Another coating high spot question

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jdgamble

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Hey guys,

I found some threads on this, but many different answers. I just coated my ride with Wolfgang PROFI, and I have some high spots. Two of them I tried to fix, but I didn't get it right.

Is there a good method to polish only a specific area and reapply? Or do I need to do the whole panels? The worst offender is the rear bumper, which is the trickiest part.

If I mask off the area, polish, then reapply with some overlap, should I be able to clean this up?

On a brighter note, there's this:

Thanks all

John
 
I’ve never been able to blend it well, always had to polish and coat the entire panel again to achieve satisfactory results.
 
Yeah same here usually whole panel. If you have enough left I would try to spot blend it. Maybe your coating will react differently.

If it doesn’t look right then redo whole panel.


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Location of the high spot and the color of the paint have a lot to do with how easily you can correct the spot.

I found on dark colors in a highly visible spot like a door, hood or roof, it took a re-do of the whole panel to make it look right. On an area like the front facia, rocker panels or rear bumpers with a light color you might be able to spot correct.
 
It's yellow and apparently very forgiving, cuz I kinda blew it. I will probably try the easy approach first.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
jdgamble said:
Hey guys,

I found some threads on this, but many different answers. I just coated my ride with Wolfgang PROFI, and I have some high spots. Two of them I tried to fix, but I didn't get it right.

Is there a good method to polish only a specific area and reapply? Or do I need to do the whole panels? The worst offender is the rear bumper, which is the trickiest part.

If I mask off the area, polish, then reapply with some overlap, should I be able to clean this up?

On a brighter note, there's this:

Thanks all

John
Click to expand...

Did you use too much product .... what caused the high spots ?!

Or you left the product for too long before wiping it off ?


.
 
If it’s up to five hours later that I see the spot I can dab some coating on my applicator and basically polish it out.

If it’s the next morning that’s when trouble starts.


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Danube said:
Did you use too much product .... what caused the high spots ?!

Or you left the product for too long before wiping it off ?


.
Click to expand...

It flashed super quick on the bumper, and I felt like I had been wiping too hard and removing too much coating previously. So I probably didn’t wipe those spots hard enough. I may have used too much too. On one section, I applied a second time because I felt like it came off too easy.

It was my first time coating, so learning experience. Honestly 99% of the population would never notice. But I’m in the 1%, as we all are. Haha.

Car looks pretty good. But really no better than PNS+sovereign.


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jdgamble said:
Car looks pretty good. But really no better than PNS+sovereign.
Click to expand...


I take - it the difference between a top shelf wax and ceramic coating is mostly in durability of the protection, not the way it looks (as if something can look better than 2 layers of 845 .. in my view at least .. :D )
 
One main difference is that ceramic coating isn’t coming off. You can strip wax relatively easy.


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Danube said:
I take - it the difference between a top shelf wax and ceramic coating is mostly in durability of the protection, not the way it looks (as if something can look better than 2 layers of 845 .. in my view at least .. :D )
Click to expand...

Coatings = long-term good looks, ease of maintenance, increased protection from environmental & chemical contamination/incidents.

Useful attributes when you’re a lazy guy w a black car that’s a PITA to wash


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Danube said:
I take - it the difference between a top shelf wax and ceramic coating is mostly in durability of the protection, not the way it looks (as if something can look better than 2 layers of 845 .. in my view at least .. :D )
Click to expand...
Coating looks way different thatn a wax.

One of my forman at work has asked me mulitple times about how i keep the buick looking so good all the time even when its dirty. He asks if i wash it every day haha. I say nope just once a week. He says hes never seen a black car with paint that good, thats not all swirled out. Mind you this guy used to paint cars when he was younger.

He says "the paint looks so wet, and reflective, is that cuz of that ceramic coating stuff you use?"

I just laugh and say yes, that is part of it.

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So I actually fixed part of it I think.

I used some Griots Perfecting Cream on a light polishing pad and ran over one of the problem areas at low speed.

Then I cleaned it up with some prep and reapplied coating. I buffed it off pretty much right when I saw the rainbow effect… so didn’t let it stay on there long at all.

It actually looks better than the adjacent area, which basically means I didn’t do a great job on the bumper. I may do something similar for the rest of the bumper.

Either way, glad I was able to improve the situation.

Out of curiosity, for those who have had to completely remove a coating like PROFI, how much polishing is required? I suspect I did not remove all of the coating. Just curious how much work it would be to remove completely.


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I had to repair spots on a customers roof once and I had to use a wool pad on a flex 3401 to get through it.


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Eric7810 said:
I had to repair spots on a customers roof once and I had to use a wool pad on a flex 3401 to get through it.


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Click to expand...

So based on that, I probably just smoothed it out huh? I guess we’ll find out eventually. Haha.


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Depends on the coating. I removed a CanCoat Evo high spot yesterday with Duragloss 501 and then reapplied.

I had a couple of high spots of GTeq + EXO that required 3" pad and rotary to remove. Then reapplied just those spots.

I've never repolished an entire panel to get a high spot or 2.

And I've learned how important substantial lighting serves during application.
 
Paul A. said:
Depends on the coating. I removed a CanCoat Evo high spot yesterday with Duragloss 501 and then reapplied.

I had a couple of high spots of GTeq + EXO that required 3" pad and rotary to remove. Then reapplied just those spots.

I've never repolished an entire panel to get a high spot or 2.

And I've learned how important substantial lighting serves during application.
Click to expand...

Do you have a lighting rec? Like a scangrip or something? I have fluorescent lighting plus a big LED bar but I think my iphone flashlight is the best… either that or catch some natural light through my garage door.


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I have a DIY LED light bar i made from a post on here some years ago. I love it when correcting and especially for applying coatings. And it was fairly inexpensive.

For finding high spots a day or two later i use my Flex swirl finder but, yes, sometimes my phone flashlight. My technique is to turn off all the lights in my garage and walk around the vehicle with only my handheld light.
 
Paul A. said:
My technique is to turn off all the lights in my garage and walk around the vehicle with only my handheld light.
Click to expand...

I do this too. My wife thinks I'm crazy. My garage has translucent window cutouts, so my neighbors probably think the same. Haha.
 
My lighting technique, whether I'm hunting high spots or simply doing an application, is do make it as diffused and indirect as possible.

The roof in my garage is actually painted, but I've been successfull with this approach in a garage with just bare sheetrock too. The LED work light stand I use has the ability to rotate the lights, so I will point both of them at the ceiling and then work by the light reflected down on to the car. This makes rainbow flashing and high spots really pop and easy to see.

I fell into this technique when trying to improve my working conditions. One thing I had found in the past, was when looking at paint in my normal overhead lighting, or even outdoors on a bright sunny day, I wouldn't see any high spots. However, on a cloudy/overcast day, dawn/dusk, or in the indirect lighting of a parking lot I'd find them all over the place. This drove me to try and duplicate those lighting conditions. Giving the light a high level of diffusion by reflecting it off walls or the ceiling seemed to do the trick.
 
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