquid Wax by hand. Oddly, this step seemed to fill in/cover the very fine swirls/hazing. Besides the scratches I can't fix or the chips I missed, the clearcoat looks really clear. I'm wondering if Sonax Liquid Wax is "forgiving" in this way? Did it cover up my lack of skill? I might be applying this product incorrectly -- it's very difficult to get the high spots out.
Did everything else, too, at different stages -- cleaned tires with simple green, wheels with sonax wheel cleaner. Wheel wells with simple green then 303 Aerospace. Dressed tires with poor boys bright and bold gel. Applied Sonax brilliant detailer to the wheels. Cleaned the black trim with Einzett anti-insekt and also degreaser, then dressed with Black Wow. Cleaned glass with invisible glass. Interior is fine for now -- will apply leatherique in a few weeks.
So, some remaining questions:
- how do I avoid the swirls after polishing?
- did my LSP cover them, or were they not swirls?
- can you layer Sonax Liquid Wax?
- is it time to get with the times and move to a different polisher/pad/product combo?
Here are some finished shots:
Thanks for any help/suggestions. Oh, I am not going to be someone who applies a coating. I like the fact that my LSPs only last so long since I don't get the surface to be completely perfect before applying.
mb
