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mpcross

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Hi All, I bought a new truck,and decide that I wanted to do the best I could to do the very best for protecting the finish of the paint/clearcoat. I have found a few products that I feel protect and enhance he shine of the new paint and do it by hand.

I have not as of yet bought a buffer/polisher or any pads etc. but at some time I know i will need to do that if I want a true deep, wet,high quality protected paint/cler surface.

Here is my question and the reasons for it. Are there any "novice ready" charts that show the buffer/polisher model,pads to use for different products and what NOT to use combinations. I am sure you get what I mean.

I currently ASSUME I know this, with clean clearcoat and no stains,one does not need to clay the surface and most likley one would not need to Polish the finish either. So that leaves polymer or wax or both.

As I understand it,under thoses conditions,one should wash with a quality auto soap,rinse and then dry to prevent spots,check surface for contaminations one could feel,if none are present then a clay/polish would not be required and if one would want a coat of poly product could be applied and allow around 6 to 8 hours for it to bond and then wax can be applied over the polymer in a coat or multi coats. It is referenced on one site as a fire and ice application.

Although all can be done by hand it appears to me,from pictures i have seen on the internet that the true depth and wet look can only be accompished with mecanical help.

I would Like to see if there are recommended charts that a novice could access to hit most equipment/pads and then the recomended products to use with them and again what NOT to use.

As a last question since I have read about paint hardness how can I find out even in general how hard or soft the paint on my truck is? It is a 09 GMC Black Onyx with clearcoat, Denali?

If I am so off base with my above novice statments,please feel free to advise before I go down the road to improving the look of my paint finish.

Thanks to all with any input. MPC
 
First off, welcome to the forum! :welcome:

mpcross said:
I currently ASSUME I know this, with clean clearcoat and no stains,one does not need to clay the surface and most likley one would not need to Polish the finish either. So that leaves polymer or wax or both.
Click to expand...

Actually, most (if not all) new vehicles could use a good clay. Most vehicles are shipped by rail and then truck, so they can pick up a lot of junk that can only be cleaned by claying.

mpcross said:
I would Like to see if there are recommended charts that a novice could access to hit most equipment/pads and then the recomended products to use with them and again what NOT to use.
Click to expand...

There are some very good charts out there that you can search for on the AutoGeek Forum. However, my suggestion is to shop a bit then post what your budget is as well as what you would like to accomplish.

You will find that many forum members are happy to post their opinions on what you should buy/use.


mpcross said:
As a last question since I have read about paint hardness how can I find out even in general how hard or soft the paint on my truck is? It is a 09 GMC Black Onyx with clearcoat, Denali?
Click to expand...

I don't have a GMC, but from what I learned you are just dealing in generalities until you do an actual test spot on your own vehicle. I am sure that some folks who own GMC's or have worked on them will chime in and give their overall impression on the paint used on 2009.

Black is usually the most difficult to avoid swirls, but it does give a stunning finish when the 5 step process is completed.

Take the time and browse the forums, especially some of the how-to's as well as the videos and I think some of your questions will be answered.
 
Let me start by saying - mchess1 gave you good solid sound advice on all points. Here's just another .$02. Also - welcome to Autogeek Online.
mpcross said:
Here is my question and the reasons for it. Are there any "novice ready" charts that show the buffer/polisher model,pads to use for different products and what NOT to use combinations. I am sure you get what I mean.
Click to expand...

Here's a few things to help you:
Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides
Autogeekonline Auto Detailing Forum - Charts
The most popular pads are probably the Lake Country CCS pads.

The most popular entry level polisher is the Porter Cable 7424XP (often referred to as a PC or PC7424XP or XP).

There are several other popular models, and like was previously mentioned - establishing exactly what you are going for will cause others to chime in and give advice.

mpcross said:
I currently ASSUME I know this, with clean clearcoat and no stains,one does not need to clay the surface and most likley one would not need to Polish the finish either. So that leaves polymer or wax or both.
Click to expand...
Again, sound advice from mchess1. If you feel that there is little to no contamination, you may want to go with a very mild clay such as the Pinnacle Ultra-Poly clay. This clay will get contaminants, but is very easy on the surface. More aggressive clay will get more contaminants, but you also risk marring. You can always do what is called the baggy test to see if you need claying.

Put your fingertips in a plastic Ziploc style baggy, and wipe across the surface lightly with your fingertips. If you feel bumps, then you need clay.

mpcross said:
As I understand it,under thoses conditions,one should wash with a quality auto soap,rinse and then dry to prevent spots,check surface for contaminations one could feel,if none are present then a clay/polish would not be required and if one would want a coat of poly product could be applied and allow around 6 to 8 hours for it to bond and then wax can be applied over the polymer in a coat or multi coats. It is referenced on one site as a fire and ice application.
Click to expand...
You will not have to clay every time you clean your new truck (congrats BTW). So claying and polishing will not always be necessary. Sad thing is that most vehicles leave the lot with some swirls already on them. To start off right, you would want to get rid of these, then protect and keep a good wash routine.
You are correct in needing a good soap (almost any reputable auto soap will be fine). Also using 2 buckets to wash will help reduce swirls (1 rinse bucket, 1 soap bucket). You are correct on your understanding for follow up of the wash. The fire and ice is a brand specific application (Blackfire). The whole idea is just applying a carnuba on top of a sealer. There are several variants of this, and it is quite popular.


mpcross said:
Although all can be done by hand it appears to me,from pictures i have seen on the internet that the true depth and wet look can only be accompished with mecanical help.
Click to expand...
I know you posted this in Mike's section - but I am going to help a brother out. He's a busy fella.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...asked-questions/20257-man-versus-machine.html

mpcross said:
I would Like to see if there are recommended charts that a novice could access to hit most equipment/pads and then the recomended products to use with them and again what NOT to use.
Click to expand...
See above pad and compound charts.

mpcross said:
As a last question since I have read about paint hardness how can I find out even in general how hard or soft the paint on my truck is? It is a 09 GMC Black Onyx with clearcoat, Denali?
Click to expand...
Indeed a test spot is the safest way to find out. I will tell you the following first hand though. I work with a guy who has almost the exact same truck as you, and he has ran it through the automatic car wash several times. On a sunny day, it is a mural of swirls. Yes, it is black. So whatever that is worth. Know that the black will easily accept swirls should you decide to install that option. :D Also, working on a few of these trucks (never a black on though) I have found them like most GM products to have a relatively hard clear coat.

Remember - always start with the least aggressive approach and ramp up from there, not vice-versa.

Can't you just hear the Mike Phillips coming out in that post? :D

DLB
 
Last edited:
mpcross said:
I have not as of yet bought a buffer/polisher or any pads etc. but at some time I know i will need to do that if I want a true deep, wet,high quality protected paint/cler surface.
Click to expand...


The primary advantage a machine will provide over working by hand is when it comes to removing "Below Surface Defects" and the reason for this is because modern paints are hard enough that removing defects, which is "leveling" the paint, which is "removing small particles of paint in a controlled manner", is pretty hard to do by hand and much faster and easier to do by machine.

In fact I'll go as far as to say it requires a LOT more skill and knowledge to remove defects by hand than it does to remove defects by machine because with most machines you can pretty much follow a few basic principals, turn the machine on and just guide it around a panel and you can't help but remove swirls.

When working by hand you have to use the right technique, the right pad, and do everything thing just the right way or you either won't remove any swirls and in a worse case scenario simply add more new swirls.

See these articles, especially the second one...

What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats
The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints
Fingermarks


:)
 
Thanks to all who responded and gave the the specific articles to review. MPC
 
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