Amount of time before buff off of wdgps3.0

unclestu

New member
Joined
Jun 13, 2009
Messages
483
Reaction score
0
Feed back please


I believe that the amount of time you must leave the wdgps on the car before you wipe it off is 45 minutes. Would there be any benefit to letting the product stay on the car for a longer period of time?

Also after the sealant has cured for at least 12 hours per coat and you than want to top it with a couple of coats of Fuzion how long do you wait between coats of the Fuzion?

Thanks :buffing:
 
Feed back please


I believe that the amount of time you must leave the wdgps on the car before you wipe it off is 45 minutes. Would there be any benefit to letting the product stay on the car for a longer period of time?

Also after the sealant has cured for at least 12 hours per coat and you than want to top it with a couple of coats of Fuzion how long do you wait between coats of the Fuzion?

Thanks :buffing:

I have always left the sealant on for longer than an hour before removing Stu. As far as seeing a difference , no I haven't. The rule of thumb is to let a nuba cure for 24 hours before adding a second coat.
 
Why would you apply anything in the sun?

Some of us that operate mobile may not have access to a garage/car-port/shade tree on certain jobs. Sometimes all we have to work with is the area that the customer provides us.

Regardless though, I have a 20x20 portable canopy, so the only thing I really do in the sun is wash (drying done under the canopy)
 
I let it sit at least 45 mins and if passes the swipe test I buff it out.
 
I have always left the sealant on for longer than an hour before removing Stu. As far as seeing a difference , no I haven't. The rule of thumb is to let a nuba cure for 24 hours before adding a second coat.


Thanks for your feedback Dana and everyone else who replied to the question.

Dana or anyone else with a thought on this question,
Is it better to apply the Fuzion by hand or with my Flex 3401? I know that you must use only a thin coat and I was wondering if using the Flex will enable you to apply a thin coat more evenly.
 

Is it better to apply the Fuzion by hand or with my Flex 3401? I know that you must use only a thin coat and I was wondering if using the Flex will enable you to apply a thin coat more evenly.

I would apply by hand.. One panel at a time, then remove.
 
I would apply by hand.. One panel at a time, then remove.
:iagree:Fuzion is so easy to apply by hand. It would take longer to use the flex, and you would waste a lot of product. Most people use the wipe-on wipe-off method. I apply it to the whole car, then let it sit for 45 minutes before removing it.
 
:iagree:Fuzion is so easy to apply by hand. It would take longer to use the flex, and you would waste a lot of product. Most people use the wipe-on wipe-off method. I apply it to the whole car, then let it sit for 45 minutes before removing it.

Thanks Loudog and Ed.
So you say you leave the Fuzion on for a good 45 min. (as I did with the wdgps). In 45 minutes will the Fuzion have dried to a haze by than or will it still be wet?
 
Thanks Loudog and Ed.
So you say you leave the Fuzion on for a good 45 min. (as I did with the wdgps). In 45 minutes will the Fuzion have dried to a haze by than or will it still be wet?
It would be dry. I started doing this after I read a thread on a different forum. A guy tested in a lab how many coats you can actually apply. In his testing he came across that the 2 waffers with cure times(one I think 20 min, the other with I think 45 min), had thicker coats than the one with the wipe-on wipe-off method. I'd post the thread but I can't.
 
It would be dry. I started doing this after I read a thread on a different forum. A guy tested in a lab how many coats you can actually apply. In his testing he came across that the 2 waffers with cure times(one I think 20 min, the other with I think 45 min), had thicker coats than the one with the wipe-on wipe-off method. I'd post the thread but I can't.

Wow this information comes in really handy as I am going to apply the Fuzion tomorrow. i guess instead of a wowo it is going to be a WODWO (wipe on dry wipe off)

Thanks again Loudog:dblthumb2:
 
Stu, I apply all my lsp's by hand. Not a big fan of applying wax or a sealant by machine. One reason being if something gets on the applicator you will feel it and fix it quicker than being used with a machine.
 
I believe that the amount of time you must leave the wdgps on the car before you wipe it off is 45 minutes.

Instructions are posted towards the bottom of this page, see step 4.

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant delivers a deep, wet, liquid shimmer unlike anything you can imagine.

Recommendation is for 30 to 45 minutes, actually it's let the product dry to a haze before removing with the key word being dry. The goal is to apply a thin coat and if a thin coat is applied then in moderate climates the sealant will dry to haze in 30 to 45 minutes. You could probably use the Swipe Test for this particular paint sealant to test if the wax is fully dry before removing.


Stu, I apply all my lsp's by hand. Not a big fan of applying wax or a sealant by machine.

This just goes to show how much detailing is personal preference. I'm just the opposite of Dana in that ANYTHING i can apply by machine I do apply by machine.

When it comes to finishing waxes and paint sealants I prefer a DA Polisher with a 6" or smaller foam finishing pad on the 3.0 to 4.0 speed setting. I never use a rotary to apply a finishing wax or paint sealant and while you can use a Flex 3401 to apply a wax or paint sealant, if both tools were in front of me I would choose the DA Polisher just because it's easier to use with one hand for both vertical and horizontal panels.

Again, this is just my personal opinion, a flat, uniform surface with equal pressure over the entire surface, oscillating at the 3.0 to 4.0 speed setting a tools like the PC 7424XP, GROP, or G110 will do a better job of applying an even coating than your hand pushing down on a wax applicator pad.

Dana has a good point about something, or more specifically, any kind of abrasive particle entering into the waxing or sealing process, but from experience, if you're working clean in the first place then by the time you get to applying your LSP the risk is somewhat nominal as long as you're working undercover, (not outside in the wind).

Just my personal preference.

:)
 
Thanks everyone for your valuable input. I applied the first coat of Fuzion today by hand and let it sit for about 45 minutes until it dried to a nice haze. It buffed off nicely and I will be doing a final coat tomorrow.
As my car has so many curves and small panels I felt that it would be easier to apply the Fuzion by hand, and there is definitely something to be said about rubbing your hands over all of those curves. LOL:buffing:
 
Back
Top